Ok.. was out in the car when noticed is problem with my front bumper Passenger turn signal not working (rhd car) Swapped the bulb over for a known working unit and still no joy! Checked all fuses and seem ok! Was going to remove the light unit but how does it come out? with the spotlight or not? What would you test? Any idea's? Thanks all!
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago with my 308. I bought some electrical contact spray cleaner from Radio Shack and sprayed it where the turn signal stalk, goes into the switch (no disassembly required) and just worked the stalk back and forth from left signals to right a few times and its worked great ever since.
MMMMM... Just spent the last 15 mins in the garage with wd40 trying to clean the contacts.. still no flashing light!
I had a similiar problem. It turned out to be a bad ground. Meter the voltage to a good body ground & see if you have power (with the light set to blink of course)
** I Don't use wd-40 as a contact cleaner, it leaves a film of oil. Electrical contact cleaner is different.
Don't neglect the HAZARD switch. All turn signal wiring goes through that switch and since it doesn't get exercised, it's contacts do go bonkers as well.
Sometimes the contacts inside the socket get pushed down and don't make contact to the bulb,also Iuse electrical contact cleaner and use white lithium grease in the socket.Best of luck!
On my 81 GTSi I had the same problem, and went through the same sequence that you have. Here is what I found. Take the lense off, and the bulbs out. Using a VOM, check the continuity between the metal parts of the 2 sockets. This is to check to see if both sockets are grounded together, and you should read "0" resistance. If you don't, then proceed to remove the unit from the bumper. On one side of the light unit, there is a silver metal strip, this is the keeper for the unit. There is a stud welded to the strip that goes thru the unit with a 9mm nut beghind the bumper, a deep well 1/4" drive with extension works well for this. Once the nut is off, the unit comes right out. Unplug the socket and inspect the connections. There may be corrosion on the connectors. Steel wool on the end of a small screw driver works well to clean the male parts, then recycle the connector a few times will re-establish connection. Looking at the back of the light unit look for a rubber boot that fits over the end where the wires go into the unit. If this boot has been left off, water is allowed to enter the socket and cause corrosion. Look for a braided copper wire that goes between the connector and one of the sockets, and then to the other socket. This is the common ground between the 2 bulbs and goes back to system ground. Using the VOM check the resistance between the braided copper wire and the metal part of the lite socket. If there is resistance, there will be a voltage drop that can cause the bulb not to get the current that it needs to operate. What happens is that when the light unit was assembled, the braided copper wire was simply laid between the plastic and the metal socket and riveted together, depending on the pressure to establish the connection. When moisture is introduced that connection will corrode, and fail. The fix is to solder a small wire to the braided copper wire and the metal light socket, which will re-establish the ground and will fix the problem, if it was a corrosion problem at the socket. I hope this helps. Rob Another breakthrough in electronic desgin by Ferrari.
Rob... Thank you very much for taking the time to write a very good set of instructions, This is very helpful for a none "electrical" person like myself!!!! But someone who would get great satisfaction out of doing the fix them selves! I will crack on this evening! Cheers!