shock actuator

Yes, there are 4 I believe.

They are enclosed in a red plastic case that sits on top of each shock. If you look in the engine bay, you can see them.

 

If you remove the actuator from the shock you can see wether it is working.

First remove the clip holding the actuator on the shock.
Gently pull the actuator of the fitting.

Turn actuator upside down and get someone to turn the ignition key to the start position. You should be able to see the actuator go through a full cycle of rotating and stopping.

The one that does not rotate on switch on is the faulty one.

To get to the front actuators you need to remove the boot cover the rear ones are under the aluminium panels on the sides of the engine bay.

 

When you remove the red actuator motor check the condition of the little gear on top. If it looks ok, make sure it does not travel more than 90° from stop to stop. If it spins all the way around it needs to be replaced with one of these bad boys from Ricambi!!!

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=261324

 

There are worse things in life than having to check four parts. Who knows, you might find two bad or maybe just one bad and one on the way out. You might find some other unrelated problem(s) while "digging around."

Check the rears first. Easier to get to them and it could be assumed that "electrics" (the motor) and plastic (some of the gears) will fail sooner when subjected to higher levels of heat not to mention the greater possibility of dirt contamination, possible water entry or hardened grease. So..... the engine compartment versus the trunk/boot would be the place to start.

 

+1. I have had a couple suspension light issues in the past year, all were on the rear. I had an intermittently acting up left rear actuator (replaced) and more recently a bad gear on the top of the right rear shock (replaced gear). All good now.

 

Also, when you figure out which actuator is bad (assuming it's not one of the metal gears on top of the shocks themselves, as Goth pointed out), have it rebuilt by Captain Z. MUCH cheaper than straight replacement, lots of threads on this which give the website.

I had a front actuator go out this year, and got it repaired by CaptZ in a week's time, $150 vs a thousand for a new part, and it works perfectly. Used to get the suspension light flicker on occasionally before it lit up full-time. Now no suspension lights at all.

Good luck,

John

 

I just went through this last week myself and you can get to the two fronts without completely removing the cover. You just need to be careful that you don't over extend the cover but basically you remove the seal around the edge of the trunk and the frame for the ventilation system. Once you do that you can lift the cover up enough to get to the shock actuators and check them out.

 

Are you sure that doesn't just mean you have it in sport mode? There's a good thread here talking about that light - early 355's are different from later 355's, they changed the light on logic.

 

Great point!!!! The switch activated will turn the light on!

I don't know if illuminated light, is 'sport' or 'comfort' mode though ........

 

illuminated light F1 only Sport mode 98 - 99, all others are soft mode.

 

You can also take an automotive stethoscope, and "listen" to each. If there is either no rotation, or as in my case, the gears have come apart -- it will make no or a very different noise versus the other three.

Mine ended up being loose gears.

I have also heard that the Corvette has a similar GM part. Plug 'n play. Just blue versus red....so swap out the red ones which are under the covers, and put the Corvette blue in the non-visible spot.

The guy who bought my Mondial t cab took this approach.

 

ok

jf308 has a good post.