CEL / Oil Pressure low?

Oil pressure seems a bit low to me. Should really be around first marker at idle.
What is CEL ?

 

The oil pressure sending units (located at base of oil filter) are known to fail and show low pressures at idle.
Replace it - see if that resolves it. You need to unscrew the oil filter in order to install it (filter is in way of getting wrench on base of sender). Easy to do, I f I remember right the sender from Ricambi is somewhere between $100-200 (forgot exact price). You may as well replace the oil & filter while you are at it- 5w40 aroun 11 quarts you need (I use redline)...

That hopefully will have you corrected-
Chris

 

Thanks Chris,
I'm planing on changing that sensor this weekend, too bad that I change the oil a month ago.
Also my oil temp Gage never reach the operating temp, it only reach a quater of the read. Any ideas?

 

Unsure on the oil temp sensor but that may also be showing a false reading..

When you do the Oil pressure sending unit, its easiest with a car on the lift- lower panel removed, standing under it reaching up from underneath on right side of motor you can get a clear shot at it.. If I remember right its a tight fit with wrench. Also when reattaching the sending units 2 wires.. go EASY on tightening those 2 leads... else you will find out that really tight is right before it turns really easy... (and having to order a second sending unit) The 2 leads are easy to get on/off from the top of the motor.

Here is link to part on Ricambi site:
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=679
Item #36 part# 135940 list price $121.89

 

Did you check the oil level ??? Sounds like you could be low on oil. That
would explain why the red light came on as well.......Check the oil level !!!!

 

like others said,first ck your oil level,you might be low.if the oil level is fine,take it asap

 

david - i had this same problem. the oil wouldnt heat up past 1/4 way. I installed a new oil temp sensor and that took care of it. Part# 104628. A whopping $18 for the part.

Hope this works!

Bobby

 

did you at least pull the codes for the CEL?

 

I must have been asleep when I replied yesterday AM & did not read your post all the way through-

The CEL & the issues you describe will not have anything to do with a faulty oil pressure sender... You need to get as said above the codes pulled from the computer... you have something very wrong & I would not drive it until she is resolved..

 

Thanks Bobby!

Hey where were you? So long without posting!!

 

If that belt jump a tooth, you will notice for sure!! Big damage, Big time!

 

This sounds like symptoms of a pre-cat failure.. oil pressure shouldn't go low unless something mechanical happens. It could have been because the engine was running at low rpm's.
If its not a precat failure it could be coil packs going bad. 2 at once would be sort of weird though.

What shop did you go to that said its the fuel injectors? Did they do any tests like compression or check for spark from the coils on those cylinders?

Good luck

 

this Is what I though at first, but then When he stated that the Tech said injectors it sort of makes sense, It is possible for that light to come on if the injector is not seated right (perhaps from a rough ride or vibration). make sure the connections are all good and the o rings around the injector are still sealing......

GL, I'm sure its nothing serious!

 

Cool! See, sometimes it's really easy -- and not worth worrying about until you find the real answer.

 

Good!!

I thought injectors sounded weird, this day and age injector failure is rare unless their has been contamination or long term non-use.

 

When I bought my car a year ago, the CEL came on. I ended up replacing the air filters and spark plugs, as well as cleaned the throttle bodies and mass air flow sensors. The codes thrown were that one bank was running rich and something else similar. After the above maneuvers, no codes have come on in 10 months (knock on wood.) I also added some techron fuel injector cleaner.

I have also replaced both the oil pressure sending unit and the oil temperature sending unit. They are cheap sensors and one is placed really close to the exhaust manifold and is notorious for burning out. Now, my gauges read perfect. My car is a 1999 360. Ferrari is not known for putting in high quality electrical sensors.

For the oil temp, one day driving it, the temp went from normal to the top of the guage in 2 seconds. I pulled over and turned the car off. I waited about 5 minutes, thought about the fact that 11 quarts of oil do not heat up 80 degrees in 2 seconds. I turned the car back on and the oil temp was normal again. I drove the car home and took it to the shop on Monday to have the sensor replaced.

For the pressure sensor, I had both very low and very high readings. Replaced it and it reads great. Both sensors had bad ohms when the tech tested them after they were out.

 

to continue this thread, Im too experiencing some sort of Oil Pressure malfunction. The sending unit looks original (as opposed the shiny version that Ricambi sells). The difference from my symptom that Im hoping someone has experienced is the following:

When first starting up the pressure reads how I would expect it to - mid range to higher range and doesnt drop below the bottom third of the dial reading. Once I am in the operating range of the engine temp the readings fall much lower and last night as a result I received the "slow down" constant (as opposed to the flashing typically representing the CAT ECUs). The oil light doesnt come on but it gets down to range close enough for the warning.

The oil was changed about 700 miles ago and it appears to be the black Ferrari oil filter. Also, there is only one lead coming from the Oil Pressure sensor, yet there are two leads coming off of it. The one that is receiving the wire is the bolted down lead - the other that looks like it would be the male end of an electrical lead doesnt have anything attached.

Finally, the thread shows the unit as $121.00 cost from Ricambi. And, while it was that price in 2010, it looks like its almost doubled - now showing $214.00. Is this considered a good price or should I try and source it somewhere else. And, in replacing it, can I get away with replacement of the filter without doing the oil (it looks like all of the oil in the filter would drain back in the motor during non-operation).

thanks for the help!