My 348 doesn't start

Do you get a "click" from the starter area when you turn the key? It's possible that you need to have the relay system added to your wiring to get full battery voltage to the starter solenoid.

 

Before we start tearing into things, does your car have an alarm/immobilizer system that may have become activated and is preventing it from starting?

There are two wire terminals on the starter. The larger one should receive direct voltage straight from the battery at all times. The smaller one should receive voltage from the ignition switch when the key is turned, activating the solenoid and starter motor. If you get less than full voltage through this wire when the key is turned, you have a voltage drop in the ignition switch, which can be corrected by adding a relay. It's an approved repair from the factory. I did a thread about adding the relay to my own 348, and several others here have had to do the same.

 

Hi, Marc;

Your starter is on the right side, and it is mounted to the gearbox, not the engine. It is just in front of the inner end of the right drive axle (slightly above). You should not need to remove it from the car at this time.

If possible, use a voltmeter to check the voltage at the main cable to the starter. It should be exactly the same as the voltage at the battery. This cable is the one attached with a nut, and the cable should be tight. The other cable is the signal wire from the ignition switch, and it is a spade terminal that just pushes onto the solenoid. Again, if it is possible, take this wire off the solenoid and have someone turn the key to the start position, and take a voltage reading at the wire (shift lever in neutral for safety). If it is less than 12.2 volts, the starter will not spin over. This is when you need to install the relay to boost the starting voltage to the solenoid.

I can try to take some pictures for you if think you need additional help, but the wires are in an awkward position for pictures.

My wife would love for me to take her on a trip to Lux!

 

There is no fuse in the starter system. The current should go from the battery, to the ignition switch, then THROUGH the fuse panel (but no through a fuse or relay) and then to the starter solenoid. Try this, if you can:

Make absolutely sure that the shifter is in neutral (for safety). Unplug the spade terminal from the starter solenoid, but leave the heavy positive cable attached. Using a screwdriver, jump between the two terminals on the starter, feeding full battery voltage into the solenoid. It will scare you when you make the connection, but the starter should crank over normally, and the engine will start if you have the key in the "run" position. That's why you MUST be in neutral.

If this test works, I (or another brother) will tell you how to track down the problem.

Edit: I'm going to be gone for a few hours.

 

Sounds like you would benefit from the relay fix. Details are here:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160866&highlight=348+start+relay&page=2

I actually have a relay to do this also, but have postponed installation until my start issues became excessive. They've gotten worse recently so I think the time has come.

 

0? Hmmm. Didn't catch that. I apologize. Of course that won't help you much.

I'll have to defer to those who have taken the ignition switch apart, but perhaps start by finding the connection in the fuse box area and attempting to isolate the fault from the swith to there, or from there to the starter?

 

you could test if it "was or wasnt" the ignititon switch by jumping or bypassing around the actual switch.

 

Just to confirm - you are getting a reading of zero volts when you turn the key to the "start" position and hook up your voltmeter between the white wire that plugs into the starter solenoid on one side, and battery ground on the other side? To me, that indicates that you have a totally open circuit, either inside the ignition switch, or in the wiring between the ignition switch and the starter.

You're SURE that there is no alarm/immobilizer system in there, even if it has been de-activated? I seem to remember that someone in Europe told me that it was mandatory to have an alarm system on his Ferrari in order for him to get insurance coverage. If you're getting zero volts to the solenoid, something is wide open, and installing a relay won't help.

I might suggest that you check the tightness of the wiring twist connector found near the top of the left rear shock absorber. This piece connects the wiring from the frame of the car to the subframe, and includes the white starter signal wire. We had a case recently where a 348 alternator was malfunctioning because of a bad connection at that point.

I find it very unlikely that there is a problem in the area of the fuse panel, although the starter signal wire runs through there. Several other things would probably not be working properly if there was a problem in the box.

I also find it unlikely (but possible) that the ignition switch has gone out entirely, unless you had problems leading up to this. I doubt it would totally fail all at once.

My gut feeling is that you are going to find that someone has tapped into the starter signal wire, somewhere "downstream" from the ignition switch, and the connection has gone bad.

If it becomes too difficult to find the actual problem, you can always install a backup starter button, strictly to operate the starter. I had one mounted in place of my cigarette lighter for years, before I installed the relay system.

Good luck, keep us posted, I'm sure you can figure it out!

 

Hello Marc,

I believe this could be helpful
I can PM the diagram if necessary
I could come over to help, you live in a nice area, great roads
Maybe your 'girl' can wash my car in the mean time
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Frank's diagram shows everything you need to know about the factory wiring for the starter. In case you don't have a key for it:

15 is the ignition switch. The "B" wire (blanco/white) is the signal wire to the solenoid.
30 is the fuse/relay panel.
115 is the twist connector near the top of the left rear shock absorber.
78 is the starter.
16 is the battery.

 

Glad it's fixed

Now you can sell it and buy a 355

 

Didn't need an ignition switch, didn't need a relay, didn't need a starter, didn't need to be towed to the dealer, didn't need to pay someone else to fix it ........ I LOVE IT!

Good job, brother.