I performed some interior work that required me to remove the window switches. When I put them back in, the right window did not work. The fuse was good but I was not able to measure any voltage on the fuse socket. I was able to measure 12V on the left widow fuse socket, which uses the same relay as the right. I was able to read continuity between connector 'Y' and the fuse socket and between the relay 'q' and the fuse socket. See photos below. Can a circuit have continuity but not be able to carry 12V? I am considering soldering wires between the leads in order to get 12V back to the fuse socket. Before I did that I thought I would ask the group at large to see if there are any other ways to troubleshoot this problem. Thanks, -F Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
" Can a circuit have continuity but not be able to carry 12V? " No. If it connects, the voltage must be there. If it is not there, then there is a stress crack or a cold solder joint. This type of electrical troubleshooting is hard to do over the internet. I recommend that you reflow the solder at the two ends of the trace, and repeat the continutity test, you should see continuity. Flip it over, bend a board, stress the joints to see if the connectivity breaks. If you find a break, then the acceptable repair is what you suggested: put in a wire. Good luck.
I connected all the car wires to the board and performed the continuity and voltage tests. I got the same results, continuity throughout, 12V to the left window fuse and 0V to the right window fuse. Looks like I'm gonna be soldering wires to the board. -F
Check the connector at the wiring harness. They are prone to fail miserably ... but usually on the high current circuits like the fuel pump, radiator fans and A/C
Yes a circuit can indicate continuity yet not live up to your expectations. PC boards often have a trace crack which can come and go when bending the board. What may be throwing you off is your meter's definition of continuity. Some meters buzz as indication of 'continuity' with as much as 100 ohms. In this case you best have under 0.1 ohms to power your window. Touch the probes together and see how many ohms that is...that's what you want between those sections of pcboard. If your meter simply buzzes to show 'continuity', quit using it for continuity. Sounds like time to get out the soldering iron and add a wire to bridge that circuit.
F, Great photos... thanks, I am still installing my new box. Yes, static voltage can measure 12V Pass some amps through a faulty Ferrari ground stud, and watch the differential voltage drop to 8V...... GTCar parts makes a New box.....? (That is a 328...!.. A perfect High dollar car,,, it should get a new box.) Note; That old box will continue to delaminate........ soon you will be the expert at adding jumper wires. Good luck, Edwado
The connector looks OK but I measure 0V on the lead in the connector. The lead splits and one wire goes to the driver window switch and the other wire goes to the passenger window switch. Do the switches have to be installed and in working order in order for 12V to flow through the circuit? I'm trying to figure all this out. I'm trying to go "up stream" to see where I can get 12V on that circuit. Any advice on troubleshooting this is welcomed. -F
Furman, Where are you located? I'm in Eagle, CO. If not too far away I may be able to stop by and give you a hand. If you like, send me a PM.
I connected everything and got 12V on the connector leading to the board but 0V at the fuse socket. I soldered leads on the back of the board and got current through the circuit. Somehow I have bypassed the fuse though. I am measuring ~6V at the fuse socket but the window works and it does so without the fuse in place. At some point in the near future I'll probably take apart the whole board to see if I can make a better repair. But for now, I need to drive her. Thanks for everyone's help, -F
