360 - procedure for installing new rear anti roll bar | FerrariChat
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360 - procedure for installing new rear anti roll bar

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by fioran0, May 7, 2010.

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  1. fioran0

    fioran0 Karting

    Jun 15, 2009
    115
    #1 fioran0, May 7, 2010
    looking to fit a new rear anti roll bar to my 360 however note from the workshop manual that its splined at one end rather than the more traditional design using drop links at each end.
    the manual states to mark the bar when removing so that it can be refitted the same way however with a new bar being used (one for a stradale) this wont apply.

    obvious solution is to try and copy the marked position of the old bar onto the new one then reinsert however it doesnt really seem like a proper approach.

    anyone changed their rear bar and have any info as to how to go about installing one when you have no mark to go off?
    common sense is telling me that with the car on the floor and weight on the wheels the bar should be fitted so that it allow the drop link to attach to the end without adding any preload either upwards or downwards. can anyone verify this? if so then it should be fairly straightforward to approach as i can just loosely fit it, lower the car then rotate until the correct position is reached, insert it then tighten everything up.
     
  2. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,274
    socal
    #2 fatbillybob, May 8, 2010
    WSM for ferraris are not like a gm manual. Many things therefore must be done by experience and knowledge taken from other cars and just looking at how something works. In very general terms yeah you want no preload on the bar. If you were really doing it right you would corner weight and align your car without bar preload then reattach bars as passively as possible on the splines. If the bar is round it is easier. If the bar is prebent and locks down and does not really rotate then more care must be taken in splining the arm on the bar ends. The most trouble is reaching the area and getting stichion out of the suspension. That's where it is a huge advantage to having an alignment rack where you can access from underneath. Baring the proper rack you can dink around with lesser lifts, ramps, slip plates etc... and still do a perfect job it just takes a long time. Also, I assume you know the effects on the wheel rate with the new bar? If the front is stock 360 and the rear is a stiff CS bar what did the CS have in the front? If you go stiff in the rear you may induce more oversteer especially with stock 360 understeer. Unless you have the ability to "test" you may want to generically keep parts in balance that are known to work together. So if the new rear bar has a companion front bar I would not be just adding the rear bar without being prepared to rebalance the car in some way.
     
  3. cwwhk

    cwwhk Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2003
    1,535
    Hong Kong, Tokyo
    Full Name:
    Wayne
    #3 cwwhk, May 8, 2010
    Last edited: May 8, 2010
    That is correct. The splines are fairly coarse. So just put the bar on the ground and line up the arm so both ends sit flat on the ground. 99.9% that's the right position.

    I thought all street going 360 has non-adjustable drop links. Only 360 Challenge race cars have the rose jointed adjustable drop links.
     
  4. fioran0

    fioran0 Karting

    Jun 15, 2009
    115
    #4 fioran0, May 8, 2010
    thanks for the responses. glad to hear i wasnt far off in my logic.
    had a look under the car today and it actually made more sense than it did at first from looking at the bar and the WSM. the splined end attaches to an arm that does the exact same job as the regular formed bar end. all it seems to do is allow some coarse tuning to compensate for having no adjustable drop links. as you say, setting the new one so its level with the fixed end should be the correct position.
    ill get this out and the new one on this week. the splined end threw me but having a look underneath shows that its exactly the same as most bars. just undo the lower drop link bolts from each end with the car on the ground (there should be no tension here) then jack up and remove the bar.

    the CS has the same bar up front as the modena, only the rear is changed to allow more bite at the back otherwise i would be changing the front also.

    you are correct that only the challenge has adjustable drop links. the road cars are fixed lengths.
     

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