I also agree. There members here that use RedLine motor oil, I recall reading it in a few threads about 6-8 months ago.
Lubro Moly have excellent product, their 5w40 full synthetic is approved for all the German manufacturers and I use it in my shop.
That's exactly what my tech used. He worked for Ferrari for 17 years and since he owns a 456 I just told him to use whatever he uses in his car. He chose the Lubro MOly for the engine and Redline for the tranny. And I am happy with the improvements in the shifting!
First, forget the SAE oil weight numbers--these are completely inadequate for choosing an oil for a Ferrari application. Viscosity counts, oil weights do not. An oil weight remains constant with temperature (straight dino juice) whereas viscosity always goes down with increasing temperature. Secondaly, application is a key aspect. Those that drive calmly and sedately to work (say 10 miles) are much better served with thinner oils that flow faster and protect sooner. Those that drive on race tracks need an oil that reamins adequate at the oil temperatures encountered. Those inbetween need to choose an oil in between. A thinner oil will flow faster at startup and protect sooner. However, no oil is actually protecting the way it shood until it gets above 170dF where the anti-wear package begins to form protection films. Thinner oils will reach operating temperatures faster (by a little). But I digress.... For a F348/F355 engine oil, you want/need something with an known HTHS number. HTHS comes into play when you are out there running the snot out of the engine--you know--like it was designed and built to do. Unfortunately RP is one of those oils that does not divuldge its HTHS numbers. I do not use oils in my Ferrari that do not divuldge the HTHS numbers. So for those of who do not run their cars on the track and never see oil temps above 260dF, an HTHS number of 3.5 is perfectly adequate. For those that do run on race tracks or see oil temps above 285dF, and HTHS number of 3.8 is desired. And for those who run the snot out of their engine in hot temps and see 300dF need an HTHS of 4.2+. Notice that the red line on the oil temp gauge and the HTHS number of Shell Helix 10W-40 is 4.2 and that the HTHS testing is done at 305dF where the oil temp redline is set. Coincidence? No! So, what do these numbers mean: Oil weight; the first number is followed by a 'W'. 'W' stands for winter the cold start condition. Due to the way modern oils are formulated, this number tells you of the base viscosity of the oil--its base stock. The second number is the operating viscosity. Ferrari engines want an operating viscisity of 10-15 centi Stokes (cSt). This is thick enough to stay in the bearings as the journals rotate and the rods flail back and forth, and thin enough for the oil pump to move enough oil to keep the engine parts cool. Very little wear actualy happens when the oil viscosity is above ~5 cSt, but lots of wear starts happening when the viscosity gets lower than ~3 cSt. Viscosity is controlled by temperature and choice of oil. There is an important property of oils. At some temperature, and at some pressure an oil of a given viscosity whill instantly change from a fluid to a solid. Thus, if you have a thick oil in the engine, start it up at -10dF and then give it a jab on the throttle, the oil film in the journal rod bearings turns into a solid that is harder than the babbet bearing, and "bad things happen". Let the oil come up to temp with as little throttle appliation as possible--then run the snot out of it. The weight that corresponds to this 10 cSt-15 cSt viscosity is -30 on the thin side and -40 on the thick side. Make no mistake, a thick -30 weight oil (greater than 10 cSt) is perfectly adequate for everything but track driving (and well chosen ones are adequate for track driving). And anything greater than 15 cSt is starting to get thick enough that more energy is going into the oil pump, but more protection is not happening at the bearings and sliding surfaces. Cruising down the road with the oil temp gauge pegged at this 175dF thermostatic lower limit has a 15 cSt oil operating near 20 cSt, and those heavy -50 weight oils near 30 cSt or at least twice as thick as the engine desires. When combined, the 0W number and the -40 number tell you that the oil was formulated brom 0W base stock and then some viscisity improver added to make the -40 number. Modern Group 1V oils can meat a 5W-30 or 15W-40 spec with no viscosity imporvers. Viscosity improvers shear out under load, allowing the oil to thin. So using as little of these as possible is best. A 0W-30 or 10W-40 oil have just a smidgen of VIs. 0W-40 have a dolop, and 5W-50 and 10W-60s have craploads. But when it does come time to use these engines they way they were designed, a different number comes into play. This is the HTHS number. HTHS is a measure of the film strength at high temperature (302dF) that might be encountered on the vavle tappets are Redline. When the HTHS is adequate, essentially no wear is taking place on these highly loaded sliding surfaces. Any modern synthetic -30 oil under 250dF has an HTHS number that is adequate to lubricate and cool the valve train of these engines (journal bearings, also). But viscisity numbers go down with temeprature, so there is a relationship between HTHS and temperature at which wear starts to take place. If the oil temp guage is below this temp, essentially no wear is taking place. The only oil I know of in the 30 weight range that has an HTHS acceptable for good backroad driving is Redline 10W-30 with an HTHS of 3.8. Stay away from oils with the Starburst on the lable (thin 30 weight oils with HTHS near 3.2 or lower). Most of the good 40 weight oils will have an HTHS in the 4.2 range--but you are going to have to do the leg work to find out yourself. Here, Redline also leads the pack with a 5W-40 oil with an HTHS of 4.6. Unless you regularly see oil temps above 300dF you have no business with 50 weight oils in your motor (xxW-50). Anti-Wear Packages: SM oils are crap for high reving direct actuation valve trains, SL was uch better. The ZDDP content was dropped below 800ppm and our engines need this substance (which has been in use since the 1930s.) So check the manufactures web site for the Zinc or Phosporous contents that they are above 1100ppm and 1000ppm respetfully. Some are (whew), many are not (be afraid). For your entertainment, I have included a chart on oils and viscisity from a few years ago. You should check with the manufactures web site and get the current data before selecting an oil. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I am preparing to change my oil on my 355 for the first time. It used the 5W40 redline synthetic. However, I am opting to replace it with Mobil 1 synthetic 0W40. I have spoke to so some chemical engineers regarding this oil and have been positive to the change towards using it for the 355 (40K). I have studied the placement points for lifting and placing the jack stands in safe locations underneath the car as well. I want to make sure that it is safe and that I don't ruin my car by it sliding off or flipping etc. onto the garage floor. I have the ferrari filter(purflux 197654) crush washers for both area's ( dry sump tank , and oil pan bottom). If anyone has any advice to add I welcome them whole heartedly!! I am proud and excited to own this beautiful car but very hesitant to allow anyone to touch it (kinda weird). I feel if I replace the fluids myself at least I get a better feel for what is going on inside the engine in terms of wear and heat etc. Plus I don't mind saving my money for something more important when the day gets here (unplanned repair costs etc.) I also don't mind gettin dirty and learning new things etc.(all fun and all good!)Please any comments? Thanks, Georgio "Ferrari"
Any comments.............yes George!! "Have fun"! It is an easy job, just make sure the car is safely placed on the stands. We dont want it to come off and hurt you or worse. I take it you know how to check the engine oil level properly?? If there are ANY questions mate, please ask. There are many experienced 355 owners on here that also work on their cars and they are always more than happy to share their experiences. Happy wrenching Georgios!
I finally replaced the oil and filter last night!!! WOW couldnt believe how dirty the oil was and how relatively easy it is to replace the oil.. And some people charge $150 in labor..amazing..It is actually fun and informative. I got to see the condition of the underside of my car and the way it is put together... After I replaced the oil i started the engine and couldn't believe the sound and the performance. It was slightly lower in pressure and temperature (never got to 210 F). When I drove it hard (pegging the rpm) it was smoother in acceleration and power. I will now swear by Mobil 1 all the way!!!!! YEAH!!!!!!!!!
I couldn't agree with you more George. It is enjoyable to be able to service your Ferrari yourself...I actually feel like I bond with my car when I do work on it.
Yes and now I will be replacing the cats soon. They are easily visible and shouldn't be a hard thing to replace etc. I have heard the ching aling sounds of the cats and will prepare to replace the cats as soon as I receive them... I know that when you work on your own car there seems to be a strange bonding relationship going on... I feel the engine more and when I accelerate I seem to be doing it alot more linearly instead of jumping it as it s like our bodies. Hit the road hard and fast and then you could pull a muscle sprain a joint etc. etc. SO it is warm and go gradual till it is fully warmed up then sprint ...... Can't wait to at least take up to 180 one day... Cheers!!!!!
