Vignale spyder #504 restoration

And one very,very heavy crank !

Ivan

 

All the chrome is now done, except the wire wheels.

The engine should be going to the machine shop soon. We wanted to do quite a bit of research and not rush into this step.

The wire wheels are with Cork Adams and should be ready by the beginning of next year. The wire wheels were shipped to Cork in July. It will take longer to redo the wires than what it took to build the car in 1959! Luckily I am in no hurry.

I had the steering wheel restored by Gary's Steering Wheel. My wheel was cracked and missing one of the white ivory dots. The black plastic ring on the horn button, which is used to flash the high beams, was also cracked. He also polished the horn center and restored the white 4 speed shift knob. Looks good now.

Ivan
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I paid $650 to restore all the pieces. Gary's Steering Wheel in Carlisle, PA 717-243-5646.

http://www.garyssteeringwheel.com/

Ivan

 

I am already getting much more into it that I had expected. I am going to have to get the car repainted. It is a shame but the car has been spot painted several times and what is left of the original paint is old and faded. Also the seat leather is in bad condition and just replacing the bad panels I do not think will look good. My objective is not to do a bolts and nuts restoration, but to refurbish only those things that need attention. Unfortunately after 50 years the list of things that needs attention is getting rather long.

Not to worry, it will be a driver when I'm done.

Ivan

 

We are pass that point as the engine is now all apart. I tried soaking the cylinders in Mystery Oil for several weeks, then tried PB Blaster. We put an incredible amount of torque on the crank nut in both directions; not even the slightest movement. We even chained the car and pulled it with a truck while in gear ... all it did was drag the rear tires.

I had expected a failed head gasket and water inside the cylinders, creating a big mess. What was surprising is that no catastrophic failure was found and the engine really isn't that bad. Maserati engines simply do not like sitting around unused for 30 years.

Ivan

 

Not yet. I have three brand new 42 DCOE carbs for about 20 years, still in their original boxes. I have been waiting for the right car to put them on. I need to verify they are indeed identical, and jetted the same.

Ivan

 

I have not posted in some time since the work that has been going on has been mainly researching engine specs and obtaining parts. The engine is now at the machine shop and all the engine parts have been acquired. I will start posting info and photos of the engine as it completed.

I started work on cleaning and inspecting the floors. I am still amazed this car survived with very minor rust since the sound proofing used when built was a recipe for rust.

The floors were originally coated with heavy paint. Over that foam was glued ALL over the tub. I do mean all over, even inside the doors was foam. On the floors the foam would then be covered with vinyl. Over the vinyl the carpet would then be held with snaps. In the bulkhead areas, in front of the driver's and passenger feet, heat insulation was held with screwed on aluminum panels. I am leaving those untouched since it all appears to be in good condition.

These photos show as I am removing the dried up foam. Another photo shows the floors after the foam was vacuumed. The tub is in great condition! What looks like surface rust is actually dried up glue. I will clean the floors with a wire brush and then apply POR15.

Ivan
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I will mostly re-use the original carpet. There are one or two pieces that will have to be done new.

I need advice as to what to use to dye the carpet. Luckily the carpet is black therefore color matching is not an issue. The carpet has white edges therefore I would be easier to sponge in the dye instead of spraying it on.

The vinyl/carpet spray cans sold at discount parts stores leave a very stiff feeling on carpets; I do not want to use that stuff. Any suggestions on what to use ??

Ivan
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The wire wheels were restored by Cork Adams and look great. For originality I opted for the chrome spokes. A little piece of trivia; the early cars had wire wheels with Carlo Borrani stickers and two eared knock offs, also labeled Carlo Borrani. Later wire wheels were labeled Route Borrani and had the three eared knock offs.

Borrani still makes new knock offs therefore it is much easier (and less expensive) to purchase a new set of knock offs instead of restoring the old ones. The new knock offs are on order (Ted Waibel) and I should get them in about a month.

Ivan
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Before I could start working on this car I had to get it down to my extra garage, which is located in the basement. The car had no brakes or clutch hydraulics, plus the engine was frozen. Luckily the wheels would spin easily so at least the brake calipers were not frozen to the rotors. The driveway to the basement is rather steep in one spot therefore some method to stop rolling momentum was needed.

The solution turned out to be quick simple ... use the clutch to stop the car. With the frozen engine I knew the car was no going anywhere with the clutch engaged.

This meant fixing the clutch hydraulics (master and slave cylinders, plus flex hose) as my first task. On a 3500GT the complete pedal assembly has to be removed from the car to get to the brake and clutch master cylinders.

The clutch master is a very common 3/4 inch Girling cylinder and readily available new. New cylinders come with a modern looking reservoir cap but the original metal caps are also available new. The clutch slave is the same as just about any other Maserati GT car and I already had a new one in my parts stock. Clutch flex hose is the same as a Jaguar e-type.

I purchased the clutch master and the kit to rebuild the brake master from Pegasus Auto Racing. They also carry the original metal caps.

Ivan
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The brake master cylinder is very simple. It looks like a clutch master cylinder with a remote reservoir; only difference is that it has a larger bore. I had problems locating a new master cylinder with the 7/8 inch bore but luckily mine was not in bad condition and Pegasus Racing had the repair kit ($22).

The brake calipers are in good condition and new stainless steel pistons will be fitted. Jacques and MIE both carry the pistons and caliper rebuilt kits. Brake flex hoses are same as a Jaguar e-type and easy to obtain. The brake booster is rather tricky to rebuild. I have an extra rebuild kit and will attempt to do it myself. If I fail, MIE sells rebuilt boosters on an exchange basis, but if I recall it is rather pricey.

For the rear drum brake pistons, I matched the rebuild kit to a 1953 Austin Healey 100-4 (BN1). My rear pistons are in good condition but, if needed, new ones are available.

I am removing the brake lines so I can clean them and to be able to more easily paint the undercarriage and inside the engine compartment. The original brake lines are in good condition and I plan to re-use them.

Ivan
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