*SLAP* What works on my 328 is a cold pressure bleed -- I put a hand operated air pump over the expansion tank, give it a few psi, then bleed at radiator and thermostat. A critical feature, though, is to do this with the cabin heat on full. Otherwise you get air trapped in the heater cores that is lying in wait to jump into the system. I've seen any number of shops who forget to turn the heat on when doing the cooling system.
Okay, so I have a typical air compressor for light duty air nailing, it does have a pressure monitoring gauge, so I would take the air blower fitting, make a plastic cover for where I remove the rad cap, at the expansion tank, make a hole in the plastic cover for the air blower fitting to poke through, open both bleeders, and push how much pressure? PSI? Also this is with the car running, correct? Cold, it seems, and the heater controls pulled all the way back, fans on, for the heater? I've been driving mine a lot lately in the hot city traffic, my temp gagues, oil and water, both seem really high, but it hasn't overheated, maybe just inaccurate gagues, but still, I like to take precautions, this air blowing seems easy enough, just need a tiny bit of clarification on how to do it, espcially about what pressure should I set my compressure? Thanks!
What I did is that with the two caps opens at the radiators and the car off I inject air around 30 psi for a period of 10 seconds. After that I fill up the system again, start the car for 5 minutes and check the level. It was empty because of the air inside the system. I fill up it again and start the car again. I repeated that procedure until the car start showing normal operating and the reservoir was stable and full. So far so good.
David and Dennis, you are both missing the point and you methodology is seriously flawed. And putting 30 lbs of pressure in a cooling system designed for half of that is just plain dumb.
Ok Brian. Guide me on this. So what is the pressure that the tool mentioned before uses? If the system is opened on both ends the pressure doesn't really matter since the air is just pushing the fluid out is a very short period of time? Always learning with you on the hard way ;-)
The airlift tool does not put any pressure in the cooling system instead is draws 24-26 inches of vacuum. The theory is simple, draw a vacuum to pull out all the air ck to see if the system maintains that vacuum for several minutes (insure the integrity of the cooling system), and then open a valve the vacuum will pull in all the fluids from your source automatically.
Sheesh, and make sure you use it on any other cars you own. C'mon, you guys can't be serious. a good 'burp' of the cooling system is adequate. In a rear engine Ferrari where the engine sits higher than the radiator, jack up the rear end if you must, and add coolant until it comes out of the bleed screw at the radiator.
Where is the bleed screw by the radiator on the 360? The only bleed screw on the 360 I know of is right above the timing belt area and can only be accessed by removing the cabin access panel, as typical Ferrari fashion there are like 50 bolts to remove to get to it, + 7 more for the spider.
If it was really that easy in many modern cars there wouldn't be so many companies selling so many of those things to shops like mine. Prior to having that tool it took 2 of us about 20 minutes to properly fill a 360 and we had a huge mess when we were done.
I agree, but I think some posters are overly concerned about air in the cooling system. If you don't have a problem, don't try to create one.
