Leak underneath clutch - help

Lou, not a stupid question at all. Have a look at the picture here, you will notice that the diameter of the inside of the seal is smaller than the diameter of the clutch shaft. You have to really force it on, but at the same time being very careful. The seal ends up stretched oversize, then you have to shrink it again (as per my demonstration above with the tube of plastic and the hose clamps in post # 174 above. The second with the paint shows the area I am referring to, the first pic is without the paint so you can see it clearly.
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Ok, so I replaced all the seals, put the clutch back together, but I think I have a serious problem....I have a bunch of parts left over, WHAT THE F?*%??!!?? Help please

Ernie, when you said "it is just nuts and bolts", I didn't think it was this many!!!

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On a more serious note, I put it all back together yesterday successfully, took it for a long overdue run, everything felt good.

Putting the pumpkin back on was not very easy, but eventually we got it back on.

Before I give a summary, here are the triple seals after working them back down to size. They look much better here, compared to how big and stretched out they were when initially installed.

The third pic is me pressing up on them from the bottom as hard as I could to show that they fit, otherwise the top of them would ride higher (go back to the previous page and compare them to when they were first installed and you will see what I mean)
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LMAO ....you are a Stooge in the making!!

 

Here is the cosmetic update - Ernie, you are right, these did not stop the leak .

I apologize about the poor lighing.
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Okay, for all of these parts, pls refer to this diagram:

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?V=diag&I=223

These are all of the seals I replaced, but not all of them needed replacing. They are pennies in cost compared to what the job would cost if you were to take it in to a service shop and have it done, so sure I probably over-repaired in some areas but I figured that if I was already in there why not replace as many seals as I can access. I will specify what was mandatory and what was optional (well, there really was only one mandatory seal to replace, the rest were in near perfect condition):

137249 - Triple Seals - $13.95 per seal, you need three of them, total $41.85 - these were optional, as mine were in excellent shape, but I replaced mine anyways while I was in there.

121813 - O Ring Sealing Gasket - 33 cents each, qty 2 - these were optional, as mine were in good shape

151822 - Gasket - (inside TO Bearing) - $21.94- MANDATORY - this is the seal that was causing the leak, it was chewed up, and the lip on it that does the actual sealing was eaten away. So in other words, this entire job could have cost me only $21.94 plus a bottle of brake fluid ($8 or $10) but again I replaced most of the seals in that area regardless.

139438 - Gasket (inside TO Bearing) - $9.27 - optional, as mine was in near perfect condition

131651 - Sealing Ring - $34.95 - optional to replace, mine was in good shape.

There you have it. $108.67 worth of seals, but only $21.94 of that was the real problem and the other $86.73 was optional. That sure sounds a lot better than a few thousand dollars it would have cost if it were the TO Bearing.

 

Now for a list of tools:

13mm socket

13mm wrench (or spanner, whatever the heck you want to refer to it as)

13mm stubby wrench (you will definitely need one of these if you do not remove the bumper for this job)

10mm socket

10mm wrench (or spanner)

8mm socket or 8mm wrench

a few extension bars, and a universal joint OR wobble extension bar

Believe it or not, that is all you need....oh, actually, I forgot one important device - you CANNOT do this job without this:



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This is the order I did this in:

1) 10mm socket and extension bar with U-Joint OR wobble extension bar to remove the heat shields.

2) 13mm socket and 13mm wrench to remove nuts that hold the bumber up top. Socket on one side, wrench on the other side, otherwise you will be perpetually trying to loosen.

3) Use your floor jack to support and hold the bumper up (or you can stack a set of boxes, whatever you can do to hold that bumper up while you loosen these because they will the muffler will be held up by the cats and you will bend the heads).

***step 4 are instructions for a single can muffler - for dual can, see Ernie's 348 Clutch Removal thread here:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296274

4) With the muffler being held up after loosening those fasteners in step 3, here is where you loosen the muffler from the cats. 13mm wrench on one side of the fasteners, and a 13mm stubby wrench on the other (it is tight with the bumper still on, hence the need for a stubby). For this, you will be laying on the floor on your back, so when the fasteners are off you can grab the muffler from the bottom, as if you are bench pressing it, then you need to get whatever is supporting it/holding it up out of the way so you can lower the muffler down to your chest and then you need to wiggle your way out from under the car and slowly bring that can down and out. Once you get this far, the pumpkin is right there ready to be turned into a Jack-O-Lantern

5) 8mm wrench or socket to remove the 4 nuts from the inspection plate, located right at the bottom of the pumpkin (the plate is perforated)

5) 13mm socket will get the 6 nuts off the pumpkin, but just before that you will need to remove the retaining bracket for the one of the lines that are attached to one of these 6 nuts on the pumpkin - and for this retaining bracket you will need a 10mm socket or 10mm wrench.

6) once these 6 nuts are off, you can pull the pumpkin off and voila, everything is right there. The pumpkin will need a little bit of force, just be careful and wiggle it a little from each side at a time and also from the top and bottom.

7) 10mm socket with an extension to loosen the 2 nuts on the retaining bracket that holds the Throw Out Bearing in place. It is not necessary to entirely remove these, you can simply loosen them enough to lift it up a bit in order to slide the TO Bearing off.

8) 13mm socket with extension bar to remove the Support Bushing Flange, and then you have access to the 2 little O Rings that are 33 cents each.

Took me about 1 hour to do all this, and I have never worked on any car in my entire life.

Took about 5 or 10 minutes to replace all the seals, and then about an hour to put it all back together.

So this should be some encouragement to anyone who is afraid to take a wrench to their Ferrari for a job such as this one.

It takes the will, the patience, the encouragement of other FChat members, and of course the remarkable guidance of the technical experts of the 348 Brotherhood.

Thank you to all who posted here, whether it was with words of encouragement, or technical/mechanical assistance - each and every post was valuable and contrbuted to me being able to settle this in my garage.

One last thing, the bleeding of the clutch was something I could not do on my own, I had a colleague who is a very shrewd mechanic do it for me, but here is the process;

He would yell "pump" and I would pump the clutch 4 or 5 times, then he would yell "hold" and I would hold it down to floor as far as it would go while he did the bleeding.

We had to repeat this procedure about 6 or 7 times before I finally got my clutch back. At first I thought it was never gonna come back, but eventually it got stiffer and stiffer until it was back to normal.

 

Thanks guys.

If anyone ever has to do this job, please know that you may contact me anytime, anyway you wish to discuss and hopefully be of some assistance to you.

 

Just a quick update. For the first 20-25 miles after re-installing the clutch, I found that it was very grabby, and very difficult to engage first gear without it being jumpy. I even tried riding the clutch a bit to get a smooth engaging of first gear, but no dice. But after 20-25 miles, it seemed to have corrected itself, and is now feels exactly the way it did before the job.

I am not sure if this is normal, perhaps some experts can chime in and explain?

 

Yeah, it was really strange PAP - like a beginner learning how to drive 5-speed for the first time, and letting clutch out too far and too quick in first gear causing the car to jerk and jump. But it is back to normal now