the lvferraripilot engine rebuild thread

You can do it man!

 

Lifting a la factor spec? There's a video floating around where the engine is installed...and presumably removed by slinging the front head. I've been doing this way for nearly 30 years and it works perfectly. There no need to pull the bell housing either.

For perspective, I pulled a QV engine a month ago. After all the "stuff" was disconnected, it was a mere 18 minutes to sling her and have the engine sitting on a cart. No vehicle damage and no drama...

David

 

John,
To minimize confusion, regarding front or rear...I sling the head closest to the back window (5-8 bank). You do have to disconnectthe 5-8 header and leave her in the chassis, though...

David

 

I just put mine back in... Front bank up, bell housing on. But I did pull the cam belt covers. The steeper the angle the better the fit so I'd assume the same coming out. In the end, we had the front bank of cylinders near vertical.

Rick

 

To be honest I saw that video and wanted to do it that way too. But I talked to several of the pros here and they recommended 5-8 up. I figured, what the heck, I can try 5-8 up and if it doesn't work, we'll do 1-4 up.... it worked the first way so I never got to the other. But looking at it, as long as you get it tilted it should work either way just fine.

Rick

 

Here is a picture of my headers after ceramic coat.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Not bad looking under all that insulation (asbestos?). If you've got close-ups of the welds and bends I'd thank you to share them also.

Any noticable increase in engine bay temps after going bare OEM/ceramic?

The headers are now out of my '85 GTS along with the motor for a major/minor service: heads aren't coming off just multiple seal R+R, valve clearance check (all good), fuel/coolant line R+R, new OEM clutch, axle rebuild, general clean-up (blasted and powder coated the cam and belt covers, intake and coolant tank), and poly motor mount installation.

Cleaned the headers up as much as I could, and will weld up the EGR ports (2 were broken off anyway). Ditching the crumbled cat (had to shake the muffler around for a couple minutes to get all the liberated cat material out).

$500 for stripping the heavy covers and ceramic coating is a bit more than I'd like to pay for just an appearance upgrade - plus the few lbs of lightness of course.

Any regrets/benefits you have?
cheers
Kurt

 

I am a "checkbook mechanic" as the saying goes, so this is all being done at a local shop. I was told the ceramic coat will marginally drop the engine bay temps, but not much. It is mainly a cosmetic thing. I will attach a pic of what my new motor will look like, see below. I do not have close ups of the welds.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

that's too funny.

Right now my QV's cam and belt covers are being powdercoated textured-red (not exactly a wrinkle), and I plan to sand off the ribs to bare al.
Didn't think of taping the plug wells, but may stop by the shop tomorrow and have them do this.
Tonight on the glass-beaded intake I painted the "Ferrari" and "Quatrovalve" red (Testor's Italian" red) with a fine brush, then will clear coat the whole thing with ultra hi-temp engine enamel (tested on the tensioner bracket and looks great).

That sure does look tasty with the bare, coated OEM headers... can see the diff housing so much better. very tempting.

Thanks for posting the new pics.
cheers!

 

It looks like a decently sized chunk of a bearing to me too.

I apologize if I missed this elsewhere, but I am unaware of the back-story here. Did you have some issues with the motor that necessitated the rebuild or are you just doing it strictly to put in some new 'goodies'?

 

Keep up the good work. Nothin better than doing it yourself.

 

Ditto that - do it yourself and do it right. And, take the opportunity to clean up the engine bay and restore/replace corroded or worn parts. No need to go overboard and restore everything to an as-new state, just make her a really nice and clean driver. You'll have her back on the road and enjoying things behind the wheel again before you know it. Hang in there!

 

I saw the dyno run (one of, if not the most impressive stock pull I believe I have come across btw). I wasn't sure if something happened to go south afterwards or not.

 

I'm assuming what you call "drop gear" is what I know as twill shaft and twill gears. This appears to be part of a snap ring behind the lower gear bearing and spacer. It should be there to locate the bearing on the primary input shaft.

If you need more.... http://www.flickr.com/photos/moseley_ferrari/sets/72157602899523865/

Rick
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Oh man, these pictures are bringing back memories of long ago.

Good work John.