I was looking under my 348 the weekend, and I can not see the correct way of adjusting the rear camber? Is is spacers or an excenter nut? Anyone know, please do tell
OK. So remove spacers the DEcrease the negative camber. Does anybody have a picture that shows this in detail, I cant remeber how it looks right now
Yep, removing shims will give you negative camber. Increasing shims will give you positive camber. I dont have any pics sorry mate. There are shims from on the top and bottom wishbones that bolt the wheel/hub to the engine cradle. Loosen the nuts on the back and slip the shims out to get more negative camber or add shims to get more positive camber. It is best done by a professional or someone who knows how to setup suspension properly. You may affect the cars handling and tyre wear if you dont remove the right amount of shims etc..etc..
This page is from the 355 manual but the adjustment location is the same as the 348 If you need more specific info let me know Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi, By chance, does the manual give maximum values we can get with original camber plates and bushing ? As these the same on both cars? Does the 348 have assisted direction? Thanks ! -Luc
You can get at least -3.5 degrees back there and you can get about +0.75 degrees if you are so foolish as to go in this direction. You will need more shims to get -3.5. However, this kind of suspension is setup not by camber but by ride height. Camber is one of the later stages of fine tuning, and not the big ticket item like on a Vette or Mustang.
I don't know how American cars are setup, never had a vette nor a mustang. My father was Italian and my mother half German so you can guess how I feel about cars ! -3.5 is a pretty aggressive setup on a multi-link suspension indeed; However I don't know how the 355 handles with that but these numbers don't seem extremal for track (my Porsche/BMW/Alfa experience). I will learn if the 355 is the Ferrari I buy... Thanks
i had -4.5 camber set-up on the rear on my mid-engine race car. so how does it work? jason plato won the uk championship running with that spec. ive since taken a little out since im no plato behind the wheel. im not suggesting you should or shouldnt go -3.5 on your F-car but it all depends on what your trying to achieve.
Question... When I got my car, the rears looked splayed out (like a loaded VW bug). being concerned about abnormal tire wear, and knowing it didn't "look" right, I pulled the same number of spacers all the way around the rears, as per the manual, and although it decreased the squatted look, it's still far from straight up and down using a builders level placed vertically on the tires, which unscientifically would, I'm assuming, be 0 degrees. The car is not (to my knowledge lowered) so how would I go about getting the camber closer? Is that where a ride height adjustment comes into play? If so, I'm assuming that adjustment is in the service manual? Or is this a case where I need to take it to some one who knows what they are doing? I would think I could get pretty close with a "good" angle indicator.
The factory spec is -2.0 ± 0.2. But you ask for how much you COULD dial in, not what you SHOULD dial in--which is tire, application, spring+shock, and driver-preference dependent. AND it is NOT a multi-link. There is an upper A-Arm, there is a lower A-Arm. There is not even a link to adjust toe-in, its done with the very same shims that set camber.
Just put some 315/30/18s on the rear of my 348 and wondering if I should take some camber out for better handling. I'm at stock now, but I seem to have no contact patch on the outer 2" of the tire. (11.5" wheels) Whaddyathink?
Depends on what is on the front, what are the ride heights, and what the current camber and toe setting are.
Oh I see. I'm a bit disappointed there. Just took a look at the pics on other topics and I see how it's made now. Surprisingly it's exactly the same than 348 right? Damned. This 355 is not so great ! Goth... you lied to me ?!
After thinking about this overnight, I have another actual question. Were these tires put on the original rim width or on wider rims? It actually changes whether to add or subtract camber. If these 12" tires were placed on the 10" rims, the the sidewalls are facing outward (trapezoid). If they are placed on proper 12" rims thn the sidewalls are straight (rectangular). This completely changes how the side wall reacts to camber and body roll. It also maters what is on the front (Which you have not said).
Its the same as the F348 Specialè adn later F348s. Its different than the early F348s as the upper control arm pivot point was 0.7" higher than it currently is. Wheels are 18" rather than 17"
original tires: 215/50ZR17 F 8.46" wide 4.23" sidewall 25.46" rolling diameter 255/45ZR17 R 10.0" wide 4.52" sidewall 26.01" rolling diameter 1.186X R/F New tires: 265/35ZR18 F 10.4" wide 3.65" sidewall 25.30" rolling diameter 315/30ZR18 R 12.4" wide 3.72" sidewall 25.44" rolling diameter 1.188X R/F The ratio of front contact width to rear contact width is just fine (1.186 versus 1.188) This means you will have the same overal balance under brakes or cornering front to rear (assuming the temperature come up into the working range). Rolling diameter at the rear is a little on the low side. You have lost 0.58" at the front, and 0.80" at the rear. You should raise the rear ride height by 0.5"-0.6" and start here. This willl put the roll axis back where it should be (where the car was originally balanced with the springs and roll bars). If you have ever dragged the nose, you should consider raising the front by 0.58" and the rear by 0.80" and starting there. Ferraris are notoriously low to begin with..... I, p[ersonally, do ride height adjustments on a set of scales to get the corner weighting correct.... If you have high speed instability add some caster (from 5 (factory) to 6 and you can go all the way to 7 if necessary), if you have high speed instability under brakes, raise the front and rear equally (as above). After doing the above, adjust the suspension alignment for: Camber: -0.42 ± 0.1 F and -1.68 ± 0.1 R Toe: -2.1mm F and -2.1mm R This will put the static loads into the suspension at the same force levels as with the standard tires at the standard alignment settings. You may find going back up to the factory toe setting useful at the rear (2.5mm) if the car wanders under brakes, and at the front if the pyrometer tells you the front tires are not comming up to temperature. Get the rear end to work well, and then if you want a little more oversteer raise the rear by 1 turn (or if you want a little understeer drop the rear by 1 turn). I would basically leave the camber at teh front near the factory specs--unless after optimizing the rears, you really do need some more grip in the front. The pyrometer will tell. You will have more grip than original, which will result in more body movement than before, which makes the camber setting more critical (unless more spring was added). Work up to the limits and see how the car feel near the edge before walking up to the edge and potentially over..... You have lost 15% F and 21% R of the sidewall deflection due to the 30 aspect ratio, but you would have lost more had you stayed with the original rims. The above setting for rear camber should put you pretty close to where you want. But you could try a little more or a little less (0.2) depending on your driving preferences. Don't go under -1.5 degrees or do so with great vigilance for the first several hundred miles. You can safely go up towards -2.2 with some loss in tire life due to the asymetrical contact patch loading.
