Ohm specs for 355 cat ecu thrmocouple? | FerrariChat

Ohm specs for 355 cat ecu thrmocouple?

Discussion in '348/355' started by f355spider, Jun 26, 2010.

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  1. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    May 29, 2001
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    What should I be reading on a good one? Trying to help a friend out...
     
  2. kiesan

    kiesan Formula 3
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    Nov 21, 2003
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    Kie Robertson
    Thanks Dave.

    Yeah, so if the thermocouple unit is cold and in proper working order, should you get continuity when probing the 2 wires with a tester?
     
  3. Mitch Alsup

    Mitch Alsup F1 Veteran

    Nov 4, 2003
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    A thermocouple is a battery not a resistance. It produces a voltage at certain temperatures and we find that the voltage change is very small (couple of dozen microvolts per deg C).

    http://www.picotech.com/applications/thermocouple.html

    Based on the charts given in link, looks like you are wanting something in the 30-60 mV range to fool the Exhaust computer. This is a low voltage in a noisy environment.

    The 94-95 exhaust computer is supposed to inform you when the cat gets to 1724+/-68 dF (940+/-20 dC) and tell you to slow down. The 96-99 exhaust computer uses 1720+/-86dF (938+/-30 dC). If the exhaust computer sees 1778dF for more than a couple seconds it cuts power to that bank. This is about 50dF change and results ina a change of thermocouple output of only a few millivolts.

    I wish I knew what kind of thermocouple these cars utilize.
     
  4. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    Warm I am reading between 9 and 10.5 on the left and right, and 8.5 on the center thermocouple.
     
  5. roadracer311

    roadracer311 Formula 3

    May 6, 2009
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    Ohms? Volts? I'm curious about the units in case I run into this in the future.
     
  6. eric355

    eric355 Formula 3
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    Nov 30, 2005
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    Eric DECOUX
    Hugh,
    as Mitch explained, an ohmic measurement is not relevant for a thermocouple check ... except if you get extra high reading which may indicates it is broken.
    A thermocouple is basicaly the welding of 2 different metallic and conductive wires, so you should read a low resistance value attesting that the 2 wires are not broken and are connected. So your measurement are fine.
    If you want to check it works, I would suggest to measure the voltage at the output of the cat "ECU". You should read #0.5V @ 300°C and #4.5V @ 1100°C with an almost linear curve in between.
     
  7. roadracer311

    roadracer311 Formula 3

    May 6, 2009
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    Paul
    There we go. Nice.
     
  8. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    MV
     
  9. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    With that method, how do I separate/confirm the proper operation of the cat ECU from the thermocouple?
     
  10. eric355

    eric355 Formula 3
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    You can try to swap the cat "ECU" ...
    If the continuity of your thermocouples is OK, they should be just fine. I cannot imagine any other failure mode of a thermocouple than a broken wire.

    If you really want to check the thermocouples themselves, you can use a DVM, some of them have a thermocouple input which will tell you they are alive, whatever the type they are.
     
  11. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    Got it, continuity present, then "okay". I have a fancy Fluke "true rms" meter...but god help me to figure out if I have that feature.... I am not an electrical engineer....;)
     

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