Engine out where do you stop?

Decided to do own engine out now I've got a cosy garage with 2 post lift. In fact I took fuel tank out as well for the access, I was not happy with hauling out that ecu connector! didnt need to but not much work whilst there and gives chance to check it all out.

Cam belts and hills tensioners of course. But I was seeking a few more horses. Inlet manifolds showed some gaskets squeezing out into air flow so doing those and delving deeper now.

Heads off and guides were clearly shot. Those nuts are not easy to get off are they? But a 15mm spanner ground down around the edges worked.

Water pump rebuild whilst there, and Ive heard/seen a couple of oil chain tensioners go recently so bottom off as well, when I could find all the bolts, couple little ones tucked away at the back there! New tensioner either £300 or £150 depending on model, mine was 150 one so all well.

Order for complete gasket set and o rings went well by just saying that not listing every item. Thanks lancaster ferrari. and with all filters still under 1k.

Rads were shot so recored, and as Ive had glass go through air vents before now and puncture a rad in the 348 so i decided to make some grills to protect them.

as its a 5.2 it has forward air intake not from c piller, that needs putting back.

decided to take wire off exhaust bypass valve and get that working again after reading comments on forum.

So I think Ive finished taking apart and can start putting back together! Finally, but what a lot of bits in my garage!

all still needs a lot of cleaning up first in places you cant normally get to. Replacing hoses with silicon whilst in there, and cvj rubbers and 1 cvj needed replacing. fortunately cvj is same as audi one, as ferrari only sell the whole drive shaft.

heat shields over them and around oil tank are starting to delaminate, so just put some extra fibre glass on those and painted black.

Oil tank needs a repaint as do cam covers of course, old paint came off in end with stripper, new crackle needs to be put on warm so need to get heater kick started for weekend!

valve guides luckily are standard size, the heads went to my mechanic to do, i know my limitations, well some of them! the oversive ones are in short supply in europe at least, and cost another £10 each or there abouts!

Clutch still looks good so thats great, despite a bit of abuse this season.

Im sure many issues yet to uncover, but thanks to all on this forum for the comments and guides that have enabled me to do this so far. Taken lots pics so i can see how it was before and will now try to get it back together, all shiny clean to boot.
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I say throw in a paint job and that will be just about time to stop.

 

Go the Dave Helms gold connector kit while there. You wont regret it. Check your intakes for leaks. Get the injectors cleaned. Even if the clutch disk is good, change the throw bearings to Hill Engineering. Strip and repaint the valve covers. Replace your fan motors if they are original. Change BOTH cvj boots. Repair the shields for the cvj boots and make sure they are not touching the headers which by the way could be replace with Tubi (much cheaper in UK). Eliminate the cats or at least use the hyper flow type of cats. Despite what a few in here are saying, get rid of the bypass valve. Have the plug wires tested and replace all of them if needed. Kingsbourne have a great wire set at less than half the OEMs price. Get rid of the original silencer and replace it with a tubi. Replace the alternator belt tensioner bearing. When you replace the two HE tensioner bearings, make sure that they have the clearance. If not a little grinding will do the trick. Check the little lines running back from the cooling resivoir. Take them off and make sure there is flow in them. They tend to shrink inside while looking perfect outside. Get the replacements from Dave Helms.(better rubber) Repace the motor and trany mounts. Be careful not to lean on the back of the car while the engine is out as this is where the cracks in the lower parts of the buttress come from. If you dont have the updated power steering resivoir, get the update. Get the proper spanner for reinstalling the heads or you wont be able to torque them properly. Recambi has it. Some in here think that porting the heads will give you more horses. Maybe.

 

I'm very curious as to how you know the buttress cracks come from leaning on the car. Seems like maybe if one fully jacked the car up from the rear one side at a time instead of gradually doing both sides it could be from that, but I can't see even a 250 pounder making those cracks just by leaning on the rear of the car. If you bounced your butt up and down on the rear quarters it might happen. Did you lean on the car and see/hear the paint splitting? EXCELLENT set of tips by btw, bookmarked. Sorry for going off topic.

 

XSFV348, nice job!! Cool to see people tearin' into their own cars so extensively. I rabidly wish I could do this myself, more than anyone will ever know.

 

same!!!

 

I agree with some of your recommendations but would like you to qualify 2 statements you made:

1. So you recommend Tubi headers? Apart from the fact they have a heat shield can you tell me why I should buy them(excluding a cost comparison to OE)?

2. Please explain the "WHY" one should remove the by-pass valve...what benefits are gained? I would also like to know what you think this valve does along with your theory and any dyno run sheets(with AFR overlay) that support this recommendation.

I'm all ears...

 

Bruce as a baby:
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+1

 

The engine subframe is an integral part of the rear structure. When that part is removed it won't take much effort to damage the bodywork.

 

Hey Gary, here I am 62 years later with a little less hair...
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Yes, WHERE do you stop??

 

One of the big reasons the 355 suffers many of the failures it does is because of the slowing of the exhaust heat from the tailpipes. Removing the bypass(which is a pain in the ass anyway) along with the cats allows this to happen much easier. Its purpose is mostly for emissions. The sound quality is better as well with out it . My bypass and cats have been on the shelf for over a decade and when I had my engine out service, we also decided to do the valve guides. When the heads were off, there was no cylinder liner wear that could be measured. This tells me that the "story" of engine wear because of the bypass being removed is simply that....a story. As for the Tubi headers. Well lets just say that they should be insulated period. They claim more horses but I doubt it.

 

Thanks Tim.

 

Someone has beat me to the answer. See 5 posts above. Maybe you misunderstood me when I made that post about the butresses. I ment not to lean on them or move the car around by pushing on them when the engine is out because your rear end frame is also out with the engine.

 

Thanks Gerry for such a useful list,
update below

ill have a look for sure

we will

done a couple were a bit out.

done already

tonights job

I did look for the replacements over here, not really found what im looking for yet, but on the case, although they are so easy to change any time. so will be an if time job

outers were in very good condition so I think have been changed, ill check records

done ready to go back

not allowed in our competition regs

ditto

prob will

controversial given other posts! but like you my bores are perfect with original hone marks clear.

good idea

came with car

good one, had new alt last year so will check not done then.

out stock at moment but they hope more next week.

done last year

really? they look solid enough.

safe 6 ft above me

how can you tell?

i'm a skinflint, but can see why you need it!

dont think regs allow. just making sure very clean and butterflies etc all balanced up when we get it back together


thanks for that, not too many extra jobs then!

i shall post progress if anyone interested.

 

Ahhn I see said the blind man. Thanks for the info!

 

I hear ya loud and clear. Thanks again for the punchlist.

 

Ahhh hell! Now I have to work with that minds eye visual in my head when we talk.

The more I read here... the more I learn.

 

OKEEE DOKEEE, I have just one question for you Dave
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The only book anyone ever needs......
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gotta love it.

 

update below

The old power steering unit has a cap that is 3.5 inches in diameter and the new one is about 2.25 inches in diameter. The HE bearings are all in stock at Recambi if you have any problem getting them there.

 

You stop when you're out of cash, credit and friend's money.

 

Run out of mine, using friends already but got wifes bank log ins now so good for some carbon sills i reckon as well.