E-Type crank rope seal

My rusty block before and engine after. The engine produced @200 Hp at @5K RPM, 245 Ft-Lbs torque on the Dyno last week. Now for the body work ....
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The problem with the late 4.2 cranks was that due to the old machinery, the further the grinder got from the front, the more out of spec the crank was ground. At some point, so the story goes, the cranks were actually ground half way, turned around and the other half was ground.
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Otherwise the '86 and '87 XJ's were great cars. The best of the Series III cars were of course the '91-'92 V-12's, but then you guys who are in the US didn't have any of those.

The '82 V-12 I had for 7 years didn't leak a drop of oil, and yes, there was oil in it

 

I have both a '83 308QV GTS and a '65 XKE OTS both cars are in excellent condition so there is no prejudice from a condition perspective. Apples to oranges in comparision and both give a smile for different reasons. Could not say to someone sell X to buy Y. You will have to venture out to Long Island this summer and take the 308 for a spin then you can be more open minded about your XKE.

 

I've driven a few 308's, so I know what they are like. In fact, there's another F-Chatter selling his 308 (also an E-Type owner) that I nearly purchased. I loved the car - as you say, a completely different experience, but backed off as things became more tenuous at my job.

As I mentioned, I won't likely sell the E-Type, but the comment had me thinking "what if?"

 

I had the same problem of leaking oil on my Mk2. I found a simple solution to that problem: installing an electric crankcase ventilation system. As soon as there is a depression in the crankcase (i.e. a small "vacuum" of maybe 1 inch water column) the oil is not any more leaking (in my case at both ends of the crankshaft).

I built the device myself: a little 12V radial blower is sucking on the tube which comes at the front of the engine out of the cylinder head. Instead of routing the tube into the air filter (I am speaking of the Mk2) it goes now into the aspiration of the blower.

As it worked so well, I have built some more and mounted them on my TR4, MGA, DB2. (They all leak more or less at the rope seal or screw-seal at the rear crankshaft.)

I am aware it is not the orthodox solution to a leaking seal, but I have friends who have taken the engine out to repair or modify the seal, and it was still leaking after the job. I would not be able to stand that frustration, so I was looking for a shortcut.

 

Can you post some pics or more details? Sounds like an interesting workaround...

 

Change the crappy Zenith Stromberg carbs for triple S.U or Webers its a night and day difference trust me Im running Webers and could not be happier

 

My problem is that I do not know how to post pictures.....
Wilfried

 

Jack,

Agree that the 'John Egan' Series III XJ6s are the best ('85-onward). He really turned the company around when BL brought him in to run the show at Browns Lane. I run an '85 as my daily and it's a wonderful machine. Can't beat that magic carpet ride 25 years on!

 

Wow. More pics.