thats the one that did for me god thing i erased those bumpers from my memory however!! Thanks for sharing gary 8294
Looks like a lot will be brand new looking by the time you're done Gary! Fast foward to spring! Mostly it looks very similar to the layout in mine. You are still missing some of the pieces at this point but there are a few differences I spotted: a. I have black air horns. Big deal ... b. Your's looks like some of the brake lines have been renewed and those boosters are different as well as being mounted in a 90 degrees orientation from mine. c. Your receiver drier is in a different spot than mine. You have the same crankcase venting as mine, straight hose to the ground. What's the thing on the left hand side that's just laying on the steering column and top of the brake clutch reservoir bottles? It looks like the clutch slave? Was your engine out of the car for this? Keep pluggin' Bob S.
Bob My boosters have been uprated and as a result al the lines have been displaced and bent up over the years. i think Gary advised me just to keep them as they are more powerfull than stock! not a bad thing. I would like to intall new completely perfect lines at somepoint in the future however.Also that is the clutch slave .The was an engine and tranny out as well I had the clutch done too. Dont want to do this again soon so did ads much as i could now Gary And now to the title question ... Read all i could on VLG but would like some more feed back here... Phillipe what gas do you use in montreal for example and any additives ? If so where do you get them in Canada? Gary
Hi Gary, I'm interested in this one too because I believe I still have the original valve seats in my car. That's the primary reason for using the lead additives. If you're getting actual knock then I'd suggest you see if your repair shop can dial back the advance a bit and see if that helps. I have not been having that issue. A few people commented on VLG that using this would eliminate a hesitation I have and I might try it to see. If it fixes that then what does one do? The idea was that the newer gas formulations are wreaking havoc with some drive-ability issues. A tank of racing gas was another suggestion. This one was recommended by a guy on VLG a few years ago who had a spectacularly restored SIII which unfortunately got hit badly and has been totaled. A tragic story. http://www.kemcooil.com/product_info.php?pId=130 I don't know about importing that stuff to Canada though. I expect that soon it will be illegal here. In case you didn't find them here are a couple of posts from a few years ago. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/VintageLambo/message/27664 http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/VintageLambo/message/27647 http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/VintageLambo/message/27649 Bob S.
OK so I see you started another thread on this topic elsewhere. You have one person on there that appears to be the shoot first ask questions later variety. I'm always very weary of advice from people like that. He is ignorant of the current state of your engine and that might change his suggestions. That being said I have to disagree with your assement that the early carb Lambo guys all swear by this stuff. At least the ones on VLG have discussed it but I don't know that it's considered and absolute fact that this is a performance booster or problem solver. At best I would hope it provided some protection for the older original cars Gary and yours no longer needs that. I trust that you understand how the performance enhancement of high octane gas works. So unless you adjust your car's tune to take advantage of it it ain't going to boost nuthin'. I would think you car will run near perfect when done since everything except the pistons and rings are brand new and those were done what less than 4K miles ago? Bob S.
Bob; as you could get from my embelishment i was trying to get more Canadians to speak on the subject. didnt work except the 500 hp turbo hot rodder guy. Te dilemma is now that the engine is new I wish to keep it that way. Gus in Chicago tuned his timing to the letter of the manual and in doing so found everything was better and smoother once he added the octane supreme 130 with lead which really didn't increase performance for him as much as it just smoothed things out at lower revs and under hard aceleration .. So im still looking for more chat on this . That being said i have 2 cases on its way to me today. The other thing I need to consider now is some guys say our Sunoco 94 is better and CLEANER than our shell ultra 91 .. some however like my Mechanic, think the Sunoco 94 has too much ethanol which may do more harm than good ? I figure if you ask enough questions enough times some where in all the goofy responses or lack thereof is the answer. gary 8394
Hi Gary, I think one issue everyone agrees on is that for these old design fuel systems alchohol is the enemy. I'll be curious to see next spring if mine runs any better with a bottle of this stuff. There are people who know what they're talking about with good running cars that don't need this stuff. Mine is not a brand new engine so maybe a bit of the "chiken soup" could help. Gas forumlations are also very seasonal and regional. Bob S.
Hi All! Could not help but to notice that the right quarter panel has a left side Espada emblem and there are no left side pictures. Still a cool car! Gus (Espada 8616)
Hey Gus check back here tommorrow i will have some more engine shots carbs and wires on p.s. i'll let you know about the cam stuff when i know......... Gary 8394
Hey four of them at the same time guys! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-RED-LAMBORGHINI-ESPADA-SERIES-III-400-GT-S3-LOW-MI_W0QQitemZ250547017990QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a55c41906 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rare-1972-Lamborghini-Espada-S3-Euro-Model-Original_W0QQitemZ250546034070QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a55b51596 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-Lamborghini-Espada-Series-II-Very-Rare_W0QQitemZ170420122357QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item27add4b2f5 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-Lamborghini-Espada-Series-II-1-Owner-Car_W0QQitemZ170421058558QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item27ade2fbfe
Hi Gary, I see that the rear RH gas line has been run to the firewall for support. While not original that's a really good idea. In stock configuration the stress on that long piece has caused mine to break the weld at the junction point twice and I'm going to the same thing. It's too nerve wracking to leave stock. Looks like you could use a couple black O-rings on the plug wires in a few spots to hold them into a group. You must be excited! Bob S.
The plan is to send all the fuel lines ( once i am in for paint) including fittings to George Evans who will for a couple of hundred, redo the entire peice in stainless braid including the proper crimps! Then upon reinstallation I will install the proper loom that attaches to the back acorn nut on the RH valve cover ( check the parts manual) to hold up the section in question and thereby releive the wight pressure. It looks like a mini version of a plug wire loom got the 2 parts (Loom and rubber donut) parts from Eurospares using the part numbers from their manual. Then once installed it will look and with exception of the Stainless will be stock! I know I'm nuts but ya gotta be dont ya. Gary 8394
I took another look and it seems I mis-read your picture. Your fuel line is NOT secured to the firewall. Yes in stock configuration there is another support piece which attaches to the back of the RH valve cover. The gas line goes through that but the reality is that it's so far away from that humongous fitting at the the rear of the RH head that the stress is still really high. It acts like a gigantic lever. Isleros and 350/400GTs bring the fuel line back to the fire wall because the fuel filter is right there on those cars. That does a better job of relieving the stress. Mine cracked again after Bobileff repaired it then once again after a subsequent repair. Something to consider ... fires are muy expensive. Don't forget to wave a dead chicken over the engine before the first start-up ... ;>) Vodoo works dude! Bob S.
Don't forget to wave a dead chicken over the engine before the first start-up ... ;>) Vodoo works dude! Bob S.[/QUOTE] Hey Bob! Are you sure about the chicken part?? Gus (Espada 8616)
Hey Bob! Are you sure about the chicken part?? Gus (Espada 8616)[/QUOTE] Gus, It always worked on the really tough cases when I was doing systems developement. Of course I eventually was forced to switch to a rubber chicken because of the smell but that works too ... Sorry but I don't have any dimensional specifications on the chicken so use your best judgement Gus. And be careful to keep the feathers out of the carbs in case the engine actually starts! Bob S.
I'm interested in trying some of this Kemco TEL gas additive, but I'm confused. In reading the product description it says that the additive boosts octane when added at a rate of 8 ounces per gallon. Please tell me that's a misprint! At that rate you would need five quarts of the stuff for every 20 gallon tank of gas. Hopefully they meant 8 ounces for every 10 gallons or some such ratio.
OK! To start with, I'm no chemist! As I understand it, the claims are as printed. You will get 101 octane by adding 8 ounces per gallon of 93 octane pump gas. That is by rm/2 specs. My Espada owner manual calls for 98 octane by reserch method. I believe that the equivelant in rm/2 would be about 95 to 96. So I need to get an increase of 2 or 3 octane points. I add about 2 1/2ounces per gallon average of the Octane Supreme 130 and my Espada runs smooth at low speed and has no spark knock under acceleration. The engine is timed as described in the owners manual. Without the booster, the engine surges at low speed and pings bad when you hammer the throttle. The bottom line, it does not hurt anything to try it! You might be surprised!Gus (Espada 8616)
