40 DCNF cadmium plating question | FerrariChat

40 DCNF cadmium plating question

Discussion in '308/328' started by DavidDriver, Oct 17, 2010.

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  1. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

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    #1 DavidDriver, Oct 17, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Below is the first disassembled 40 DCNF (#47) that I am rebuilding.

    To the left of the screwdriver, in the red box, are the parts I have selected for cadmium plating. Except for the cotter-pins, does this look incorrect to anyone?

    What about the nut in the blue square that goes to the fuel feed tube?

    I'd like to do the lever indicated by the pink arrow too, but; 1) I'm not quite sure how to separate it from the body, and certainly I don't want to damage it by doing so.

    This is carb #47 on my set, and #45 has the remainder of the linkage mechanism that connects the two sets of carbs and that will also be plated. So, there are other linkage parts too, that are located on the other carbs and look slightly different for the linkage, but basically it's pretty much the same.

    So... What are your thoughts?

    Thanks. :)
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  2. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

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    #2 DavidDriver, Oct 17, 2010
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  3. Fave

    Fave F1 Rookie

    Aug 12, 2010
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    Just curious what does the cadmium plating achieve?
     
  4. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
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    Good corrosion resistance, cathodic protection of steel, galvanic compatibility with aluminum, excellent lubricity, and freedom from gummy and voluminous corrosion products.
     
  5. Sledge4.2

    Sledge4.2 F1 Rookie

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    Looks like fun!! I wish i had done the plating when I did mine earlier in the year.

    on a related note, looks like you have a lean cylinder.
     
  6. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

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    #6 DavidDriver, Oct 17, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2010
    Cadmium plating replaces the bright gold finish to all of the linkage parts, screws and nuts.

    Because: After all, asthetics are important too! :D
     
  7. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

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    #7 DavidDriver, Oct 17, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2010
    Yes. I noticed that too - backfiring though the cylinder. Hopefully, that's all it is. The carbs were maladjusted when I got the car. It ran okay, but I followed Birdman's recommendation and;

    1) closed all the air jets
    2) balance the air-flow for only those carbs that needed it
    3) re-adjust the mixture with colortue plugs

    I only drove the car for a month after I got it. On the drive down from Oregon, it ran on the freeway like a dream. But at stop-lights, it was very rough. I smoothed it out some and adjusted the mixture using colortune plugs. I don't know if that cylinder was already lean or not. One other venturi is the same, though not quite as bad.

    In my original thread on #10314, I noted the changes I made to each cylinder. So it'll be interesting to go back to that thread at some point and see if the black venuri is a cylinder that I found way out of adjustment.
     
  8. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

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    #8 DavidDriver, Oct 17, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  9. Sledge4.2

    Sledge4.2 F1 Rookie

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    Carbs looking pretty clean as they are. No need to pull the lead plug out I assume?
     
  10. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
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    Are you sure that it should be Cadmium? A lot of these things are plated with zinc and then passivated (which gives the gold colour). Usually less expensive & also much easier to get done too.
     
  11. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

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    #11 DavidDriver, Oct 18, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2010
    No. They guys at Weber Direct (just came back from their shop) say just leave 'em in place. In fact,they don't even remove the butterfly's, shafts and bearing when they dip them, as part of a rebuild. I'm not having them do it, alhough in the end it may turn out to have been a less expensive option. The purpose of this exercise is for me :) to get more familiar with the carbs. So, I may just dip them in carb cleaner (I bought 2gal the other day) and then hit them with a little phosphoric acid on the outsde and call it, "good".

    Or find a shop locally here in Canyon Country that can elecltro-whateveryoucallit-dip-them... I dunno, I may do that, I may not. I haven't decided yet. Although I'm about to head over to a place a few blocks from here called R2 to ask them about some place local.


    Yes. Cadmium is what is normally done.
     
  12. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

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    #12 DavidDriver, Oct 18, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2010
    Met Robert and Rafi <Thinking look=" :rolleyes: ">Small World</Thinking>
     
  13. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
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    #13 robertgarven, Jul 27, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    David,

    Looks great I am getting ready to start mine and just curious where you got your colortune kit, and were you happy with it?? Look forward to seeing your car and hope now that i hope to be running we can get a GT4 reunion together???

    Rob
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  14. shawxhurst

    shawxhurst Formula Junior

    Nov 6, 2006
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    Eastwood has a "home plating" kit made by Caswell if you're interested in doing it yourself. A little complicated but cost effective. Generally plating shops require a minimum of $75 -$100 even if you're just doing a handful of small parts. Some shops won't touch restoration parts because they've had the not fun experience of getting sued for losing or screwing up somebody's one of a kind NLA part
     
  15. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
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    The reason I asked about the Colortune, on Amazon the feedback on the colortune was mostly negative with one buyer who works at a lab said it ruined his plug threads and after measuring the tool it was not consistent with any metric or SAE standard. I would rather wing it then destroy a thread in my head?????
     

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