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Bigger Banjos

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by SMS, Oct 13, 2010.

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  1. SMS

    SMS F1 Veteran

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    #1 SMS, Oct 13, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Does anyone know of a dual banjo fitting for 308 Webers that will allow a larger free flowing supply line like a 3/8" id to be used? Maybe from some other model? In the aftermarket I'm finding some, but they are for braided steel hoses. My variable pressure boost compensating system requires less restriction past the carbs than I have. Drilled out the bolt holes a bit and indexed the hole to line up with the hose, but need a bit more. Thanks.


    (This good looking pic is from an engine picture thread, not mine)
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  2. SMS

    SMS F1 Veteran

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    Bump. Married white male who enjoys long drives in the country and working on cars seeking bigger banjo.
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Can't help with your quest, but would like to understand your problem better. Are you saying that the upstream carbs are so thirsty that the 7/8 carb doesn't receive enough fuel or that you'd just like the volume of recirculated fuel to be larger (and you've already removed the orifice restriction at the 7/8 carb exit)?
     
  4. SandSpike

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  5. SMS

    SMS F1 Veteran

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  6. SandSpike

    SandSpike Rookie

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    #6 SandSpike, Oct 20, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2010
  7. SMS

    SMS F1 Veteran

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    #7 SMS, Oct 20, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    7/8 carb is getting enough fuel. Restriction orifice is removed. The regulator is such that with the adjustment screw all the way out, I can still only get my pressure down to 4.8 psi. If I disconnect the line upstream of any carb, and free flow out of the hose, I'm at 1 psi +/-. Then adding carb fittings each increases the line restriction resulting in the final 4.8. I want it to be below 3 fully hooked up, then use the regulator adjusting screw to set 3.5 or 4 under idle/ normal driving conditions. The boost port acts upon the regulator diaphram to raise the pressure on a 1/1 ratio, so I'll always then have 3.5 psi higher than the boost achieved, and return to 3.5 when I get off the throttle.
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  8. SMS

    SMS F1 Veteran

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    #8 SMS, Oct 20, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Good thought.

    That is similar to what I did when I replaced the 7/8 restriction fitting with a Tee, then adapted to hose ends. I could do the same on the other right carb, but no room for the Tees on the left side carbs. That or change it all to race car braided stuff.
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  9. jimpo1

    jimpo1 Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #9 jimpo1, Oct 20, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  10. SMS

    SMS F1 Veteran

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    #10 SMS, Oct 20, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    That thing has only 3 strings. How the heck do you play that?
    Besides, it looks like it would be a fire hazard. Say, have you ever seen a wooden F50?




    Here is SMS with a traditional size Gibson RB3 5 string. :)
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  11. jm3

    jm3 F1 Rookie

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    I think you may be avoiding "steel braided hose", simply to keep the appearance traditional.
    However, it is magnitudes more reliable and safe than a rubber fuel line, 10% ethanol and Chinese hose clamp combo.

    You can buy black hose with black/silver anodized AN fittings from XRP, which is my favorite source. In a pinch, you can use heatshrink tubing over -6 hoses, and look "period correct".

    [​IMG]

    http://www.xrp.com/index.htm


    JM3
     
  12. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Interesting problem, and the sketch is great, but I have a few more questions:

    1. I'm used to a "regulator" being a device that keeps its output pressure constant regardless of the inlet pressure and regardless of the flow rate passing thru it. The device you show/describe seems to be something where you can adjust it to achieve a given inlet pressure when the outlet is at zero pressure and leaking at rate X. Then, as boost is applied, it becomes more restrictive, raising the inlet pressure, and reducing the outlet flow to Y while the outlet pressure is still zero -- is this a correct rough understanding?

    2. You mention that if you remove the supply line from the 5/6 carb, the pressure gauge reads ~1 psi. What is the flow rate out of the supply hose in this condition?

    3. I think you state that, if you remove the line from 7/8 carb that enters into the "regulator", the pressure gauge reads ~4.8 psi, Is that correct? What is the flow rate out of the hose in this condition?

    4. What is the maximum fuel flow rate that you believe the engine needs?

    My gut feel is just that your pump is too large, and you would be recirculating a lot of fuel needlessly. However, if the flow rates in #3 and #4 aren't very different, then you are between a rock and a hard place, and would have to do something to reduce the pressure drop in the carb banjo fittings; otherwise, each carb would be operating at fairly different inlet pressures. Anyway, if you got the time would love to more about what you're doing...
     
  13. SMS

    SMS F1 Veteran

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    THAT, is perfect. Braided steel and AN fittings for flow and safety, black and silver to aviod the boy racer ricer look of blue and red fittings. Thanks.
     
  14. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Had another thought that you might be better off using an architecture more like the K/KE-Jets where the fuel pump supplies the regulator directly (which recirculates a big flow back to the tank) and then the engine supply is "Teed" of the inlet to the regulator (where you would use the stock orifice at the 7/8 carb outlet and recirculate that small flow back to the tank as well). I'm out for a few hours, but will post a sketch later.
     
  15. SMS

    SMS F1 Veteran

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    #15 SMS, Oct 20, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2010
    #1. Correct

    #2. Pump is rated at 100 gph, so except for some minor hose reduction, that is likely the flow, but I have not checked it at the end of the hose.

    #3. When the line is hooked up to the regutator, everything in place and circulating per my sketch, but the regulator adjusting screw all the way out, I'm at 4.8.


    Here is my pump:
    http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4601HP/10002/-1?parentProductId=748050

    And my regulator, with various sytem layour diagrams:
    http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/4309.pdf

    Not sure what the full demand calculates to, but it will now run to redline with 6 lbs boost and not starve or run lean. Plugs look good. Pulls strong. Just seeking the peace of mind that comes with no flooding or issues related to excessive fuel pressure.
     
  16. jimpo1

    jimpo1 Two Time F1 World Champ
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    It's a bass banjo of course.
     
  17. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #17 Steve Magnusson, Oct 20, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2010
    Don't know why I couldn't recognize earlier this morning that the regulator that you are using works exactly like the K/KE-Jet regulators -- i.e., the inlet pressure is held constant by varying the flow with the outlet always at ~zero pressure. Consequently, I think that you'd be a lot better off using this configuration:
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    The advantage to this configuration is that only the fuel entering the engine (and the small amount leaking out the orifice) has to pass thru the banjo fittings. The problem that you are having now is being caused by having the entire flow out of the fuel pump (what the engine uses + the return flow) passing thru the banjo fittings.

    The 100 gph (about 6.2 liter/min) pump might be a little on the high side. The stock K/KE-Jet delivers about 2.6 liter/min (for ~230 HP), so you should be good for ~570 HP ;), but I'm sure that you'll have much less of a problem using this other configuration.
     
  18. SMS

    SMS F1 Veteran

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    #18 SMS, Oct 21, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2010

    I like your solution. It basically makes the 3' or so of supply line act as a fuel log. I had considered mounting a generic log that the fuel passes thru and tap the 4 carbs into that, but the best practical mounting location is on the firewall, and I did not want all that directly above the hot front header.
    I'll give your layout a try. I also think I'm a tad bit under the 570 hp, so this shoud be adequate for now... ;)
     

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