Help 550 wont start after clutch replacement

Just a stupid question. Did anyone put a prybar on the toothed wheel of the flywheel. I have seen someone do this and move/break the three cotter pins and the timing was now off.

Just a thought, but yes, check the basics. Spark, fuel and compression.

 

After racing English tractors for decades... and having one lubricate the new garage floor at home....I have a strange love / hate thing going on there.

I did a kit install on a 3.2 Mondi and noticed a marked improvement as well

Yes, so long as everything else is good...you can hear the O2 sensor swing very smoothly with no studders. Slight studder on the 2.7s where the O2 sine wave's intersect but that is un avoidable.

Jim,

Thanks, I was happy to hear you were going to be involved in an install and am delighted to hear feedback from someone of your caliber. That means a great deal to me.


Ian,

we sent the replacement parts over night express AM...did you not receive them Friday AM? The round connectors go to the injector's, I have those if you need them. If you need, I can check on Monday and give you the pin locations for the crank sensors at the Motronic ECU's. None of the under manifold sensors or connections would result in a no start...missing, running rich... but not no start.

Diablo,

I could hear compression when discussing this over the phone and was told no spark, no fuel. That would require a medevil level effort to shear those pins off...what the heck was going on with that?! Scarry stuff, must have caused brain damage to identify that problem.

 

Check if you didn't knock the crank sensor out off the way or that you disconnected it from the ignition control module if your particular model has one.

 

I'm not going to add to the plethora of speculation already offered.....

But, I will submit this observation..... Here's what really sucks about this type of "problem". The car was running fine before, right? In all likelihood then, something was disturbed when the clutch was R&R'd. It will turn out to have been something very simple all along --- strained / disconnected wire lead, connector, jostled sensor, pin, etc. The trouble is these can be very tedious to find ---- often things look normal, and the fault cannot be seen directly. Also, it is very tempting to start looking at all sorts of more "sophisticated" possible causes and run a lot of elaborate diagnostic tests.

So, in the end, after a great deal of thinking, opinions, and effort, you will most likely kick yourself in the head when you finally discover the "stupid little thing" that is causing this problem

Ask me how I know.....

 

So.... How in the he** did that happen?! And, is it water, antifreeze / water mix, or A/C condensate? Where is the ECU located? This doesn't seem like something that should be able to happen under any normal circumstance.

 

It isnt on the first page of my checklist....

 

Plugged A/C evaporator drain hose? Symptom is normally water on passenger side carpets.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

Shoot a photo and send it to me at the shop. There is no easy way to fix what you have...been there, works for a day, maybe two at best and then it will get towed back. Not an area to quick fix as you also have Cat Converters and such that rely on a perfect fuel mixture. The risk is great.

Poor windshield install is what I suspect led to this. Break out the smoke machine and blow it in the corners of the windshield from the outside. You would be surprised how many we find bad....

 

If they aren't too bad, they can probably be cleaned up. Otherwise, it is very difficult to effectively clean the contacts (especially the females) on the micro size multi-pin connectors. Too often cleaning them thoroughly results in rubbing off some of the plating ---- which allows them to corrode again quickly (and more or less, permanently). Best solution is to replace the connector halves with new ones ---- which can easily be sourced through places like "Digi-Key", "Newark Electronics", "Waytek", etc. for cheap. The labour is a bit tedious ---- lots of delicate soldering and de-soldering (if they are crimped, it is easier) --- but, it can be done.

Send it off to Dave ---- he can fix you up

 

Gotta love Ferrari !!! What do you want in a car for $250K --- a windshield that doesn't leak ??? -- LOL

 

They DO break........

 

True. It may not be the OE windshield.

But, for $3K plus...... I'd demand that my replacement windshield not leak either ------- I'm just funny that way

 

Still not always the case: Some guys bling out with stereos, cell phone extras, antennas here, Sirus there, you should see the disaster done to my 456....and I don't want to say what Rifledriver found with his smoke machine...sigh.

Still sorting it out. Never thought to use the machine on the outside corners, thanks.


IF Purchasing:
Get a good PPI and take your car through a high-powered car wash before you sign the purchase check over....just saying

 

seven months later--- my 550 started today. the ball in cutoff switch was making contact sometimes. cleaned the thing off and car now starts. i hit parking curb hard enough to crack front bumper. Repair shop had a field day with my wallet.

 

wow i am impressed. congratulations. BTW did your car learn any new words?

 

I also had a corroded ECU on the RH side a few years ago. At the time I wondered how it happened. Now I know. Glad you finally solved your problem.

 

Good to keep in mind. Thanks!


Onno