Cracked the oil pan...

It's aluminum, I would imagine the crack could be welded closed and then the treads re-tapped. (At least, that's what I did when the same thing happened to me on an aftermarket Boss 302 intake manifold....no need for torque wrenches then, just 17 year old thick head-en-ness).

Phil

 

If the replacement pan is hard to find and you may be able to salvage part with this stuff. Devcon Aluminum Putty. Used in field repairs for military aircraft. I would say this is a second choice to welding though. To do it right you would need to open the crack up and fill and build the boss up a bit to be on the safe side. Then retap the hole.
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Oh, that even makes me sad. I'll bet you said "damit" really, really loud!

Can that aluminum be welded? It might be by a good welder that knows how to work aluminum. The threads may need to be retapped but that is an easy job.

I am sure this has happened before and someone on this site has a fit that worked for them.

 

When I had my Mondial 3.2 I noticed in the records from the previous owner that the drain plug had to be welded. I would assume it was the same situation as yours. Don't worry, this kinda stuff happens.

If your not comfortable with repairing it you might be able to find one at GT Parts in Phoenix, Az. 623-780-2200

Best of luck!

 

PM me when you can, I think I have a spare around here somewhere, I did the same thing years ago and had it heli-arc welded.

 

You can weld and re-tap the pan.

-Clamp the pan to a steel table
-Tape all edges
-Fill the pan with argon gas
-Tig weld your crack shut
-Tap the thread
-Have the pan gasket surface milled flat by a engine machine shop

 

Not sure that's a good idea, there's pressure balls and springs the regulate the oil pump, that will fly everywhere!

Maybe find a new part and have a shop change it then repair your old one as a "spare"....

 

I'm pretty certain anyone who mentioned above that welding the pan would solve this, presumed you would be removing the pan from the car first.

Try this link:

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/

Look up your car, and then the correct parts diagram or table for that area of the car, I think you need to check Table #25 if your car is non-ABS, or Table #27 if your car is an ABS version. Then contact Daniel at Ricambi, he'll set you up with the right gasket.

Also, I don't know how the oil sump cover is on a 328, but your photos appear to show the plug at a right angle to the base of the pan, maybe it's just the perspective of the photos, but are you sure you cracked the oil sump bolt hole, and not the gear box sump bolt hole?

I'm not familiar with the 328's setup, but thought it was similar to a 308QV, which I am familiar with. Someone else with more experience should be along shortly to verify.

Only other advice I have is to be careful not to snap any of the pan studs when removing the bolts and pan. If you're laying on your back under the car, make sure your ratchet handle is set correctly, as your orientation is upside down and you may tighten the bolt instead of loosening it.

Good luck,
Phil

 

Going through this on my QV right now.

A small crack in the lower sump radiating out from the drain hole, although from your photos it looks like the drain plug is in the side of the sump, where on the QV it's in the bottom.

Brought mine to a local tool & die shop that I use for odd jobs, they are going weld the crack from the inside and then re-drill the hole, and replace the heli-coil.

This last part is turning out to be difficult, as I have had difficulty finding a 22mm x 1.5 helicoil kit. No place seems to stock it, and everyplace I've called can't get it although Helicoil does offer one in that size. I think I've located two possible sources and will be ordering one tomorrow.

From what I understand this is a pretty common problem. Funny, I was thinking that perhaps it's time to start using a torque wrench on that as I figured I must have over tightened it to cause the crack. Perhaps I should re-think that ...

There are several threads (search for shift shaft seal replacement since this requires removal of the sump) that cover the removal process.

Jeff

 

I've never used a torque wrench here, but I always use a new copper crush washer, and there is a "feel" when the washer "gives" and you've tightened the plug enough.

Phil

 

You can have the thread CNC milled too.

 

I don't know about that,my 328 is very early, #60563, Oct. 1985 production and my drain plug is in the bottom of the pan. Also is this the pan or the "sump cover" or are they one and the same?

 

That devcon epoxy will be fine and will last for years and year.

I have fixed automatic transmission housings with the stuff. Actually built up and cut new channles in transmiision housings that were cast wrong.

But if you feel you want to take it apart and weld it that'll work too.

 

The newer style engine oil pan (that allows the oil pickup to be more submerged and minimize starvation under hard cornering) was introduced on the 328 in SB 10-16 (so there are 328 with both types of engine oil pans):
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