348 ignition key won't turn past position 2

Is your steering wheel locked, if so you release some of the tension by gently pulling back on the steering wheel while gently turning the key.

 

From your description of the problem, I would guess that something has broken or melted inside the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Unfortunately, I don't think you can buy the electrical portion by itself from Ferrari, although I think I read somewhere that there is an interchange possibility with a BMW switch. I just replaced the electrical portion of the switch on my VW Corrado, and it was less than $25. I think you have to buy a complete package from Ferrari (ignition switch assembly and both door locks, with new keys) at astronomical cost, in order to get your hands onto the electrical switch, which is rivited together to keep you from trying to fix it. I posted pictures of this several years ago, but they were lost in the "crash".

 

The thing that's scary about this is that once you have something wrong in the electrical portion of the switch, you have no way of knowing what could happen next until you determine exactly what is wrong. If a contact is broken, then it could float into a position where the starter could engage while the engine is running. Bad news. Or it could jam in a position where you could not turn the key at all, and you couldn't shut down the engine or get the key out of the switch. Or perhaps the switch could overheat and melt the wiring harness.

Lots of Ferraris seem to develop the voltage drop inside the switch, which can be corrected by adding a relay to the starter circuit. But this sounds like a different symptom. Same area, different problem.

Once the switch assembly is removed, it will be easy to tell if the trouble is in the tumbler section or in the electrical part. Either way, it MIGHT be possible to repair it, rather than replacing it, but you would probably need assistance from a locksmith or a trained automotive electrician.

Keep us informed!

 

PM sent to you, Milby.

 

Was your shop able to get this problem fixed?

 

You should be able to kill the motor by turning the battery disconnect under the hood, yes (perhaps needing also to stall the motor in gear at a stop)? Pulling the fuel pump relays should kill the motor, as well. No need to just let her idle until the fuel runs out of the whole tank.

Anyway, if your issue is that the key won't mechanically turn to the "Start" position, then I'd simply spray some WD40 and graphite into the keyhole and work the key back and forth (battery disconnected) between Off and Run for a while. Maybe blow some compressed air into the keyhole, too.

Also, please insure that your steering wheel is precisely in the proper upright straight-ahead position, aligned with front wheels pointing precisely forward. There is a grey area where the anti-theft steering lock could be giving you some grief, if not aligned as above.

 

Reviving this thread to hopefully help someone avoid some potential nastiness. Please do not put powdered graphite into a lock, especially if you are going to chase it with a liquid, because it will basically turn into metal. I did this to my 2002 once - and apparently the PO did it to my 348 Spider.

Here is the trick that fixed both for me, from the best locksmith I've ever seen (Mario from Authority Locksmith Bay Area CA):

1. Get a big ass towel
2. Get a can of carb cleaner and stick the straw in the ignition
3. Wrap the towel around the whole works. Seriously, it will shoot you in the eye
4. Blast the graphite out, with plenty of towel underneath for spillage
5. DEFINITELY use WD-40 now, as your cylinder has next to no lubrication
6. Pray
7. Put key in and gently rock back and forth into operation.

Mario also said putting WD-40 in all your locks (house too) once a year should keep them nice and smooth.