40 DCNF cadmium plating question

Below is the first disassembled 40 DCNF (#47) that I am rebuilding.

To the left of the screwdriver, in the red box, are the parts I have selected for cadmium plating. Except for the cotter-pins, does this look incorrect to anyone?

What about the nut in the blue square that goes to the fuel feed tube?

I'd like to do the lever indicated by the pink arrow too, but; 1) I'm not quite sure how to separate it from the body, and certainly I don't want to damage it by doing so.

This is carb #47 on my set, and #45 has the remainder of the linkage mechanism that connects the two sets of carbs and that will also be plated. So, there are other linkage parts too, that are located on the other carbs and look slightly different for the linkage, but basically it's pretty much the same.

So... What are your thoughts?

Thanks.
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And here's the answer !

Thank you Eric.
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Just curious what does the cadmium plating achieve?

 

Good corrosion resistance, cathodic protection of steel, galvanic compatibility with aluminum, excellent lubricity, and freedom from gummy and voluminous corrosion products.

 

Looks like fun!! I wish i had done the plating when I did mine earlier in the year.

on a related note, looks like you have a lean cylinder.

 

Cadmium plating replaces the bright gold finish to all of the linkage parts, screws and nuts.

Because: After all, asthetics are important too!

 

Yes. I noticed that too - backfiring though the cylinder. Hopefully, that's all it is. The carbs were maladjusted when I got the car. It ran okay, but I followed Birdman's recommendation and;

1) closed all the air jets
2) balance the air-flow for only those carbs that needed it
3) re-adjust the mixture with colortue plugs

I only drove the car for a month after I got it. On the drive down from Oregon, it ran on the freeway like a dream. But at stop-lights, it was very rough. I smoothed it out some and adjusted the mixture using colortune plugs. I don't know if that cylinder was already lean or not. One other venturi is the same, though not quite as bad.

In my original thread on #10314, I noted the changes I made to each cylinder. So it'll be interesting to go back to that thread at some point and see if the black venuri is a cylinder that I found way out of adjustment.

 

Here's the before picture. I'll post the after (hopefully) in about a month.
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Carbs looking pretty clean as they are. No need to pull the lead plug out I assume?

 

Are you sure that it should be Cadmium? A lot of these things are plated with zinc and then passivated (which gives the gold colour). Usually less expensive & also much easier to get done too.

 

No. They guys at Weber Direct (just came back from their shop) say just leave 'em in place. In fact,they don't even remove the butterfly's, shafts and bearing when they dip them, as part of a rebuild. I'm not having them do it, alhough in the end it may turn out to have been a less expensive option. The purpose of this exercise is for me to get more familiar with the carbs. So, I may just dip them in carb cleaner (I bought 2gal the other day) and then hit them with a little phosphoric acid on the outsde and call it, "good".

Or find a shop locally here in Canyon Country that can elecltro-whateveryoucallit-dip-them... I dunno, I may do that, I may not. I haven't decided yet. Although I'm about to head over to a place a few blocks from here called R2 to ask them about some place local.

Yes. Cadmium is what is normally done.

 

Met Robert and Rafi <Thinking look=" ">Small World</Thinking>

 

David,

Looks great I am getting ready to start mine and just curious where you got your colortune kit, and were you happy with it?? Look forward to seeing your car and hope now that i hope to be running we can get a GT4 reunion together???

Rob
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Eastwood has a "home plating" kit made by Caswell if you're interested in doing it yourself. A little complicated but cost effective. Generally plating shops require a minimum of $75 -$100 even if you're just doing a handful of small parts. Some shops won't touch restoration parts because they've had the not fun experience of getting sued for losing or screwing up somebody's one of a kind NLA part

 

The reason I asked about the Colortune, on Amazon the feedback on the colortune was mostly negative with one buyer who works at a lab said it ruined his plug threads and after measuring the tool it was not consistent with any metric or SAE standard. I would rather wing it then destroy a thread in my head?????