Doesn't look like it's going anywhere.
Honesly PAP, I don't think it will move much further - I tried to smack it a few more times and that is as far as it will go. I know it looks as though there is still a gap, but there isn't - it is metal on metal, have a look at the pic and I drew in red the outline of the part that is touching. It is as tight as the one on the left side. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lou, if you look at the area circled in red - compare the first pic to the second pic - in the first pic you can see the gap, right underneath the " I---I " I sprayed in red, and in the second pic that gap is gone. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks - and I checked to see if either of the radiators were leaking, and they were not, so that means I did the job right
Good question - well, my package from Ricambi is due to arrive today. I have one more part (a $4 O Ring that I found I needed AFTER Daniel sent me my stuff, which I ended up finding locally), so that part should arrive tomorrow. I am hoping to have it done by Wednesday at the latest, that will have me ready to run it hard this weekend after this two-week lock-down.
Well looky here, a box has arrived with the parts I need to stop this darn leak -- Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wait a second, upon close inspection, I don't think these will stop a leak - will they?!? -- Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Since my stallion is being good to me during this repair, and it turned out to be only a few worn out seals and not anything terribly expensive to repair, I decided to treat it (and me) with some cosmetic dress up...but please keep it a secret, she doesn't know yet. On a serious note, here are the seals that arrived - these turned out optional to replace as my originals were all in good condition...HOWEVER, since I am in there let's settle all the rubber, that way I know in the future that it was all done at the same time and then I can replace them all again, as it wouldn't make sense to replace to replace some now and some later...all for under $100. The seal that needed the replacement is not among these pics, I already installed them. In the bottom right corner are the infamous triple seals. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here are the two seals that I ended up replacing. Pic # 1 is a shot of the entire TO Bearing just so you know what you are looking at in the close-ups of pic # 2 and pic # 3 In pic # 2, this is the $9.27 seal that needed replacing. In pic # 3, my original seal was still in excellent shape, but for $15 I decided to replace it anyways. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here you can see where the rubber has been totally eaten away. Look at pic # 1 - this is my original seal - look at the area between the red lines. Now look at pic # 2, that lip that is protruding precisely where the red arrow is pointing is the area that was eaten away in pic # 1. -- Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Okay, now look very closely at this little unit. Tell me what you think it is. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you guessed that it was a typical binder....you are WRONG. It is in fact a Triple Seal Installer DISGUISED as a binder What you do is wrap it around the clutch shaft and mark it so that you can cut it to the almost perfect size...better a hair smaller than larger, because if it is oversize then they ends will overlap and then it will be harder to push the seal on. I simply used a sharpie to mark the size it needs to be cut (the little black line above my thumb you see there) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next, I used the dental pic/dental scaler to remove the old seals. I simply tugged on them until they stretched out enough to cut them off. Be VERY CAREFUL not to scratch the metal, you definitely need a steady hand for this part. If you want to be safe, use a plastic or wood so that you cannot scratch the inside of those grooves. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next, I took that tube I made from the binder and put the first triple seal on it for installation. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now here is where I almost had a heart attack. Why you ask? After forcing these seals on, they were stretched and were on very loose. I thought I destroyed them, but it turns out this is perfectly normal and after installation you have to squeeze and squish them back down. Here you can see how loose and large they become. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
So this is what I did to squeeze them back down to size so that they become snug in their groove. I took that tube made from binder material, wrapped it around the seals, then tighted a hose clamp around them to get them back down to size. I must give Daniel (TheItalianJob here on FChat) for giving me the idea for this. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
For the record, I swear that it is pure coincidence that the floor jack, jack stands, Triple Seals Installer disguised as a binder, and my 348 are ALL YELLOW!!!