Sorry there was more helpful info and this is all relevant. You should torque diaphragm bolts to 1.5 dmNa I just do the middle ones of the 3 sets of 3 first to loosen and also leave these till last to tighten. I always use a clutch alignment tool - essential I think. Sometimes if it wont go on i start again and redo and sometimes it just slips on. But usually a bit of a struggle. put into neutral and turn flywheel back and forth. i also sometimes turn a wheel and have even put a strap around the whole assembly to tighten it up. Other option I've used is to put a couple of longer bolts in to start it off. You will know when its right and going. the foot kicking Im sure works just as well! If everything is flat in there you wont get much clutch smell when starting to use it. if you have a dished flywheel you will as it needs to burn off a bit of the outside first to get better grip.
That little cover with the horse on it stays right where it's at. Not a dumb question, I asked it last week as well.
A couple more random thoughts: 1) Mark where your exhaust bolts onto the main supports. We took a sharpie and drew a circle around where the 4 nuts were positioned. This is critical if you want it to line up as desired in the cut-outs of the bumper. 2) You definitely want someone to help get the rear bumper back on to ensure it's lined up properly. While you're under the car ready to tighten the main bumper bolts, get your friend to make sure things are lining up nicely and you've got good panel gaps. I'd do the top bolt on each side first - not too snug - because you want to have a little room to wiggle the bumper around and adjust. Once you've got it where you want, then snug down the top bolts and carry on. BTW, you will have noticed when removing the bumper that the main 4 bolts are a serious PITA to get at and deal with (they're so long and they take for freaking ever to get the nuts off). Cursing a lot will help...it did for me.
I use one of those what do you call thems? a battery powered torque driver with a 3 inch extension and I think if i remember right 17mm socket. This reaches the large nuts a treat and gets them off and on in milliseconds!
I have the bumper and exhaust system down pat, have had them off and on enough I think could do it in the dark, and yeah marking the exhaust is an excellent idea. Thanks a bunch to the both of you Terry
pap is there any adjustment required after fitting the new clutch (manual) or should I be able to just jump in and drive off , do I need to reset the ECU?
Terry - I'd be happy to loan you a Hill Engineering clutch alignment tool if you order the clutch through us. Both items in stock.
You may want to bleed the fluid a little just to make sure all ok, although I don't if it feels ok. otherwise its in and off. no ecu issue with manuals.
Terry, a 7/8 socket with a single strip of masking tape around it is as good as anything thats what I did and went in fine.
Try getting the L/H upper nut of if its an F1 because the F1 cover makes it nigh on impossible had to make up a special tool to do it.
Andrew or rick. I have pulled the cover and flywheel and pressure plate all came out still in the cover is it secured someway by the small horse cover or should I just turn it over and tap on it and hope that it just falls out Terry
If I am understanding you correctly, the entire clutch pack is still in the bell housing. This is normal, and it is attached with a bearing and large bolt under the "small horse" cover. No need to remove the cover or undo the bolt that secures the flywheel to the housing. If you have the bell housing laying flat with the horse cover side down, you will see something resembling the picture below. Not exactly like the pic since yours is a 355 clutch and the one pictured is a 348 clutch pack (removed from the housing), but close enough for our purposes. Ignore the black dildo-looking thing sticking up from the middle, that is a clutch spline alignment tool. Loosen the 6 large bolts around the circumference and then completely remove them. Now you will be able to pull out the layers of your clutch pack and get to the disc. As Rick said above, be sure to mark the orientation of each piece so you re-assemble it correctly. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Eric is right, you leave the flywheel attached to the bell housing. no need to remove that at moment, thats another story! the bolts you will see are allen key bolts, 9 of them around the edge of the clutch. look at it now and when apart for any signs of oil leaking. check if oil or brake fluid (mixes with water) or even grease. if any of these we can go to stage 2 then! by way, push the drive shaft back into gearbox if it has come forward during removal. then when disk is in your hands look at wear, if very heavy on edge again we can talk then. and remember, if your not relining and have bought a new one send me your old one will you? ta andrew
have got it apart, does not seem to have any scratches or oil there is 4-5 hot spots that are on the flywheel and PP it appears that I can just deglaze them install the new clutch and i am off and running...also the appears to be only a slight amount of edge wear. Terry
Agreed, only advice is that you check the springs it is not necessary to do any eloborate inspection but do check they are all in line and are strong, as this is something that can bite you. What you are saying about the marks on the fly wheel are normal just clean and re assemble. Andrew please let me know when the 'merchandise' has arrived. Dave ps: when you are puting the 'doughnut' back onto the gearbox have someone slowly rotate the assembly via the allen key guide you see in front, failure to do this brings my wife to heroine status as she did just that and claims all credit for doing the change, beware!!!!!!!
