308 Pertronix install.....quickly ran into an issue | FerrariChat

308 Pertronix install.....quickly ran into an issue

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by tommott77, Jun 6, 2010.

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  1. tommott77

    tommott77 Formula Junior

    Feb 1, 2009
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    Tom
    #1 tommott77, Jun 6, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The time has finally come to swap out the points in my dual dizzy 308 to the Pertronix ignitor setup (MR-182 that I purchased out of Classic Garage in NY) that I have had sitting in a box for a half a year. I am getting sick of changing out fouled plugs all the time. I pulled the back dizzy off, removed both sets of points and quickly noticed a problem.

    As you can see from picture #1 that the ignitor plate is a complete plate that runs 360 degrees around the entirety of the dizzy. However in picture #2 my dizzy (Magneti Marelli marked S 159 B, 7D) has some sort of brush and accompanying brush housing protruding out of the surface where the Pertronix mounting plate is supposed to mount up to.

    I see three possible solutions to the problem at this point.

    1) Remove the brush and grind the brush housing flush with the bottom of the dizzy. Not sure what the purpose of the brush is and am not sure if the dizzy can do without it. It would also take a good bit of grinding as it seem that the housing is in there pretty good.

    2) Cut/modify the mounting plate of the Pertronix unit itself. I am kind of a newbie when it comes to dizzys and I am not sure if the plate is magnetic, and if so, if any cutting of the plate can compromise the functionality of the entire Pertronix unit.

    3) Look for another/correct Pertronix setup for my application (dual dizzy). At the time of the purchase of my current unit that seemed to be the only thing on the market.

    ....Another point of confusion is the magnetic sleeve that comes with plate. The directions call to "install magnet sleeve over the distributor shaft. Rotate sleeve until a slight locating position is felt. With sleeve lined up on point cam. press down firmly insuring sleeve is fully seated". The sleeve that was supplied in my kit will not fit on the dizzy shaft without removing the outer bearing that resides between the bearing plate and the dizzy shaft. Should that bearing be removed?

    Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
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  2. JoshECS

    JoshECS Formula Junior
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    I generally use the Ignitor 2, the pickup comes attached to a small half moon shaped piece which easily mounts to the distributor. It also allows some adjustment to get the gap between the pick up and distributor shaft correct. I'd go ahead and modify your Pertronix mounting plate to fit your distributor..or get an easier kit to work with instead of modifying the distributor in a way that isn't reversible.
     
  3. kena

    kena Formula 3

    May 20, 2007
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    Hi Tom ,I recently fitted the same units to my GT4.
    1. If you dismantle the dizzy from the underside you can drill or tap out the rivets that hold the brush holder in place you don't have to mess with the bobweights as there's room in there to do the job.[the brush when oiled is there to lubricate the cam where the points rub ]
    2.You have to gently pull that bearing off the shaft I used a small 2 leg puller, but any small puller would do the job.
    Hope this helps. K
     
  4. tommott77

    tommott77 Formula Junior

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    #4 tommott77, Jun 6, 2010
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2010
    Thanks for the responses.

    I guess it sounds like either of the options might work. I thought about trying to get the brush housing off by getting to it from the bottom side of the dizzy, and went ahead and removed the screws off the bottom plate. The plate didn't come out freely so I stopped there, I just had real bad visions of springs and what not shooting out everywhere. It looks like I might be able to access and drill out the rivets from the top though.

    The more I think about it, if modifying the plate on the Pertronix unit is a viable option, it might make more sense to go this route as opposed to cutting up the dizzy in case if somebody (other than myself) ever wanted to go back with the points.
     
  5. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Jul 19, 2008
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    #5 tazandjan, Jun 7, 2010
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2010
    Tom- The points vs pointless ignition alone is not going to cure your plug fouling unless the kit has its own capacitor discharge unit more powerful than the OEM unit. All the points are doing in a capacitor discharge set-up is time the spark and the pointless unit does the same thing a bit more precisely, especially over time because there is no points wear.

    Taz
    Terry Phillips
     
  6. tommott77

    tommott77 Formula Junior

    Feb 1, 2009
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    Going to cut the Pertronix plate and at least try to install the aft distributor tomorrow.

    Now can someone correct me if I am wrong but with installation of the dizzy the red dot on the dizzy corresponds with the firing of #1, so I should set the flywheel on TDC for 1-4 with the rotor pointing at the red dot....correct?
     
  7. JoshECS

    JoshECS Formula Junior
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    I don't recall the "red dot" per se. There is generally a "punch mark" on the distributor housing's outer edge that will denote cylinder #1 though. You will want cylinder 1 at TDC when you do this as you mentioned.
     
  8. tommott77

    tommott77 Formula Junior

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    Alright change of plans. I am going to have to remove the entire brush housing due to clearance issues with Pertronix's magnetic sleeve that has to fit over the dizzy shaft, thanks FiatRN for catching that for me. I have everything opened up. While I am in there I want to clean everything up and re-lube the advance mechanism. Is there a consensus on what to use for lube? I have seen people using generic motor oil before, but I also seem to remember hearing about a specific grease.
     
  9. JoshECS

    JoshECS Formula Junior
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    Bosch actually sells a "distributor" grease. If you do a Google search you can find it pretty easily.
     
  10. decardona

    decardona Formula 3

    Apr 23, 2005
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    That's how I did it. When it was put back together, the timing was a bit off on both banks. But after setting the timing, the car has run like a dream. It seems to have more grunt, and I am now getting 20 mpg on the highway.
     
  11. tommott77

    tommott77 Formula Junior

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    #11 tommott77, Jun 9, 2010
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2010
    Thanks for the responses. I ended up using lithium grease to lube up the advance mechanism........hopefully this will be okay.

    I am going to reinstall the aft dizzy today, so good timing. I marked the rotor position when I removed the dizzy, but I didn't feel confident with the way everything was running prior to the removal so I want to start back with a clean/correct slate.
     
  12. tommott77

    tommott77 Formula Junior

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    #12 tommott77, Jun 9, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Aft dizzy is back on the car, lined up the rotor over the red notch for #1 fire and got the motor on the PM1-4 mark (PITA, half thinking about putting some marks on the main pulley on the passenger side of the car).

    About to wire the first unit up as I want to get it up and running, and timed correctly, before pulling to the front dizzy just to make it easier to located and track down any potential issues.

    I just want to make sure that the red bugger sitting under the coil in the picture is the ballast resistor? I am also assuming that B is '+' in Italian and D is '-'?
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  13. JoshECS

    JoshECS Formula Junior
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    That is the ballast resistor, correct. The "B" is in fact positive and the "D" is in fact negative, I check the service manual before responding to be certain.
     
  14. tommott77

    tommott77 Formula Junior

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    Awesome! Thanks!
     
  15. jm3

    jm3 F1 Rookie

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    You really need to put both pickups in one distributor.

    If not, you MUST rebuild both distributors, and have the advance curves matched on a Sun distributor machine.

    Or you can put both pickups in one distributor.
     
  16. Mark456M

    Mark456M Formula Junior

    Aug 26, 2008
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    The MR-182 kit is the correct one for the twin distributor set-up. Remove the bottom plate by
    undoing the 6 countersunk screws and ease the plate out. Drill out the rivets that hold the felt holder and tap it out. Check over the advance weights for correct operation and then refit. The top bearing plate must be removed to fit the module plate and magnet sleeve. The sleeve fits on green tape downwards. Refit top bearing plate. Repeat for other distributor. There is an Ignitor 2 kit made under part number 9MR-182. If you fit the Ignitor 2 unit it is essential that you change the plug wires from solid core (copper) to a suppressed core . Taylor Spiro-Pro is perfect or use the Pertronix 8mm Mag X2 wires. The plug ends will probably need changing to match the engine. This is probably too late to help you but it might come in useful for others.
     
  17. don_xvi

    don_xvi F1 Rookie

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    Great directions, I hope they're so clear when I order myself a kit... soon!
     
  18. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    +1

    But I'm not sure everyone understands why this is the best thing to do. Maybe you could elaborate why and how to do this.

    Bob S.
     
  19. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    There are a couple of specialized greases for this application but lithium is not reccomended.

    Do some searching on this topic. There is at least one Pro dizzy rebuilder who's posted on this topic here in the last 3 years. He helped me out a lot. If you can't find it let me know and I can dig up the info if you want.

    Getting your advance mechanism properly serviced and checked out on a Sun distributor machine is really important if you want your car to run right.

    Bob S.
     
  20. tommott77

    tommott77 Formula Junior

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    #20 tommott77, Jun 16, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Ok, went to put everything back together today and will hopefully be re-setting the timing tomorrow. I have noted this in the past and thought this was a good opportunity to take a picture of it and pose this question, but this little black module looking thing on the bottom of my coil next to the ballast resistor has been disconnected as long as I have had the car.......anybody have any idea what it is and if it should be reconnected?
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  21. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    The '78-'79 OM wiring diagram shows a 1 uF capacitor (item 79) to supress radio interference connected between the "+" terminal on one of the coils and ground -- any markings/ratings shown on the case?
     
  22. tommott77

    tommott77 Formula Junior

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    It appears to have some markings on the bottom of it, I would have to remove it again to read it though. I believe you are correct. I originally just checked the North American 308 GTB/GTS manual which did not have anything listed in the wiring diagram for the engine electrical system, but I just checked the GT4 manual and it does have a radio suppressor listed..... I have yet to turn on the radio since I have owned the car.
     

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