Wow, that is amazing.
Time capsule material. The leather looks a little dry. Get some Leatherique on there ASAP. Wait till you see what the leather will look like after a treatment with that product.
sure looks new....so, tell us the details on this car, where did you find it, single owner - why it wasn't driven etc....
+355!!! It'll make that leather softer and more colorful. Here is the difference when I first tried the Leatherique out. Can you guess which side was treated? Image Unavailable, Please Login
WOW- So THAT'S what my dash is supposed to look like- That's my reference photo for my dash retrim- Thanks!
Thanks again. The original owner had it in his collection and apparently passed away in the last year or two. The rumor is that he had other Ferrari's that he drove, but for some reason, never drove this one. It ended up being sold to the Ferrari dealer in Salt Lake City, where it received an engine out service, including new fluids, they worked out some issues with the top (low fluid and bad seat potentiometer), went through the brakes a few times (master cylinder and possibly the ABS pump had given out), and generally got it sorted.
If "one" must have a Red Ferrari......that would be the "one" Beautiful have fun and drive the crap out of it!
If the contacts never get "exercised" they can develop some resistance between them, enough of which, can cause problems.
+1 on following the owner's manual on break in...but do remember, that Ferrari test drivers put the first 70 to 85 miles on the car, and trust me, they don't "baby" the car one bit, they are winding it up to redline the entire time.
Well since the thread has been bumped up a year and a half....... How many miles are on the car today? Rob
A) make sure all the fluids are correct, and that the car is warmed up. B) you can use 4000 revs any time the oil is above 140dF C) you can hear when the engine is running harsh--its tone changes (falls into the Duh catagory). Slowly run the fully warmed up car into the 5000 RPM range (probably 3rd gear on a secluded back road far from constabulatory observations.) When you hear the engine go harsh, take a note of the RPM where this happened. D) Perform a series of runs from 1000 RPMs below harshness to harshness such that it takes 8-10 seconds to cover that part of the RPM band, then back off until the car decelerates to 100 RPMs below. E) As you do this a dozen or more times, you will hear the harshness disapate. When this happens, raise the RPMs on the top end by 500 RPMs and have at it again. Up and down the rev range. {Watch the oil temperature to be sure it does not go above 250dF.} F) as you near the 7500 RPM band pay more attention to oil temps, water temps, and listen for harshness with more finess as the noise of the engine makes them progressively harder to hear. And of course, if the engine even starts to make a noise you don't understand, drop back to a safe RPM range (4000 and below for this engine). I had new cylinder sleaves and new rings installed rather recently, this procedure properly loads the rings against the cyclinder walls and walks the engine to where it makes full power. In my case it took 1200 miles for the rings to tollerate the whole RPM band of the engine (8500 RPMs).
