F1 reverse problem

Probablt the Reverse switch. Had mine replaced twice.

 

+1
happened to me too.

 

pis could be set too low and clutch is still dragging.also clutch tends to drag with modified engine ecus more. not sure why.after flashing my ecus the car creeps forward with foot off of the brake and i have to put into 1st before reverse when cold.pis in trans is the same as before.its not that bad i can live with it for the extra power.

 

PIS is probably a tad bit on the low side. We typically run the PIS as low as possible till it starts to do your symptoms then back off. The programming has to be done when the car is cold for this as well. The reason you want as low a PIS as possible is for crisper shifting and less slipping when shifting gears. Too high a PIS will cause the clutch to wear faster.

I have one client that "requested" this low PIS value to where he has to put the car into 1st then back to R to get reverse. However, the car does not lurch forward or move, thats to much and will also wear the clutch prematurely.

His car is one of the better shifting 360's and he drives the piss out of the thing...I'm surprized its not back for a new clutch as he loves doing smokey burnouts....You know who your are my friend......;-)

 

Not sure how modifed engine would be different unless you have different flywheel and clutch setup. You should still have the same signals going to the Cambio TCU. I'd back off the PIS if you have the ability.

 

i had the motronic ecus reflashed by gmg in so cal.the pis is 3.9mm which is normal for a cs.set it to 4.2 mm the car still creeps but the clutch is mushy so i set it back to 3.9mm.my friend has a 05 spider and had his motronics reflashed by someone else and it does the same thing.maybe maybe the motronic is sending a different signal to tcu.i did the reflash @ 2 years ago wit 13k miles on it it has 18k now still original clutch so i guess its ok.the clutch is almost in need of replacing now.current clutch value is @ 19.8mm.

 

I think 3.9 is too low. Ferrari specs are between 4.0 and 5.5 for regular 360 the 5 range sucks.

4.3 is about as low you can go without getting creep. On early cars where the PIS has to be done automatically (old ecu and software) it is very hard to get a low PIS and why they feel mushy as you describe.

I did have to program a 2004 360 recently down to 3.8 to get it to shift decent, but that value was attributed to a it was due to a moving Clutch Positon Sensor magnet stalk from a wornout housing of the slave. After that was fixed the PIS was set at 4.44 and shifts very crisp and tight whereas before it was terrible at that value.

 

This problem happened to me yesterday, 1999 360 Modena, had the noise also. I ordered the reverse switch from Daniel at Recambi, hopefully it will take care of the problem. It happened when I was out for a drive. By the time I got home the check engine light came on.

 

My car is doing something similar, but only when cold or start up. Once warm my 2001 shifts into reverse just fine. Is there anything I should check? Shouldn't we be able to fix the switch? $3200 for a new switch seems pretty steep for only 6000 miles of use?

 

Bumped for responses

 

i have the same problem mate, but sometimes it works just fine.. i just put up with it.. ive only had the car a few weeks tho..

 

I agree. 3.9 is way to low, and getting reverse will probably end up being difficult, plarticularly once it's had a good drive then a hot-soak. I've seen a lot of issues arise where the new closed-clutch position hasn't been reset after a clutch was replaced, then p.i.s wound back to cover up poor selection or creep. Also had a fair few bearings sticking when hot, even with the later type seals.

 

I have the same problem and have been through upteem thousand different fixes. Told now that the actuator needs repairing which is very expensive. It apparently was not the PIS, no the clutch, not the reverse switch, not the synchros, and not the ECU. Anyone else out there had this problem who actually KNOWS for sure what this issue is and how to fix it????

 

every car is slightly different. Is the actuator aligned and bled correctly, is the T/O bearing leaking, is the F1 pump weak, what are the pressure values of the system. There is lots it could be but air in the hydrolic system is the most common "fix" we do here after the basic "i broke the shifter off" complaint.

 

The F1 pump has been checked already and the pressure is great. The only thing I can think of now is the actuator. That is the only thing left.