Got two problems with the Dino GT4... | FerrariChat

Got two problems with the Dino GT4...

Discussion in '308/328' started by NitroHonda, Nov 10, 2009.

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  1. NitroHonda

    NitroHonda Rookie

    Sep 23, 2009
    49
    Pflugerville, TX
    Full Name:
    Mike Keathley
    1977 308 GT4....

    The front compartment... where the tire and battery is... does not want to stay closed. The latch thing looks worn. We were thinking about swapping the one from the trunk with the one in the front so the hood won't come up. We'd much rather have this replaced but... Ferrari parts are hard to come by! Any suggestions?

    The heater is stuck on. It will not turn off. UGH!! Any suggestions? Are we overlooking something?

    We'd really appreicate any insight on these two issues if anyone has had problems with them in the past on this vehicle.
     
  2. eurogt4

    eurogt4 Karting

    Apr 15, 2006
    243
    Sacramento, CA
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #2 eurogt4, Nov 10, 2009
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2009
    Most likely the front latches need adjustment, maybe the cables are too tight or the strikers don't go in far enough. About the heater, open the front trunk, take out the spare and anything else in that area, and remove the large plastic panel that covers the area in front of the windshield. Should just be some screws securing it. The heater valve is in that area, see if the valve is stuck or the cables are stuck or out of adjustment.
    PS, do you have a single front trunk latch in the center or 2, one at each rear corner? If it is the single and it is worn in just one area, maybe you can loosen the locknut and rotate it a quarter turn or so.
     
  3. NitroHonda

    NitroHonda Rookie

    Sep 23, 2009
    49
    Pflugerville, TX
    Full Name:
    Mike Keathley
    We'll try that but I'd like to hear what others have to say before we tackle that project.

    As for the strikers (so that's what they're called!)... we tried rotating it... it's really worn all the way around. We have two strikers on it. Both are on the rear corners of the hood.
     
  4. dstacy

    dstacy F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Jan 23, 2006
    11,997
    GMT -5 & GMT +1
    Full Name:
    Dave
    The cones, or tapered pieces on the hood lid that drop into the holes will adjust up or down. Look at them and you'll see they can be screwed in or out.
     
  5. NitroHonda

    NitroHonda Rookie

    Sep 23, 2009
    49
    Pflugerville, TX
    Full Name:
    Mike Keathley
    I do see that they can be screwed in or out. Explain more please. Are you suggesting a fix of some kind? If so... explain some more please. We really need the help.
     
  6. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

    Apr 3, 2005
    2,198
    Seattle, Washington
    Full Name:
    Cliff
    Ditto what eurogt4 said.
     
  7. eurogt4

    eurogt4 Karting

    Apr 15, 2006
    243
    Sacramento, CA
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #7 eurogt4, Nov 11, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    First, see if the striker cone is going into the center of the latch. If not, I think the latch can be loosened and shifted slightly. Then check the movement of the locking bar in the latch. Here are some pictures of mine in the locked and unlocked positions. Spray these parts with penetrating oil so they move freely. If the bar does not go into the locked position, the cable is not adjusted correctly, or stuck, or the lock bar is stuck. Then check the depth of engagement of the striker cone. When closing, I believe the locking bar pushes up the sliding part of the cone and catches between the sliding part and the lower part of the cone. Spray with penetrating oil so the sliding part moves easily against the spring. If the cone does not go down enough, or too much, loosen the locknut and turn the striker up or down using the screwdriver slot. Don't tighten the locknut too much, a lot of aluminum here. Don't extend the striker too much, it might get caught in the latch and not release.
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  8. NitroHonda

    NitroHonda Rookie

    Sep 23, 2009
    49
    Pflugerville, TX
    Full Name:
    Mike Keathley
    #8 NitroHonda, Nov 11, 2009
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2009
    With those pictures, I am 100% certain that it is not locking. It remains in the same position as the third picture. It does not appear to move much when pulling the lever inside the car but it DOES move some!

    We will do exactly as you posted but would like further explaination as how to adjust the cable.
     
  9. eurogt4

    eurogt4 Karting

    Apr 15, 2006
    243
    Sacramento, CA
    Full Name:
    Mike
    You will probably have to remove the front trunk liner for full access to the latches. Each latch has 2 cables attached on the underside, 1 to the release handle near the driver and the other to the emergency pull handles, one on each side. I think the main cable that comes from the release handle will have an outer cable housing, the emergency cable has no outer housing. Mark the latch so it goes back to the same position, remove the 2 screws and slide the latch out. Mark, with a Magic Marker or a dot of paint, the main cable where it attaches to the latch lever. Loosen the cable clamp and see if the latch locking lever moves through it's full travel. Maybe it is stuck, or maybe the outer cable slipped out of the short sleeve where it is seated. Have someone move the release handle in the car while you hold a little tension on the cable and make sure the cable has no binding. Lube it while you are in there. With everything assembled, the cable should have no tension on it when the latch is in the locked position, but it should start to move the lock when the release lever is moved a small fraction on an inch. Make sure the strikers come down to the center of the latches, and make sure both latches work before you close the lid. Lube everything that moves.
     
  10. jimshadow

    jimshadow F1 Veteran
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Feb 19, 2006
    6,241
    Indiana/North Carolina
    Full Name:
    JIM
    Another option (and its only a temp fix...) is to spray some silicone lube on that latch mechanism and try to work it down the cable. Might help. These latches get gummed up, especially after 30yrs of being neglected. ;) My latches moved VERY slow and hard to pull on. Silicone lube did the trick after a good cleaning....

    FWIW, YMMV

    JIM
     
  11. NitroHonda

    NitroHonda Rookie

    Sep 23, 2009
    49
    Pflugerville, TX
    Full Name:
    Mike Keathley
    The photos that you submitted with the latch. Absolutely detailed and was extremely instrumental. Thank you so much by the way! It's a funny sort of latch. It's very similar looking to the one on my brother's 1985 Maserati 325(?) Biturbo (It's the 4 door model). Now we understand it and can help him get his snuggled and lubed as well.

    Now while we've got that cover off.. Anyone have photos that detail the heater assembly?
     
  12. Itsa GT4

    Itsa GT4 Karting

    Jun 8, 2004
    96
    Atlanta
    Full Name:
    Mark Sanderson
    #12 Itsa GT4, Nov 12, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Once you remove the spare and the large plastic cover that goes the full width of the compartment, you will see the brake booster and the heater control valve mounted behind it.

    The lever on the top on this valve (as seen in the photo) is moved by the cable from the temperature control on the dash. Most likely either the internal cable has broken, the outer casing has come adrift of it's mounting clamp or the clamp on the lever itself is loose and not moving with the cable.

    Hope this helps!
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  13. DwightM

    DwightM Karting

    Dec 16, 2008
    56
    Mill Valley, Ca.
    Full Name:
    Dwight the Flyer
    Im going downstairs to check my 75 GT4 right now.

    hmm

    Dwight
     
  14. DwightM

    DwightM Karting

    Dec 16, 2008
    56
    Mill Valley, Ca.
    Full Name:
    Dwight the Flyer
    #14 DwightM, Nov 12, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Instant pix of your situation. First, a through cleaning is needed.

    Your locking piece is well worn, but I have found that when I shut
    the Bonnet, she will not directly latch. My springs are well lubed,
    so it actually takes me to press the bonnet corners to properly latch
    her.

    Your pins look well worn, and, I must admit, after 30+ years, all
    parts are wearing out, including my own.

    Best I can do.

    Cheer,
    Dwight
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