Major on the 355

We did motor mounts and replaced all the hoses during my major. We also replaced the tensioners as well in addition to new tensioner bearings. Much easier to do with the engine out and gives great peace of mind.

 

1) Alternator re-build as per FChat Thread.

2) As per above, replace all hoses - use Dave Helm's hose kit.

3) Install Dave Helm's Gold Connector kit. You will not believe the difference this kit makes. It will seem like a new car. This is no BS - absolutely amazing.

 

Scott, what is the Gold Connector Kit? Is there a 348 Gold Connector Kit?

 

Dave sells the kit for most models including the 348. Here's the link http://www.scuderiarampanteinnovations.com/

 

Change the front crank seal. I may have to drop my engine because of a $35 part. They are going to try and lower and manuever without dropping it. It is in the shop now. I just had the motor out 18 months ago.

 

I totally agree on item #3 - I installed Dave's kit, and am very happy with the results. I'm also happy to know that I can replace parts, etc. and know that I won't have reliability problems with these connectors in the future. Peace of mind!

 

+1, and throw in Hill Engineering tensioners too. Basically this is what I did on my major, but used Ricambi America's silicone hose kit, since Dave's was not yet available.

Replace ALL the boots too, they come with Dave Helm's connector kit, because every boot in you engine compartment is likely cracked and split from the heat. Mine were. The oem ones use crap materials. Dave's should last for decades.

Get the Hill Engineering throw out bearing if you need a clutch...the oem bearing housing is well known to crack and leak all the hydraulic fluid out...been posted about many times...even happened to me...but never again, I have the Hill bearing now.

 

Michael Alpert?

 

Dave:

You speak the truth. I sometimes forget that not everyone knows to use the Hill Engineering parts.

If you do your clutch, also change the triple seals.

If I were you, I would send my injectors out to be cleaned, tested and calibrated. Dave, what was the name of that company you used and were very pleased with?

 

I sure would NOT do valve guides unless it needed it. That's like putting in a new motor, just to be sure.

I would do all the little things, with just about anything Hill makes that you can get in there.

 

You know I have not had my fuel injectors cleaned, but it is on my list...
There is a shop I have heard through the local BMW club that is recommended:
http://www.witchhunter.com/index.php4 I have a slight stumble in the idle of my BMW and my tech recommended I take my car to have the injectors cleaned/rebuilt and balanced.

Only $19 per injector...check out their website, very informative, lots of details on the process and results.
http://www.witchhunter.com/process2.php4

 

Sorry, my friend. I'm getting a little senile. Someday soon I'll probably wake-up thinking I actually own a 250 GTO.

 

I have the Dave Helms Gold connector kit. I didn't have any issues just wanted piece of mind. It is a top quality kit with all professional parts and tools. Its a little pricey but hey better you get the best. It not that hard to do if you just take your time. Dave gives you all the instructions and pictures on a CD. Its also good that you disconnect all the connectors and see if any corrosion is in there. The corrossion is what causes alot of the electrical issues, these gold connectors are first rate and you can see that lots of time was taken to put this kit together with the very best of everything.

 

Awesome, thanks. I am going to give Dave a call next week to discuss this.

Does anyone happen to know the level of difficulty this task would be? What qualifications/background does one require for this job?

I am not an electrician, nor a mechanic, however I have the patience and attention to detail if that is all this job requires. Advice anyone?

 

It's really not too difficult, Mike, and Dave includes all tools and instructions req'd. Remove wires from each of the sensor connectors, cut off old terminals, and crimp on new terminals with included crimp tools. And if you have any questions, Dave is always very happy to take whatever time is needed to answer questions or provide help. And also, myself or numerous others who have done it would be happy to also provide help!

 

Excellent, thanks. I am going to give Dave Helms a call next week about this.

 

I'm doing the kit right now on my 95 F355. It took about4- 5 hours to change all the connectors and boots in the engine compartment. Will do injectors some other weekend. Dave is very helpfull and will walk you through any problem.

 

what are the symptoms of or prior to needing new valve guides?

also, what will happen once the guide fails or needs replaced?

thanks

 

Do a compression and leakdown. If everything is OK, valve guides are OK, and I would think no reason to worry about the internals. If not, then you need to find out why, and valve guides are one possibility.

 

How many hours are shops charging these days for a straight forward engine out on a 355? I was recently told 50 hours, which seems pretty high.

 

I would try giving a few different shops a call and compare.

 

If it helps I can tell you that the official Ferrari man hours for an engine out change (including cam timing) on my 355 in 2004 in France was 42 hours. As you know, the man hours can vary depending what has to be done when they get the unit out. I've seen posts in the past and I think that I am safe in saying that the minimum for a correct job (and belt swap only) will be in excess of 40 hours.