Hi guys, I really don't have the time now to work on and finish my EFI project in time for our big Italy trip in 5 weeks. And so I've decided to try to fix my weber problem first. Some monkey has ruined one of my carbs, and some even bigger monkey thought he could fix that by drilling. And so I need a new carb, or more specific: carb body. I'm looking for a 40 DCNF 37. This is the lefthand rear unit on a twin-distributor euro 308 GT4 (talk about a long shot!!). Anyone have or know one? No matter what condition it is in. I've got all the jets, tubes, float, etc etc, so basically if just the body is in good nick, then I'm all set. THANKS!!! Hans
i still have 3 carbs left of my set. wil look if i have the body you search. i'm sure we can work something out
I have a spare set , only problem is I don't really want to split up the set !!! PM me and we can discuss it .
Strange numbers! Mine has 40 DCNF 37 stamped at the base, between the CO2 adjustment screws. Same location?
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weber.htm http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/default.asp I've had luck in the past with all three of these guys finding hard to get Weber parts.
I think the progression holes are different somehow. Does it really make a difference if you just order a new DCNF from some dealer? Educate me!
Yes, the difference is in the progression holes. Changing one carb won't work well.. Different behavior of these two cylinders.
Not sure ordering "one" is even possible they come in matched sets or four originally...how about the possiblity of rebuilding the damage and patching the old one up "to run"????? Note how Racing Baker has sold #47 from his set....
Hans, seriously, After your Italy trip you will rebuild to EFi anyway and the progressionhole differences will only show (a little) for the first tiny part of the traject between idle and full throttle. As you will go full throttle for 95% of your trip why bother? Just take the best available and make sure you're ready on time!
Hans My original set is 40 DCNF 60 150 7L 59 150 7L 58 150 7L 57 150 7N and the spare set is just 40 DCNF 99 250 3M on all of them
The various flavors of 40 DCNF's are indeed the configuration/size of the progression holes, and the particular jetting that comes installed. You can change and match up the jetting without too much trouble, just have a selection of jets/etube that match what you're running on the other three. The progression holes are a different matter - you have to have the same sizing and configuration as the other three, hence not all 40 DCNFs are interchangeable. That's not to say that a lot of owners haven't mixed and (not) matched DCNFs anyway. The typical drill is that one carb has gone bad (stripped threads in a jet hole for example), owner/mechanic gets any old 40 DCNF (non-matching progression holes), installs it and tries to tune it using either the same jetting, or a variation thereof to compensate for the different progression holes....you see where this is going on a 30 year old 308 that may have had this happen more than once over its lifespan. Pretty soon, none of the DCNFs match and they all have different jetting and New Owner is wondering why the car runs like crap. New Mechanic puts the same jetting in all four DCNFs and the thing still doesn't run right (of course it doesn't, different progression holes) and everyone is pretty frustrated. New Owner eventually lists the car for sale saying "carbs need a tune" in the advertisement. New Owner #2 buys, and runs the same drill with New Mechanic #2.....
Here are two pic's of my progression holes first my original carbs and second is the spare set Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm fairly certain that you could also use the lefthand front carb body (out of the 35/36/37/38 set) as a replacement as this would have the same progression holes and the mixture screws pointing in the correct direction -- i.e., IIRC, the difference between the lefthand (or righthand) carbs is only the end effectors on the shaft which can be swapped over. Just a thought which might double your probabilty of finding a suitable replacement from near 0 to 2X near 0
And here's a pic of the problem. Note how the hole on the right, where the CO adjustment screw ends, has been drilled out (and at an angle at that) by some yahoo mechanic. Not visible, but the hole where the CO screw ends is also a bit (but not a lot) larger. You wouldn't believe the difference this whole thing makes!! I needed to go one step up in idle jet to make it run in the first place. I REALLY don't want to horse around with patching patches and would MUCH prefer a new body. Which brings me to you, Geno: Which numbers do you have stamped on them? One in the 30's range by any chance??? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Steven, I am not so sure that I will do the EFI swap after all. This after another ride in Onno's magnificent 330 GTC. As in my Dino, the character of the car is largely determined by the carbs. Swapping to EFI would make the whole thing much more driveable and easy to live with. And this is exactly what I DON'T want!! The whole difference between Ivonne's 328, which quite frankly I found rather boring to drive, and my Dino is in the roughness of the Dino-diamond. You need to progressively feed it with throttle rather than step on it, or it will choke. You need to drive "around" the 4200-4400 rpm hole in the power band, you feed it with the slightest tough of throttle on the overrun and it will start throwing flames. And yes, all of this I could program back in, but that would be somewhat like walking through Disneyland and admiring the old wild-west mining town. It looks the same as the real deal, but yet feels somewhat different. (And I really don't want some obnoxious mouse or duck under the hood of my Dino ) Soooooo..... for the time being, I think I'll stick to my Webers....
I don't recognize this at all with my carbed 308. Maybe these symptoms are related to your carb problem?
Hans, per my PM here are a few shots of the carb. Mystery. Not sure if it comes across in the photos, but the original stamp looks like 37, but there is a clear 4 overstamped onto, and also an 8 that is slightly visible...your call. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Err..... now THAT is an interesting one.... I'm looking for a 37, obviously. Could you take another shot for me please? Of the progression holes? Like the ones that were posted by Dave on the previous page? I'll get my camera out too. Then let's compare holes and see how they compare. If those seem to match, then I could transfer the rest from my carb to this body... Thanks!!! Hans
Okay, here's mine. And it is clearly different from Dave's... Geno, how does yours stock up?? Thnx!! Image Unavailable, Please Login
