Hello All: I have a US 1984 308 QV that has developed an odd problem. Upon initial cold startup, the car starts and runs great. It races to its "hi idle" for a few minutes then settles down to about 1000 for a few minutes and all seems well. Then it will stumble badly and barely run and even stall. This behavior lasts for about 2 minutes and then it settle down to the normal 100 rpm and all is well at which point I can drive off. During this brief period of poor running and stumbling, I noticed that if I disconnect either the wire to the FV to disable it, or the electrical connecter to the temp switch on the overflow tank, the car will calm down and run nice. Anyone seen this issue ? The following items are new and have been replaced over the last year or so, so I dont think they are the culprit Water temp switch on overflow tank (brand new) thermo time switch behind oil filter protection relay for FV (FV buzzing away fine) new O2 sensor I suspect that either the oil temp switch or the WUR are perhaps the culprit ? Oleh
I am having a similar problem. My 84 308GTS when cold idles rough, I have to pat the throttle to keep it running. When it warms up it runs great. At idle it wants to cuts off, so I have to up the rpms with the gas pedal. HELPPPPPPPPPP. thanks Charles
I had a similiar problem with my 2V and Larry Fletcher found the pressures of the WUR to be off and rebuilt for me . All is fine now and his turn around time was great! Lost
Yep, I was going to say that you need to check the control and system pressures at the warm up regulator. If memory serves me, it should start out at 1.4 bar from dead cold and quickly rise to 3.5-3.8 bar as it warms. System pressure ought to be 5-5.5 I think. Cheers, Aaron
Just read this thread again. Sounds like perhaps you have a problem with the secondary air system not working correctly. When you disconnect the the coolant switch you are shutting off the electrovalve that supplies vacuum to the diverter valve. Just a thought ... Jeff
Funny, I'm having the same issue with my '86 328. Starts right up, fast idles, after a minute or two the idle starts to come down on its own, then after another minute or two or three, it starts to get lumpy. I give her a little gas, keep her going, and once she starts to really warm up, it smooths back out. She runs great on the road, plenty peppy, no issues with stumbling, loss of power, anything like that, once she's fairly warm. I just chalked it up to old technology, and figured as long as she starts up and she runs great once warm, it was just one of those old car annoyances. Any suggestion on the source of this and how to correct it would be appreciated.
When I had this issue it was caused by an air leak in the system (hole in a vacuum hose). The whole CIS warm-up goes to pot if there are air leaks. I've since also changed my ffuel injectors and injector seals & now I know there is no reason that a 308QV/328 will not/can not idle 100% evenly at 8-900rpm. So if I was hunting this one down I'd start with checking all the vacuum hoses & the CIS air hoses. Also check the throttle body is operating properly and that the butterfly is closing fully (and and not being held open by any dirt etc). Check the AAV under the expansion tank is operating as it should. Reset the idle properly when the engine is warm. Piece of paper in between the throttle screw and the stop till it just catches then + 1/2 turn. Then set the idle with the air idle screw. Thereafter I'd start looking at the fuel injectors and the injector seals & finally you'd come back to getting the WUR replaced/rebuilt. Of course my system has no emissions gear on it so that may be part of the issue & I gather the FV is a common culprit for those that have them.
+1. Well put. All that and checking the system pressures as Aaron suggested (or just go ahead and try a rebuilt WUR as you suggsted too). Along those lines, does anyone know of someone who rebuilds the 308 WUR for a reasonable cost? And, incidentally, "rebuilding" shoudn't consist of merely checking the pressures, cleaning up the case, and calling it "rebuilt". Or, is there a WUR for another car that sets the same fuel pressures across the range? In other words, same designed case, and same bi-metallic actuator.....
Many good suggestions here, and the minute my kids give me some peace, I plan to execute all of them. Cliff, Larry Fletcher (fletch62 here) is the man for WUR and FD rebuilds. I plan to send mine to him should my testing determine my WUR to be the culprit. My understanding is that these WUR's, although made by Bosch, are Ferrari-specific, hence their elusiveness on the parts market. So there does not seem to be a direct replacement from another application. Fear not however, Larry will set you up as good as new. Oleh
I had a bug like this and it took a long time to find the gremlin. It was the electrical connection to the WUR. The WUR gets heat from the engine, but it takes a long time. Longer than if it gets the electrical heating. I had to do some careful repair work to the connector on the WUR, and replace the harness connector. Fortunately, the Bosch connector was EZ to get and cheap from Global metric. It even was the proper color, and pretty ez to replace.
I found this pdf on Bosch WUR servicing, might be helpful if you like to DIY. http://www.jtresto.com/e21/WURServicing.pdf
Thanks Oleh, appreciate the reference to Larry. No doubt he's the man here! Will ping him. Mark, thank you to you also - that link/pdf is a great resource for background reading prior to opening up the WUR. Probably a winter project for me. Cheers.