RobzWorkz#1: CRASH and Body Repair

I finally completed enough so that I could polish the rear and install the tail lights and my tag. THANKS TO EDWARD (350HPMondial) FOR WORKING WITH ME TO REPLACE MY TAIL LIGHTS; I had to refurbish them a little but all worked out very well. Today (16 Apr, 2010),I applied the last of the clear coat on the RH rear quarter panel. I am now in the process of wet sanding and polishing the entire car. I will post pics shortly (about two or three weeks). The car should look good as new.

I am now refinishing the rear bumper. After doing this, I will install new side markers and finish the body polishing...more pictures soon.

Rob
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Thanks, Jedi...

...this was a mishap I was hoping NOT to experience, but I did. I feel fortunate to have learned as much. It did consume the winter break enough so that my other restoration projects are delayed for later this yesr.

Rob

 

I appreciate that, Jedi, however, this effort took all winter and I saved up the pictures so I could present this as a completed effort. I hope to be done by mid May with the body and will be completing other restoration work. BTW, I have done other work already, which I will be presenting in additional RobzWorkz posts. I just wish to add plenty of value for the budget Ferrari collector here. Enjoy, and Thanks,
Rob

 

Thanks for the feedback. No, I don't own a body shop. I am doing this to enhance my personal skillset and enjoy Ferrari ownership without reliquishing all equity owned in other areas

Actually, my completion here was too slow for a nominal body shop. Most shops try to turn around product; I, personally, try to enjoy the effort at being as perfect as possible, with reasonable constraint.

My job is a Research Scientist at Georgia Tech in Atlanta. Most of my work there involves computer modeling and reporting. Thus working on cars gives me the pleasure of a "hands-on" hobby.

Thanks again,

Rob

 

Helmut,

I've been following your restoration as well...excellent work, and concourse as well. I may follow your lead a little as I go.

The metal repair is all brazing (just UNDER the melting point of mild steel,and with very high tensile stress limits, actually stronger then common welding) and fresh 20 gauge sheet metal where required. No welding was done since the arc welding methods caused more damage than repair. The only original metal was the cannibalized RH tail light bucket panel (area that holds the tail light assemblies). All other parts were created by myself out of common sheet metal, bent and cut to shape, and installed with brazing. Each panel joint was a butt joint, with installed lap joints below the intersection of the butts; this is necessary to ensure strength of the joint. So, the joints are really lap joints, but they were installed as opposed to metal patch panels that had lap joint sections bent into them.

I hope this helps.

Rob


Rob

 

Thanks Helmut.

Spray cans are not the best solution for recovering a car, however, since my Ferrari was repainted with an aftermarket paint (not Rossa Corsa), and spray can paint will last a few years (especially since the car will be in a garage most of the time), then, if a reputable system is used, all should go well enough. Also, since the red color is simple, continuous and non-metallic, application and polishing are relatively easy. I used a Duplicolor system (etching primer, filling primer, color coat and clear top coat) which works well throughout.

If I were restoring my paint to show quality, I would remove all paint to bare metal, prep and have a professional use an HVLP air sprayer to apply a system of hardened urethane paints. When I refinished my 65 Mustang (can be seen in the link on the first post of this thread), I used an excellent Sherwin Williams ULTRA hardened urethane system that included hardened etching and filling primer paints. So, for this effort, I am desiring to put a reasonable aftermarket paint that will last a few years or more until I decide if I wish to conduct a concourse restoration (bare metal) or keep the car as a fun driver.

BTW, there is plenty of application pressure on spray cans; the actual strength of a prefessionally-applied system is present in the chemistry of the system (example, hardened urethane with a hardening agent added to the color coat). The greatest caveat for properly painting a car is: PREPARATION, PREPARATION, PREPARATION!!!

Enjoy,

Rob

 

Thanks Johnny.

This was simple Duplicolor from Autozone. As long as all the components are from the same vendor, they generally work well together. Basically, I was wanting to complete the entire repair for well under $1K, so purchasing a top-end paint system was preculed. When I refinished my Mustang with Sherwin Williams, I spent about $1100 for all the paint and body materials. If/when I do conduct a full-body repaint, I will use a top end system...for now, I just want a fun car to work on. It should be easy to maintain, especially since the car is garaged.

Do you have any pics of the Vette?

Rob

 

Sounds like you did this too, but without the requisite bodywork

 

No Phil...Edwardo had extra used ones...He gave me an excellent price. I reconditioned them and installed them. Of course, the driver's side tail lights were fine.
Rob

 

Excellent paint work Johnny!

I find it ironic that a Ford dealer was willing to paint a Chevy...LOL!

Rob

 

Thanks Edwardo...you're excellent help.

However, when I'm done, the car should look excellent fron 1-2ft...I will be posting better quality photos then...I am also wet-sanding polishing the entire car as we speak (waiting for primer to dry on the rear bumper).

Rob.

 

Thanks J,
I spent way too many hours to be competitive for a body restoration shop (well over 130 HRS!!!) I plan to be driving this month for a short while...to have emissions checked...I have several other tasks to do, beyond the body effort, such as suspension, fuel system and brakes...will post later. Money spent for all the body work,,,<$1000, including the welding training.

Rob