Major service on TR #76407

As I understand it - the spring sets the pressure when the locking nut (which secures the spring) is bottomed on the threads - this leaves a couple of threads exposed at the top of the locknut.

After assembly - Slowly rotate the engine and watch the tensioner movement. It will (very slightly) move in and out as the belt tension naturally varies through the rotation (as valves start to open - it puts more tension on the belt).

The in and out movement on the tensioner is very slight during hand rotation. When it is at its peak, stop the rotation and lock down the central tensioner bolt.

It is pretty simple actually. I took apart the tensioner to clean, inspect, de-bur and coat the spring components with an ever so slight (light film, wiped almost completely off) coating of lithium grease. More for corrosion protection than anything else. Once locked in, nothing ever moves... no need to 'lubricate'.

Rgds,
Vincenzo

 

here are the before and after shots of the tensioner locking nut. They were OEM at my service. The after shot shows it after my cleaning and re-assembly per the method shown below - you can see the same nut postion in both shots.

The cleaning and service ensures that there is no stiction in the system as it moves in/out and is locked in place by the simple procedure outlined below.

The black, plastic backing plate was replaced during the service. You can see how the new OEM design provides more coverage to stop 'stuff' from getting into the belts.

Rgds,
Vincenzo
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There seems to always be two opinions abou the way to torque the tensioner bolt.
I have always used the way the 308/328 WSM states: starting at TDC, rotate the engine two full turns and torque (back at TDC). Since the WSM for the Testarossa doesn't have a specific procedure and the distribution system is basically the same, I can't see why the procedure shouldn't be the same.
The other way is the way Vincenzo states: torque at the highest deflection of the tensioner. I don't do it because I've never seen it in written in any factory manual, but would be very interested in knowing what you guys think and what procedure do you follow !

 

Porto,

I can't wait to see the finished product. I'm going to be jealous but why remove the door and quarter panel on the passenger side?

Did the car need paint or do you want a brand new look?

Keep the pictures coming.

I'm going to have to do a major eventually on my car but not sure my mechanic will take the time to pretty up the engine and chassis. I guess some of the shops will spend the extra time if your willing to pay for it but I would expect that ANY MECHANIC doing a major on a TR should take pride in his work and go the extra mile to create a real work of art.
Just out of curoisity I wonder what additional expenses if any would be incurred in beautifying the motor and compartment over and above the cost of the major? Anybody have experience with this or is it usually just included in the service?
Rob

 

Looking very nice

 

Looking good.. Looks like a nice down draft spray boothe... You may want to change those vapor lines going to the charcoal canisters and that two way check valve. Cheap parts to replace and best of all its easy to change right now with the back end disassembled.

Robbie

 

I would say>>>"NOW THATS A MAJOR SERVICE"!!! LOL..

 

Did you pull all the black trim around the windows before the paint, or just use masking tape?

If you pulled the trim pieces, was it pretty straightforward - or problematic and resulting in damaged trim?

Keep up the good work. Next time I do a major, I intend to pull the subframe for powder coat as well! Yours looks great!

Best Regards,
Vincenzo

 

What a fantastic thread Porto, thanks for sharing with us, it should be a very rewarding ending!! Keep the photos coming!

 

It all depends on how far you the customer want to go. Yes mosts shop will clean the parts they have removed for the service. But a real detail job requires removing number of parts that don't need to be removed for the average service. Sometimes there are new gaskets needed and labor involved in removing said parts.

If you want your engine block, runners, injection lines, airflow meters etc, to look like new, then all that must be removed, cleaned and reassembled with new gaskets. If you want the nuts and bolts re plated, then that costs money as well. There is doing a minor clean-up, which generally is rolled into the labor price but a full out detail like this gentleman is doing here, you gotta pay for the time an parts. Its only fair.

 

beautiful keep them coming

 

You guys must be brave and talented. Love the TR's.

 

looking good

 

Very, very well done. It's going to be a new Testarossa... I'm glad everything keeps going the way it should.