348 or F355

Hi guys,

I would like to add an F-car 2-seater to my garage
I own a Mondi Coupe but would like some more power and sportivity
I am having a difficult time to decide between the 348 and 355
I am looking for the following info:

1. Can the timing belt and bearings be changed without engine removal in the 355
I am looking at doing it myself so it is a big + if engine removal is not necessary
2. The power in the 355 seems to be high up in the rev range
As I am not looking for Highway power but more usable low rev torque on mountain roads
I have a feeling the 348 will have the advantage because the torque peak is at 4200rpm compared to 6000rpm for the 355
Does someone have a power/torque to rev diagram of both?
3. Handling
Is there a big difference between both
Of course the best thing would be to test drive the 2 cars but that takes a lot of time
Thought I'd asking you guys first

Thanks for responding

Frank

 

I've owned both; let me see if I can help.

1. No

2. The 348 does feel very torquey. It may suit you better if you say you want to stay low in the RPM range.

But, may I ask, why do you want to stay low in the RPM range? What's wrong with taking the 355 to 5,000 and keeping it in that range? I recommend you drive the two. It takes time, but can you think of a better way to spend your time?

3. I don't think there's a huge difference in the agility of the two cars. For example, the raw turning prowess is very similar. However, the 355 will handle better because of the power steering and because of the softer ride. The 348 will give you more steering feedback and a more sporting feel. On mountainous drives, I imagine the 348 will make you very tired.

Hit the <search> button on the upper left and do a search. There is a wealth of information on this topic, as it has been discussed many times before. I'd go to advanced search and look for threads titles; then type in <348 AND 355> or something similar. Good luck.

 

Excellent interpretation from someone who has experienced both.

 

Theoretically, yes; in practice, no not really you have to remove the gas tank and have minute access to the necessary components and you are better off dropping the engine--this goes for both F348 and F355.

The speed at redline in the first 5 gears is rather similar (5th = mid-160s) and the F355 has another gear. If the F348 is better in any way, here, it by the slightest of margins.

The F348 Specialé and later F348s have the same rear suspension geometry as the F355. Springs and shocks are close (excepting the electronic controls on the F355). The early F348s have a reputation for being twitchy. This can be addressed by lowering the rear end a turn or two and adding some caster up front.

 

Unfortunatly I cannot answer your question as I would like as I would be accused of causing trouble

However... with regards to the cambelt change with engine in, lots (if not most) of the Ferrari specialists in the UK do it that way now as it's a lot cheaper than taking the engine out. Not sure if they can do the Tensioners as well with the engine in.

I believe they use a special tool to do it.

The story goes that the guys who came up with this procedure (one of them being a friend of mine and who relayed the story) were preparing a 355 race car. Unfortunatly, something happened just before the car was to be picked up and raced and they needed to change the cambelt. Taking the engine out would take too long, so they came up with the idea of removing the fuel tank. they had to create a special tool ( a socket cut off/welded) to reach the bits.

 

That's the part I don't like because you are cutting into the frame of the car. In my unprofessional opinion I think it's dangerous because you have weakened the car right smack in the middle of the uni-body, and near the gas tank.

I have taken both the tank and the engine out of my 348 without the use of a lift. Having been there and done that, I would never attempt to change the belt by removing the gas tank, and no way would you ever catch me cutting the frame of the car to get to the crank bolt.

Just take out the engine. It's just a bit more work than tanking out the tank, and the proper way to do it.

That's my .05¢ worth.

 

The 348 sounds better and the non-power steering feels better and makes it better handling IMHO due to the more feedback. The 355 seems to have more expensive problems come up than the 348. I would love to have back my old 348 Spider...it was a sweet machine.

 

I had no idea that the frame had to be cut if you do this "engine-in".

Before I bought my 348, it was explained to me that due to the nature of the major service (namely the engine having to come out) that it was designed so that the engine removal is a relatively easy procedure, which if true makes perfect sense.

 

Just ben informed by a good friend of mine that you can change the Tensioners and the waterpump with the engine in.

Ernie, there's no cutting of the frame or bodywork. The tool I refer to is something like two bits of tools welded together so that you can reach the sockets etc. It's a fairly straightforward procedure, much like the 360 engine in cambelt change.

My personal preference is to take the engine out for a cambelt service every 3 years. However, if I just needed to change the cambelt or water pump, doing it engine in wouldn't really bother me.

 

I suppose if you are able and willing.....

 

Well I have seen pics of one car that had the frame cut, and know of another that had the same thing done to it.
I still say that it's just better to remove the subframe.

 

Seen those pics.

That's only done by someone who doesn't know how to do it properly. I'm suprised more owners in the US don't do it engine in. Most people here in the UK tend to do it that way.

 

IIRC that picture of the cut up crossmember was a car in the USA, and nothing to do with the UK

 

You really don't have all that much room to move inside the space for the tank. Your face is right there, and your nose just about touches the cambelt covers. Trust me I have been inside the tank space, not very much room at all.

No thanks.

I'm yanking the whole thing out.

 

If you really want to do the belts without removing the engine, maybe you should consider a 360. It has access panels behind the seats in the firewall. Early 360 coupes are about the same price as a nice 355.

 

If you can afford to buy a good F355 then this is the way to go, hands down it's a better car.

As always, get it checked out by a professional and make sure all the records are complete etc...

I drive my 355 on mountain roads and coastal roads very regularly and they perform very well, no lack of torque once you are used to the power band.....and the sound is simply stunning.

 

Here are the pics in question.

Rough ****s!
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What are you talking about???

There is PLENTY of room in there to do the job!!

Just look at this stooge jammed in there. Hand him some spanners and he will get the job done.
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Yup.

Hack job.

 

So, where is the goinometer (degreewheel) and where do you look at the dial indicator mounted so as to measure teh descent of the valve tappet to see if the new belt retains the factory timing?

 

Whats a degree wheel?

 

LOL!!! You're a funny boy Pap.

Yeah look at how much room there is to remove the crank pully. LOADS of it............not.

 

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What a stooge!

Bah, just leave the crank pulley on!

 

Where's that pic of a can that is half open stuffed with worms