Alternator rebuild

When rebuilding a Delco CS130 alternator, which I understand is 105a, is there any benefit to increasing to say 140a? (I have read Ernies outstanding thread on the nippondenso, but I didn't see this question answered)......thanks

I was considering just buying a new one (If I can find one other than "new" rebuilt) and keeping mine as a spare....

thanks "brothers" for your input/expertise on the issue...

 

Yes, I would say there is a benefit to upgrading to 140A with the heavy duty rectifier and regulator. As a data point, with the stock internals I was getting 6 - 12 months out of the alternator (about 8k miles/year driving). Once I upgraded the internals I got 3 years on the last rebuild and it eventually spun a bearing, it didn't fry the diodes like they usually do.

I've found new ones for $120; so for around $300 total you can rebuild your existing one and upgrade a new one to HD parts/140A to have a spare. Then just swap them during the engine out service and get the old one rebuilt.

Edit: I found heavy duty internals from Elreg.com and this site has an interesting looking upgrade for the CS-130 including an oversize rear bearing and improved cooling.

 

the "Iceberg".....do you know if it will fit on a 348 ok? I actually called once before on this alternator and did not get a return call. Thanks for the info...

 

Recently went through this with a Mondial t Cab with the Delco CS130.

From the posts here, found a nice sounding shop in CA, but ended up not using them.
Wanted $120 to rebuild, but used the Detroit shop since their unit was new.

Found a shop in/near Detroit. New was, I believe, $105. However, the large pulley is different from Ferrrari. Both used the higher output.

Detroit unit failed round 50 miles.

Had original rebuilt with higher output and HD parts at a semi-rural Kentucky shop that normally keeps old tractors going. Did great job and cost was $90. On car now and running great after 500 to 1,000 miles.

Had alternator taken out and put in at another semi-rural Kentucky shop that works on most cars but also rebuilds Mustangs. First time they had seen a Ferrari.

Did an outstanding job - far, far, far better than Ferrari Dealers.

Cost was $45 to take out and $45 to install even though they spent over an hour each time.

Dave

 

No idea on the fitment, but one of the 348 brothers used that kit when he was doing his engine-out service and posted that it worked. I believe he ordered from the place I posted, but if they don't return calls there are other shops that supply the kit.

This thread has some good info posted up by ernie and others.

 

thanks Eric..good stuff. What do you think about a new alternator (Dodge manaco) and installing the upgraded internal parts? There are so many opinions.........6 months and 1k miles doesn't do it for me..I want something a little more dependable for sure.

 

Napa cross referenced the Dodge Monaco alternator for me once; any CS-130 style alternator with the correct form factor will work. I picked up a new WPS as a spare for around $100, any alternator shop should be able to get you one - here are the specs: http://search.waiglobal.com/partnum.aspx?part=20-182-11-1

There are so many opinions because the CS-130 is a piece of junk, and the failures on our cars are compounded by high revs and placement so close to the exhaust headers. So everybody has a preferred method to deal with it. How you want to approach it is a personal choice, but here are the main options:

1. Buy the Nippondenso upgrade kit. Big bucks, and I've still heard of plenty of failures of the Nippondenso alternator so it is no guarantee it will be a permanent fix.

2. Get a CS-144 or other improved alternator (like the Bosch units that pop up on eBay from time to time) in a CS-130 form factor. A good custom car audio shop should have info on what uprated alternators are available for our application.

3. Put a remote rectifier kit on your CS-130. The failure is usually the diodes on the bridge rectifier getting fried from heat. A remote kit allows you to put the bridge rectifier in a cooler spot in the engine bay, and if it does fry you don't have to remove the alternator to replace the bridge rectifier.

4. Install an upgrade kit like the Iceberg. I can't find the original thread, but I think it was one of our East coast Canadian brothers who used it while doing his DIY major. Maybe he can chime in and give us an update on how that kit worked out for him?

5. Take your alternator to a competent automotive electronics shop and have them upgrade the internals to 140A heavy duty components. I got three years / 20k miles out of my upgrade and as I mentioned earlier it failed due to a spun bearing (this was the original bearing with almost 40k miles on it), not the diodes overheating.

If it were me, I would get any CS-130 spare alternator, upgrade both your new one and original one to 140A internals, pop one of them in and forget about it until the next major service. Then swap alternators during your major service as preventative maintenance.

If you are still concerned about a failure and want extra peace of mind, you can put the spare alternator in the boot for long distance drives. If the battery light comes on, pull into the next service station and have them swap in your spare. But I think you will get several years use out of your alternator with the 140A upgrade kit.

I'll take alternator headaches any day over exhaust header and valve guide issues...

 

thanks Eric for your input. this has happened to me twice in the last year and I want as much "peace of mind" as I can get this time. this is the first I have read regarding a remote rectifier, but I like that idea. I have thought about removing the upper shield to get a little more airflow too. I have Daniel checking out the nipondenso kit for me...he doesn't have one.

The guy who sells the "Iceberg" is right here in Michigan, but he doesn't return phone calls....I like the way it looks though. I may research that option too. Keeping a second spare is fine too, but I'd prefer a real "fix", if there is such a thing.

thanks for your time and input...truly appreciated!
mark

 

The Iceberg kit does look like the closest thing to a permanent solution when it is coupled with the 140A upgrade (an option on the kit). Good luck and I hope you can get better customer service from them - keep us posted on how it goes!

Here is a tech article on installing the kit:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/alternator_upgrade_kit/index.html

 

thanks for all your help and time invested in the research....my intent is to do just that, the "iceberg" kit plus 140a upgrade and see how it works out. I will surely let you know!
mark

 

Where can one buy just the pulley and what is the part number?

 

The pulley is a custom piece on the otherwise stock CS-130 on the 348. You will need to take your alternator to a shop to get a match. I'm not aware of a specific part # for the pulley, and unfortunately I don't have a cross-reference.

 

The "Iceberg" is not an option for the 348 do to the difference in mounting....

 

When my car broke down I had my alternator rebuilt at a local shop for about $80. For added security I did the following: Go to your local autoparts store and ask for a rebuilt unit for a 1992 Dodge Monaco V6. It is exactly the same except for the pulley and that the Dodge unit has better cooling and a slightly lower capacity (something like 98 amps). Just use an impact wrench to switch the pulley from your factory alternator to the Dodge unit. It is about $135 without exchanging an old alternator. The plug is the same, the mounts are identical. I did this and it was fine for me. I used it when I pulled my rebuilt unit for testing, but it turned out to be fine. You only should need the extra amps you are talking about if you run some serious stereo equipment. Even a 250w unit is only about 20 amps total, and the factory (or Dodge) unit should be able to handle that. My alternator rebuild guy said that a 1 wire unit would work also.

BT

 

WOW

+100

 

Very nice info Bill.

 

thanks for ALL the input. I am definately going to carry a spare altaernator of some kind. I took mine in today and the rebuilder said that the CS130 could not be upgraded to 140a. He says when you try to do that it doesn't work at low rpms. He offered to research the issue a little more (he is an older guy who has been around for 30 years at the same location).

I understand what Bill is saying, but someone else posted that the lower amperage altaernators don't charge the deep cycle batteries well enough resulting in a bad battery.

Anybody have a Bosch model number that fits and worked out well?

 

can it be any cs-144 alternator, or is there something special to look for?

 

I just bought one for my TR from Advance auto parts.$118 It is a Delco rebuilt by Beck Arnley.. The Casting says 105a but the rebuild spec sheet inside says 140 amps. Have to drill out the threaded hole for the TR adjuster.



Ago

 

Looks like the "iceberg" is no longer available.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/repair-kits-and-upgrade-kits-6.aspx

 

No, it has to be the correct case to fit the bracket on our motors. I've had success (longevity) taking the CS-130 and upgrading the internals to the 140A heavy duty rectifier/regulator.

 

www.aeimich.com

Ask for Oren.

 

i've got a line on an iceberg upgrade, but I've read that they dont fit in this application? Can someone confirm or deny this?

3forty8, where are you buying your 140a internals?

 

I have a brand new alternator that will work fine on the 348. CS130 105a p/n 7973N has the right mount and plug. New in the box......$100 including shipping.

 

I appreciate all of the info, however, I'm not looking to purchase a new one at this moment. I have the ability to buy the Iceberg upgrade right now, and really need to know if it does fit in the 348, or if it will not fit correctly. Thanks again.