Why second gear on cold boxes is a pain in 5 gear cars... | FerrariChat

Why second gear on cold boxes is a pain in 5 gear cars...

Discussion in '348/355' started by Marco Bussadori, May 13, 2009.

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  1. Marco Bussadori

    Marco Bussadori Formula Junior

    Aug 6, 2007
    430
    London
    Full Name:
    Marco Bussadori
    #1 Marco Bussadori, May 13, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The first, second and third gears are fixed to the mainshaft and revolve at the speed of the clutch. 4th and 5th are fixed on the layshaft and rotate at the speed of the differential/wheels.

    So in the case of the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, the synchros are trying to match the speed of the mainshaft to that of the layshaft. The mainshaft is the constant as the wheels are stuck on the ground, the layshaft is the variable as it is connected to the clutch disk. 1st shares a synchro with reverse, and 2nd and 3rd share a synchro.

    The ratios between the gears differ so there is a gradual reduction between engine and wheel RPM, from about 12.5:1 to a final drive of 3.4:1. The difference in RPM between 1st and 2nd is 4.4 RPM, then from 2nd to 3rd is 2.8, 3rd to 4th 1.4 and 4th to 5th 0.9. This means that the synchro between 1st and second is "working harder" by about 2x that of the synchro between 2nd and third. This "working harder" means having to overcome that much more rotational momentum.

    So, in a cold box, the oil is more viscous, sticky and less willing to get out of the way in small spaces. This means the most stressed synchro (that between 1st and second) has to overcome an increased resistance of all the rotating parts on the main shaft (think of all bearings and mating surfaces), and deal with having to squeeze the thicker oil from between the conical mating faces of the synchro. Add these to its already tough job and you'll quickly see why the 2nd gear is the most likely synchro of all to want to resist the engagement in this condition.

    This also explains why RedLine Superlight Shockproof helps the shifts. It is of a lower viscosity when cold as the standard 75W90 is when hot, so flows faster, meaning there is less stickiness in the rotating parts and can get out of the synchros faster. It lubricates using microscopic particles, that are about 3-9x thicker than a coiled oil (multigrade oils use molecular coiling to increase warm temperature viscosity while using a lower weight base stock for cold performance) molecule thereby provide about that much more resistance to shear (the resistance to falling apart when the molecules are squashed between metal faces). These particles are fully suspended in the fluid so there is no danger of them collecting and are in their biggest size still infinitesimally small that 100,000's of them can pass through the smallest lubrication pores.

    Of course you could lubricate with automatic transmission fluid, getting the same benefits in terms of shiftability and corrosion protection, but it would be way too thin to sustain enough film protect against wear.

    Ferrari always has adopted a wide gap between 1st and 2nd in most 5 gear cars, to ensure getting the thing quick off the mark and when shifting at peak HP, just short of the redline, it would drop the engine at peak torque for the 2nd gear. In 6 gear cars the jump is less pronounced and wider overall. A pedigree of racing, where once off the grid, 2nd became 1st, and you always staid in the "H" between 2nd, and 5th.

    If you can add to this, go ahead, I just want to crack the myth of the "second gear when cold" and do so while believing it was done for performance purposes as opposed to poor engineering.


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  2. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
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    Mr. Sideways
    "This also explains why RedLine Superlight Shockproof helps the shifts."


    I have perfect shifts. I use RedLine Superlight Shockproof which makes an enormous difference. If you are using RedLine Superlight Shockproof and still get a grinding sound going into 2nd gear, it is most likely from shifting at RPM levels that are too low, such as short-shifting into 2nd gear when 1st gear hasn't even reached 4000 rpms.

    Shift at or above 4000 RPMS to avoid clunking/grinding.

    Another trick is to keep your foot pressed onto the gas pedal during the entire shift. This is counter-intuitive and difficult for most people to do (fear!), but you will get great shifts this way in 348's.
     
  3. gidge348

    gidge348 Formula Junior

    Dec 12, 2008
    343
    Perth West Australia
    Full Name:
    Ian Wood
    I have just changed over from Shell 75w90 to Redline 75w90NS and I must say I have not noticed a difference.

    Still baulks in second when cold and need to get second before going into first when going to first while stationary and warm.

    Agree keep the revs up and change quickly and everything works well.

    Might try the Redline “shockproof” next time.
     
  4. Interian

    Interian Karting

    Jul 22, 2008
    174
    Miami
    Full Name:
    Albert
    I changed to the Redline NS and it has made a difference. It took about 100 miles or so before you could really tell. 1st to 2nd, even when cold, is like a knife through hot butter at 4,000 RPMs.

    The more difficult shift for me the downshift to 3rd from 2nd. Any pointers there?
     
  5. rbellezza

    rbellezza F1 Rookie

    Jun 18, 2008
    2,793
    Henderson, NV
    Full Name:
    Roberto Bellezza
    I also use Redline 75W90NS on my 348 and I have to say the cold shifting is improved but still hard, specially the second gear. When hot, overall it's OK but nowhere excellent. To me, the transmission is probably the down point of the 348 .... but I still love her !
    Next time I will try "Shockproof". and I'll let you guys know.
    Thanks for the info.
    Roberto
     
  6. MBFerrari

    MBFerrari F1 Veteran

    Jul 2, 2008
    6,057
    NoVA
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    Matt B
    I also use Redline 75W90NS on my 348 and I still can't shift into second until the box warms up...just assume it is part of the ownership experience and not a big deal.
    I have yet to try keeping my foot planted while shifting. If I do that, won't it burn up the clutch?
    MB
     
  7. agnello11

    agnello11 Karting

    May 27, 2008
    79
    No problems with the 1st to 2nd shift when cold - I try to keep revs over 4k in 1st before upshifting though. I must say, I agree with the 'pedigree of racing' theory on the gearbox and that they are specifically designed for enthusiastic use - being less suitable and thus less user freindly when 'pottering'. I recall the first time I really 'got' Ferraris was a flat-out dash from a junction involving full deployment of power to make use of a gap in traffic - accelerating flat out from first and through the gears to the redline in each revealed that the ratios were perfectly matched to the pace of progress and engine characteristics and allowed rapid changes.... the car literally came alive in my hands and suddenly everything made sense and complimented eachother, I can still remember the feeling now.... Conversely they can be a bit 'awkward' with less enthusiastic use as the components are compromised from the harder use they were designed for.
     
  8. Marco Bussadori

    Marco Bussadori Formula Junior

    Aug 6, 2007
    430
    London
    Full Name:
    Marco Bussadori
    The 75W90NS i still a 75W90 oil. This means the physics involved remain the same as standard 75W90's. The good thing is that it lubricates better and leads to less wear, so much so that it makes it a bit harder for the synchros to engage properly and gives rise to the suggestion of dilution of up to 25% with straight RL 75W90. Their basestock also means the oil is more stable for much longer. I used Castrol 75W90 at the first change from the old AGIP crap. Then to RL 75W90NS and now to RLSS. The RLSS flows much faster when being poured in, meaning it gets out of the way faster when cold - my theory here.

    Shifting up at above 4-5K is the key. Another one is having operating temperatures in the ideal range. The prob is if we start and go our common sense tells us not to stress the engine (eg past 3-4K) until warm, this means we're pottering around shifting from 1st to second at 2-3K right where the gears have to deliver the maximum synchro effort. Remember the difference in ratios is absolute, eg. from 1st to 2nd it is of a factor of about 1500 RPM's. At 3000 RPMs the difference is of 50% (from 3000 to 1500, 1500 diff + 50%), at 6000RPMs the difference is of 25%.

    Why better from 1st to 3rd? when cold, I suspect that we shift slower when on a cold engine, this means there is a bigger drop in the RPM, which lands the layshaft and mainshaft RPM's closer to the 3rd hear ratio than the 2nd gear ratio, meaning the synchros have less to do... I'm sure if we tested a cold shift at 5000 RPM into 1st to 2nd, then from 1st to 3rd, it would work out to about the same.

    As to keeping the foot on the accel? I'm not so sure it is as good an idea as letting the car warm up for 5-7 mins before setting off and shifting at 4000 RPMs (4K are safe after 5-7 mins, then 5K after 10 mins and full RPM at oil hitting lowest bar) - why? well the synchros are on the layshaft, eg. connected to the engine side, so they are trying to slow down the layshaft, bevel and drop gears and clutch pack to meet the main shaft which is connected to the wheels. As we shift up through the gears the engine revolves less for any given wheel revolution. So by keeping the RPMs up between shifts put unnecessary stress on the system and wear on the clutch as it acts as a brake on the flywheel when it re-engages. I guess better would be to train the foot to move back a 1/5" during the upshifts, and up 1/5" during the downshifts... This gives me butter shifting both ways, leaving heel-toe to when I am braking.

    Fun to talk about this tough?
     
  9. Lars_vet

    Lars_vet Formula Junior

    Feb 25, 2007
    603
    On the open road
    Full Name:
    Lars
    My 348 allways shifted bad from 1 to 2nd when cold.

    After a new bearing on the oil pump shaft, and some cheap gear oil (run in) oil, the car shifts like butter into 2nd even when cold.

    I dont think there i much more a expensive oil can do, but we will see when I change it...
     
  10. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

    Feb 6, 2009
    34,766
    Ontario, Canada
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    Mike
    I use RedLine 75W90NS and agree that when cold still difficult, but when hot it is excellent. I actually notice that sometimes even when cold it isn't that bad, but when warm/hot no issues whatsoever.
     
  11. FandLcars

    FandLcars F1 Rookie

    Aug 6, 2006
    3,057
    Tempe, Az
    Full Name:
    Rick Schumm
    I also use Redline NS in my 348. No 1-2 cold shift problems at all down to mid 50's temps (Phoenix Az in March after I finished my major). Also no differential chatter around corners that some have had.
     
  12. FullChat

    FullChat Formula Junior

    Jan 1, 2007
    339
    San Antonio, Texas
    This doesn't seem right to me. If I shift at 1500, it goes to 0? (OK, like I'd really shift a Ferrari at 1500 rpm, but just for discussions sake). The rpm difference should be dictated by the ratios in the transmission...
     
  13. flyguyskt

    flyguyskt Formula Junior

    Sep 22, 2009
    443
    South Dakota
    Full Name:
    sean
    after reading alot on here it sounds like the redline SHOCKPROOF is the way to go? any downside to it?

    can someone link me to the change procedure? THANKS
     
  14. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

    Feb 6, 2009
    34,766
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    Mike
  15. f1karting

    f1karting Karting

    Jul 19, 2006
    235
    BC Canada
    Full Name:
    Jan H
    What material are the syncro rings in the 348/355?

    If the rings are brass/bronze alloy, has anyone considered the compatibility of the various oil additives (sulfer compounds) and their effect on the life of the rings vs the benefit of the improved gear change over time??

    I also heard rumor about some additives in the shockproof versions eventually clogging GB oil pump and filter systems??

    Anyone else heard about this?

    I use MT90 in my 355 for these reasons.
     
  16. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

    Feb 6, 2009
    34,766
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    Mike
    There is a warning on Redline product about this, but FChat member No Doubt posted somewhere within the last 7-10 days that he checked his filter on a few occasions and there was no sign of clogging.
     
  17. flyguyskt

    flyguyskt Formula Junior

    Sep 22, 2009
    443
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    sean
    so it seems to be an endless debate? good or bad...gr8 that helps a bunch.lol
     
  18. troy_wood

    troy_wood Formula 3

    Apr 28, 2007
    1,457
    Nova Scotia, Canada
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    Troy Wood
    I would love to use the shockproof as I believe it does improve 1-2nd cold shifts... But I will stick with the NS as Redline does not recommend the shockproof in terms of protection. I believe it comes down to what the owner values most - performance or protection. I don't have a lot of $$ so I gravitate to the protection side of things.
     
  19. Todd Helme

    Todd Helme Formula Junior

    Apr 2, 2007
    947
    Oviedo Florida
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    Todd Helme
    #19 Todd Helme, Nov 12, 2009
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2009
    I agree, this part struck me...

    I will use a late model Corvette for example.

    First gear is good for 60 mph at 6500 rpm.
    Sixth grear is good for 60 mph at 1200 rpm. This a a 5300 RPM drop.

    Let's slow down.

    First gear is good for 30 mph at 3750 rpm.
    Sixth gear is good for 30 mph at 600 rpm. Here we only have a 2150 rpm drop.

    It is a linear equation. If it was an absolute, then I would love run -4700 rpm at 30 mph.

    The ration themselves are fixed, but the difference in speed is completely linear with the speed of the drivetrain.

    At 2000 RPM the difference in speed between the gears is going to be half as much as it would at 4000 RPM, which is half as much as it would be at 8000 PRM.
     
  20. wingfeather

    wingfeather F1 Rookie

    Feb 1, 2007
    3,653
    rock bottom
    The original post seemed to be a very logical explanation of the issue. But people are saying it is not entirely true? I am confused.
     
  21. Marco Bussadori

    Marco Bussadori Formula Junior

    Aug 6, 2007
    430
    London
    Full Name:
    Marco Bussadori
    It is all due to tolerances. The housing is of a milder metal (alu) and will expand and contract faster than the steel of the internal components. All gearboxes are designed to work at a specific temperature rating, eg. that's where all the tolerances are set up for.

    So if the box is cold, the casing is at its most contracted state making the gearbox "tighter" when cold. When it warms up, the casing expands and the box is "looser"... kinda like a woman, warm her up well and you will shift it like butter.

    Why does a RL Shockproof work better, just adding a bit more lubrication with lower viscosity... While better, the box is still at its best when warmed up properly. Besides, lower viscosity, means increased circulation and faster heat distribution....

    My $.02 worth...

    M
     
  22. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner Professional Ferrari Technician

    Dec 29, 2006
    18,221
    Twin Cities
    Full Name:
    Tim Keseluk
    No question there are workarounds that achieve better shifting results.

    The gearboxes were designed to work with Agip oil. They don't shift for **** when cold, never have.

    My conclusion is that lousy engineering is to blame.

    These are street cars after all and you don't see the same degree of shifting problems from other makes.
     
  23. SKUSA

    SKUSA Formula Junior

    Dec 6, 2009
    476
    Norcal
    I have had problems with difficulty with second gear when cold. Perhaps I am being too conservative, but I keep the RPM's below 4,000 until the oil temp comes up to operating temperature.

    I changed from the Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil to the MTL 70W80 GL-4 Gear Oil which has made a big difference in the cold shifting. It is like a new transmission.
     
  24. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
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    Mr. Sideways
    GL-4 is not approved by Ferrari for 348s and 355s. Ferrari says GL-5 for our cars.

    Because I do so many street and track miles, I've tried many, many gear oils, and the MTL was one of the worst. Just my experience.
     
  25. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,033
    USA
    Good to hear, that is what Rifledriver recommends for many Ferraris with shifting issues.
     

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