Replaced radiator fans on F355 today, easy project!

I recently had a 30amp left side radiator fan use blow recently. It did this once previously about 3 years ago. Knowing that this is not going to get better and according to others, is caused by aging fan motors drawing more start up current, and more current during operation. The drawing more current while the motors are running is a concern, since there is sporadic reports of melted 355 fuse panels on those circuits. Also, it can contribute to low idle and almost stalling of the engine when the fan motors cycle on, due to the current draw and extra load the alternator puts on the engine trying to keep up. (I have not experienced this) So if you have ever blown a radiator fan motor fuse, the cure is new fan motors.

New fans are cheap only $125 or there about delivered each from here: (thanks goes to No Doubt for identifying these as standard SPAL fans)
http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/size-pull-part-2049-p-219.html?osCsid=c5b9027f5137ba744d1d40e666124cd1 ($700+ each from FNA dealer!)

These are the same fans as oem, the only difference is the oem fans have a weatherproof AMP electrical connector plug. Simply cut off the old one and solder it onto the new fan assembly. The Fan Man, includes new mounts at no charge, but you could in a pinch, reuse the old ones, but why? There is a rubber insulating trim piece that you also have to remove from the old fan, and install on the new one (this fits between the fan grill and the radiator, so the grill plastic is not directly in contact with the radiator, but has the rubber trim between them). Other than that, this is a snap. Sorry no pictures, but no one should feel the least bit intimidated by this project.
Took me about 3 to 3.5 hours to replace both sides, and only because I was doing a very slow and careful job on the soldering and heat shrink. Right side fan motor was working fine, but decided to simply replace them both and be done with it.

Here is all you need to do:

Jack rear of car (obviously chock from wheels and use jack stands, or lift if you are so blessed)
Remove rear wheels.
Remove forward most fender liner
Unplug fan connector
Remove four 10mm mounting nuts and washers
Remove fan motor assembly
Cut off plug on old fan motor, with a few inches of wire still on it.
Cut off plug on new fan motor assembly and solder old plug on
I used heat shrink tubing over each splice, and then a larger piece over both splices.
Swap rubber trim piece from old fan to new fan
Re-install, and plug in
Replace fender liner
Replace wheel and retorque to spec

"While I was in there" I also replaced the left side radiator fan switch...they are only $22 from Ricambi, or $24 from your local FNA dealer.

Go for a drive and enjoy your new fans!

 

As easy as this project was, I kind of regret not taking a few pictures. But I want to tell anyone that is listening, that if you have any reason to question your fan motors operation or reliability, to simply replace them, and do it yourself. It was incredibly simple and straight forward project, and very satisfying to complete. I feel better knowing I am reducing the risk of an overheat from another fuse blowing or a melt down of my fuse panel.

 

$117 is the "everyday" price. That is the correct fan, the only difference is it has the wrong connector, so you have to cut the Amp weatherproof connector off the original fans, and splice them onto the new fans. If you prefer "plug and play" your FNA dealer has them for $750 to $800 each, or from Ricambi American for $700 each.

Shipping from CA to WA state was $16 for two fans, so $250 total for me.

Not sure what part of this quote you didn't understand: "These are the same fans as oem, the only difference is the oem fans have a weatherproof AMP electrical connector plug. Simply cut off the old one and solder it onto the new fan assembly. "

 

I would be careful with those recommendations. As has been mentioned in previous threads, the 355 fuse panel can barely handle the electrical load of the radiator fans and fuel pump as is. As these components wear, they start to draw excessive current, causing blown fuses and damaged fuse panels. Modifying the fans to make them "faster" is likely to cause them to also draw more current. For most owners, I doubt this is recommended. In fact, I am not aware of the 355 having cooling issues as long as everything is working properly. If the car is having cooing issues, I would diagnose what is broken or failed, and replace or repair it.

If someone feels it is absolutely necessary to modify the fans I would want to consult with Dave Helms and get his modified fuse panel, which would certainly be able to handle the additional electrical load.

 

BTW, I think I found the oem fan WITH the weatherproof connector already installed on the SPAL USA website:

30102050Weight: 5.25 lbs.
VA18-AP71/LL-59A Fan

so instead of ordering the 30102049, order the 30102050. Appears to have identical specifications to the 30102049, just includes the weatherproof connector.

Here is the web link:
http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30102050

The only issue I see is no online retailers stock them. Might be a special order item.

 

Okay, after two days of phone calls and emails, I have some new information on the SPAL radiator fans. Please bear with me, as it took a while to get the "correct" info, as some of the specs and information are not current or accurate that you find online.

The factory correct, oem fan is the SPAL 30102113. This fan has the following characteristics, 2467 cfm output, 27.5 amp current draw, and uses an unsealed motor. It comes with the correct weatherproof electric plug already installed, and sells for $220 each from the Fan Man: http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/size-pull-part-2113-p-216.html?cPath=33 (note he claims 3000 cfm and 22.5 amp, but the SPAL tech support says that is incorrect, the latest spec sheets he has say it is 2467 cfm and 27.5 amps). SPAL USA will quote you the specs, and in fact sent me a copy, but requested I not post it to this forum, and I will respect that request. (but the document confirms what he quoted me)

Here is the factory product info: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30102113 no spec sheet available on the spal website


I also found out that the fan we have been previously using is available with the correct electrical connector already on the fan itself, saving the work of splicing the old one on. It is the 30102050: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30102050
Here is the spec sheet:http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102050_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH
Same specs as the 30102049 we have used previously. 2028 cfm, and 21 amp currrent draw, just the same as the 30102049 (not 2070 cfm and 18.4 amps as listed on the Fan Man website). The only issue is the Fan Man does not stock them, and would have to special order them from SPAL USA.



So here is where it gets interesting. The first question, is why has SPAL USA repeatedly given us the 30102049/30102050 as the correct replacement? The reason is the factory part number (VA18-AP6-42A) is an oem number that is not in their system. So based on physical dimensions, they recommended the highest output oem type fan. We were finally able to determine with greater accuracy what fan this was when I described the heavier gauge wires, and holes machined in the motor housing. The SPAL tech was surprised Ferrari was using the 30102113 fan in an oem application. So what is special about the factory oem 30102113? It is a "race" application fan, with an unsealed motor, and what they consider a much shorter life span. Mainly it has some extra windings on the fan motor to increase rpms. It also has 12 gauge wires, rather than 14 gauge for the additional current. But one important difference is the motor is unsealed. It has two holes in the bottom of the motor casing, for air movement/cooling. This allows air, water, dust and dirt to enter the motor housing and bearings. The SPAL tech I spoke to had concerns with using this motor in an "oem" application, as it will have much shortened life over their sealed motor designs. SPAL does not even offer a warranty with these fans. Here is their disclaimer:

"Disclaimer: This fan is designed for use in paved oval stock car racing. The fan motor is not sealed and should not be used in the following conditions. 1. High dust, dirt, and/or wet environments. 2. Unusually high ambient temperatures (exceeding 176 degrees F). 3. extended/continuous modes of operation exceeding one hour in duration. Standard warranty conditions do not apply to this fan."

The SPAL tech says that as long as there are no cooling issues, he recommends sticking with the 30102050 as it will have much longer life than the 30102113. I spoke with Dave Helms this morning, and he says he has seen no problems with using the 30102050 fans, and concurs that it would be his preference as well, but for a different reason; he likes that it draws 6 amps less current. He stated that even if the duty cycle was an extra 15 or 20 seconds to pull down the temperature, that would be an acceptable compromise for the lower current draw and stress on the fragile fuse box.

I think we have found the reason for the short life span with the oem fan motors, and why they draw excessive current as they age. They are not designed for this application, at least from a durability aspect. They are designed for maximum cooling without concerns for longevity. They are also running right near the maximum amperage for the 30 amp circuit at 27.5 amps, not leaving much margin for eventual wear and tear and increased current draw.

So there you have it. Oem fan 30102113 is $220 with 2467 cfm and 27.5 amp current, or 30102050 for $117 with 2028 cfm and 21.5 amp. The choice is up to the owner. There is a 439 cfm less air flow with the 30102050, but it seems to be negligible based on the users on this forum (I have yet to hear of anyone having cooling issues using the 30102049/30102050 fans. To be honest, I have not noticed my fans running any longer than before, with the original fans.

If anyone IS having an issue using the 30102049/30102050 please chime in.