Are all 360's like this?

When you start it don't touch anything and let it idle for 15 or so mins.

 

Taz - I realize that the remote should have nothing to do with how the car runs on start-up --however mine did stumble badly on initial start-up. Once I changed the battery in the key fob, the starting problems were cured. Maybe I was holding my mouth differently - I don't know but thank goodness the battery change worked for me

 

after initial startup i let it warm up as i usually do, then took it for a spin for a few miles. for the past few starts it only stumbled for a split second before going into warm up idle. i think this was the fix, but i'll give it a few more starts before i hang my hat on it.

 

It probably has something to do with oil pressure and its relation to the exhaust phase variators.

 

Yeah - call it "character" and live with it I say!

If it does get worse the problem will then be much easier to find and fix.

For-get-aboud-it and enjoy!

 

80% of the poor starting/idle issues I've seen on 360's have been down to battery voltage. It may sound like it's turning over o.k but it only needs to be slightly low to cause the motronics to act up. Have the battery AND charging circuit tested. I've also come across Maf's going bad and poor connectors with high resistances cause start-up issues. Start at the begining, check your battery!

 

My 99 does the same thing literally everytime from a cold start--sometimes I have to cut it off and restart as well--once I do the car runs perfect. When the engine is warm, it starts right up for the rest of the day--only when I leave overnight does it start that sluggish starting issue.

The Dealer said it is fine as long as a CEL is not on...Glad to know others have the same issue.

 

If you want to clear your ECU codes here is how the factory says to do it. Jpeg and PDF format so you can print the PDF. Very close to Ray's suggestion.

My 575M does the same thing, by the way. Very slow start even though it turns over fine. May have to try Brian's suggestion. Cheapest thing to do. MTP91 is only $140 or so.

Taz
Terry Phillips
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I was told a year ago by Ferrari Tech. that when this happens to shutoff and restart. I have done this for the last several years. He told me that only one side was lite. I also have new belts, new alternator and F1 Act., but I do put 360 on trickle charger as he said this would help and I think it has. Hope I helped to the thread.

 

+1 - Just the way it is if it's not your DD IMHO. [Mine also does it rarely btw.]

However, it got me thinking (uh-oh!) - On the race cars we used to spin 'em over until we saw some oil pressure before lighting the fires..... "We" could do the same by turning the key before disarming the immobilizer. Then disarm, then start.....?

I dunno, but reckon getting some oil around the thing before lighting the fires can't be a bad idea? Comments?

Cheers,
Ian

 

Techron worked for me, but I think the rough idle on initial start up can be caused by several things. Some people said it could be the plugs, O2 sensors, MAFs, etc.. Mine started about two months or so ago. Soon after I had a 15K service (new plugs, filters, MAFs cleaned, etc.), but I still had the rough idle for 5 seconds or so.

My mechanic suggested Techron and 1 1/2 tanks the rough idle went away. I started with a half tank (the can only treated 12 gallons). Then went and filled it up most of the way and added two cans (a little stronger dose ~1.5X solution).

Your mileage may very depending on the root cause.

-Jim

 

ian, i think you got a good point. if a car is not started in a few days, why not crank it over for a few seconds and get some oil flowing. besides i have been trying a few things to get around the rough idle at start up and the best thing that works is when i crank it over a few seconds and stop then crank till starting and no rough idle. i'll keep searching for a better way

 

Just wanted to add that I had F Dealer install new plugs also.

 

if this happens on your first startup of the day, and then doesnt happen any longer that same day, its the battery, I had the same problem. Once you turn off the car in your garage, and you know you wont use it. Plug it into the charger that should fix the problem.

 

Some of the chargers are faulty. They have been used and used for so much, they dont actually charge good. I would recommend getting a new battery. If the problem persists then you have a bigger issue. I would start with changing the battery, probably your cheapest solution to this particular issue. To much guess work involved in trying out everything else that could be wrong. I had a fuel smell also. The fuel smell comes from when your starting the car, the battery is so dead once the car turns on, it turns on at such low RPMS, that it probably almost stalls on you, but then catches power, and you gas it a little in neutral. But does it happen later on that same day. lets say you started it, you had the issue, but then you drove it for 10 miles and you parked it. You went to the store. Does the same thing happen again. If it does, then the battery is just DEAD.

 

Guys I have to disagree with the battery comment. I have the same issue and changed my battery a week ago and the problem remains.

I am pretty sure mine only started after I disconnected the vacuum hoses for the exhaust mod..

 

I disagree. I had the problem for the first start and then was fine for the rest of the day. However, my problem was the injectors. A couple tanks with Techron cleaner fixed it.

A couple bottles of Techron is the cheapest thing to try.

 

I don't think the weak battery idea is it-- once a car is running the alternator provides power and a weak battery would no longer matter.

I have a BMW M3 that does what is being described (running rough for 15 seconds or so) every 2 months or so.
My independent mechanic says if an injector sticks partway open it drips fuel into the intake / cylinder and when you start the car it has to burn that extra fuel before it runs smoothly.

I have owned a number of older carburated cars that sat for 2 months with old gas and none of them have done this, so I dont' buy the old gas idea either

It makes sense to me that large fuel injectors that are designed to open and close very fast could have a tendency to not close fully and cause this. Maybe Ferrari should have its injectors made in Germany.

 

This was my problem, but I don't think it was having to burn off the extra fuel that made it idle rough initially. I think when the injector fails to close all the way the pressure leaks down and once you start the car, it takes few seconds for the fuel pump to properly re-pressurize. At least that is what I understood from my mechanic. He also said that if the Techron did not work, that there was a way to clean the injectors with some higher pressure cleaner.

That being said, others have had the rough cold idle symptom which was caused by different problems.

-Jim