F355 University

The list of things piling up to do on my F355 has been growing -- some is just "due" and other stuff is self-inflicted or optional. All of it should make for a F355 that is better than when it rolled out of the factory.

The best part is that I've talked my mechanic into letting me participate in the job. I'll be taking a week (minimum) of vacation and assisting with the work under expert guidance and with all the right tools.

I plan to share as much of the experience as possible through write-ups and photos. Right now, everything is tentatively scheduled for the first week in October.

I'm really excited about my unusual vacation plans...now, what do I tell my wife?

Here's the list of jobs to perform (4-6 will get done by pros while I focus on mechanicals):

1 - 30k major engine out service
2 - upgrading to Dave Helms' coolant hoses and clamps
3 - upgrading to Dave Helms' gold connector kit for 2.7 Motronic
4 - redoing the dash, gauge pod and door pulls either in original black leather or possibly Alcantara (a la Bradan's bespoke interior project)
5 - repaint the targa panel
6 - mount 2 new rear tires
7 - inspecting the Capristo exhaust for stuck bypass valves or vacuum leak

So, watch this space for updates, pics, tips, questions, etc.

 

Yeah, I picked it up in Dec 09 and it was due in a year at that time (good memory) - or right about now. I'm very grateful you didn't move too fast on this one!

 

Some of the goodies have arrived in anticipation of next week.

- 2 new rear PS2s - I will have to do a few burnouts before I put the new shoes on.

- Care package from Scuderia Rampante Innovations containing:
-- Gold connector kit with O2 sensor option
-- Coolant hoses and clamps

Sorry I did not open everything for some better pics but there are so many little pieces that I didn't want to run the risk of losing something. Promise more interesting pics to come...just getting warmed up.
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101Y XL - which happened to match what was already on the car.

 

Ok, I got a head-start and began ripping and replacing some of the coolant hoses that had been leaking since I replaced the power steering resevoir a few weeks ago. I want to be able to drive to the SoCal get together this Saturday, ya know!!

I've attached a couple pics.

One is of the 4 hoses (both old and new sets) that connect to the coolant overflow tank. You'll also note the famed Stooge aluminum viking hat.

The other pic is of one of the hoses which gets threaded through the braided hoses (fuel lines right?). Note the sleeve on the SRI hose...I presume I placed it correctly as my assumption it was to protect against rubbing/fraying. Please let me know if you see anything incorrect.

I got it all back together but didn't have time to re-add fluids (coolant, PS fluid) and test it out tonight. I'll get to it tomorrow morning and let you all know. Just slightly concerned that I wasn't able to tighten one of the lower hoses as well as I'd like but I think it'll be fine.

I must say, the SRI hoses and hardware were like a dream to work with compared to the stock stuff.
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Thanks Dave.

I should probably just add "Fuel Block recall" to my list right now. I did get that screw/clamp in a vertical (almost underside) position on the hose with the sleeve for the very reason you stated. The top large hose clamp is distressingly close to the lines as you mention. That is the screw I'm concerned I could not get tight enough. It was tough to get the screw/clamp in there far enough to be effective without damaging the lines that it snugs up against.

With respect to the tightening of the clamps, I may go back in and give them another turn or five. My natural inclination is to tighten the heck out of things (and this has ended badly for me several times) but in this instance I actually backed them off a bit because I was concerned I had gone too far.

How do you know when tight is tight enough with this kit?

PS I'm glad the hoses were just a fraction longer than the original ones. This made it easier to get hoses *all the way on* and I think the extra force pushing the hose back onto its connection points would help keep them in place in the event a clamp failed. I assume this was all by design.

 

I opened her back up to check clamp positions and tightness.

I was able to crank all of the clamps down pretty tight - except for one - more on that in the next post.

Here are a couple shots of the clamps so you can get an idea of how far I tightened them.

I refilled the coolant and PS fluid and fired it up until the radiator fans came on for a couple cycles. No visible leaks or anything (so far! ). Will have to take for a short test drive to really put it through its paces.

NOTE: For anyone else replacing these 4 coolant hoses with the engine in-situ, it's actually not required to remove the Power Steering tank. I thought it would be necessary so I pre-emptively syringed out all the fluid. When I dug in it became obvious that all I really needed to do was remove the PS tank clamp to give myself a little working room.
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Here's the one clamp that's a real bugger (shiny one right in the middle of pic).

I couldn't get it any tighter than it already is...I probably don't have the right/best tool (was using a long flat screwdriver on this one).

You also have to balance the position of this clamp carefully...I think I got it about perfect but only wish I could have tightened it further.
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I backed the car out of the garage into the driveway - which has a very slight slope to it. I set the parking brake and to be extra careful I went and stuck a steel wheel chok under the driver front wheel.

After running the car a while in the driveway, I looked at my watch and realized I was late for a phone call. Time to hustle. I hop in and pull forward a few feet...AAAACKK!! WTF was that?!? Oh yeah...the wheel chok, dumazz!!!

Here's a pic of what the rear tire did to the wheel chok. Tire didn't burst but I'm sorta afraid to go look in the garage now (an hour later) - worried there might be a slow leak.

Good thing I've got 2 brand new rear tires ready to go on.
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Went for a shakedown drive on my personal 7 mile test-loop through some local backroads and happy to report that all is A-OK. Kept waiting to see a blue-green streak on the pavement in the rear-view mirror but it never happened. The tire is fine too.

Still though, I will probably ask a neighbor to borrow a flex shaft nut driver to get after that bugger of a clamp.

 

Whoa...I can barely change my coolant hoses...if Dave Helms can't point you in the right direction, I'm sure I won't be any help. The only tip I have for you is to give GT Car Parts a call - they're based in Arizona and don't have a website but believe you can find their phone # by googling them.
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Had some scheduling challenges so the work will begin in earnest on Oct 11.

The very interesting development is that it turns out that the mechanic I will be working with actually rebuilt my engine about 4 years ago (under someone else's ownership). It was a $25k service...something I guess you don't forget...anyway, he recognized the car. Is this what they call serendipity?

Anyway, nice to have the car's "original surgeon" leading me through the major.

 

Well, we got underway with the serious stuff yesterday. Started around 8.30 and had the engine out of the car by about 2 pm - I'm not sure if that's quick or not but it was faster than I expected.

John, the mechanic, moves through the steps so fast it's hard for me to keep up with what he's doing and capture key photos or notes. Plus, I'm always trying to lend a hand or do entire portions myself. Not to mention the various 'gopher' tasks I'm happy to complete - parts washing, etc. All part of being the apprentice.

Today, as it turns out, I'm going to stay mostly out of John's hair while he does the meat of the service on the engine - and I'll focus on the gold connector upgrade. I cannot tell you how many of the connectors have torn rubber boots on them - probably a good 75% of them. Torn and ripped so badly that there's no telling what grime/dirt/crud is lurking inside.

BTW, public thanks and recognition to 3forty8 for stopping by over the weekend to walk me through a live demo / tutorial on how to do the Helms connector upgrade.

It's been great so far to be there during the process - learning, asking lots of dumb questions and actually helping a good bit. An extra pair of eyes is helpful as well - managed to point out a couple things that didn't look right and turned out they weren't.
Included a bunch of photos here. Mostly self explanatory but I'll come back and comment if any questions.
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