Coolant tubing change

When I replaced these on my '82 308 - I loosened the clamp that held both pipes together. That allowed more access. Sorry it was trouble for you..... Wayne

 

I would opt for a slightly longer hose and lube it well on both ends. If it is too short to begin with, as you noted, I don't think any amount of manipulation will help, or do as the other posted noted and loosen the other end of the tube.

 

Impressive picture.

Soak the hose in very hot water to soften it up. Also maybe try some Vaseline.

I have been there and know the pain.

Right now very easy for me as I have removed the water pump housing as part of my current project.

 

I recall doing this job on my former Mondial QV with silicone hose. Two weekends and several innovative cursing sessions later, the job was done. I am still unclear as to why the cooling system requires so many pieces of aluminum piping, but what helped me to get the lower hose on the piping was to to loosen/remove the piece of hose and piping adjoining that piece to gain some leverage. Soaking the tubing in hot water and applying the aforementioned Vaseline helped to slide the hose over the flared end of the tube. Good luck!

 

I thought all you were doing was changing the coolant fluid?

Something easy.

 

The tubing is there because the more hose in that type of system (rads in front, engine in back), the more the system volume expands when hot and you can - in theory - end up with insufficient coolant when the engine is hot. I had a 996 Porsche 911 that when driven hard would start blinking the low coolant light because the hoses were expanding and dropping the coolant level. Hard tubing avoids that problem so it's a much better system design BUT, as noted, it makes replacing the rubber connectors much more difficult.

 

Loosen the clamps that hold the two pipes together. Mix up a solution of Dawn and water and wet down pipes and inside of the hose. That should do it. I used this procedure recently and it worked without any issues. Good luck.

 

And if you have any interference problems with the coolant or fuel pipes, cut a 3 or 4 inch section of your old hose, slit it down the side, and clamp it across the problem area.

 

Hmm... what am I missing? I just replaced all these hoses a few days ago and didn't have the slightest hint of any difficulty. Everything just slid on without effort.

 

You need to loosen the clamp that holds the pipes together.

 

I used Dave Helms' Scuderia Rampante hoses. But I also had plenty of ability to move the tubes, as I had my radiator out. That may be the big difference.

 

This is your problem. The OEM size is 41mm and many people use Gates 1 5/8" hose, not 1 1/2" .

 

Really? I wouldn't use anything that would make suds in my coolant. I can't think of what it might really do, but it just seems like a bad idea.

 

Spit works well on hoses and minimizes contamination. Just don't be drinkin' oil or soap.

 

The truth has been spoken...as with the lower radiator loose or off and the band clamp on the two chassis tubes loosened, the short collar sleeves can be changed in minutes. And with the perfectly fitting "Dave Helm's Miracle" hoses, that time is even less.

 

Get some of Dave Helms hoses they are twice as flexible as the OEM or replacement hoses also get some silicone paste. Put a very light amount on the inside of the hose and they will go on very easy!!!!!

http://www.scuderiarampanteinnovations.com/solutions.html#coolant



I use Aba SS clamps from west marine the best!!!
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I want to replace the flexible sleeves connecting the metal piping since my 328 (GTS Euro version with ABS) is 26 years old. These sleeves are all 40 mm inner diameter (or 1.5") however I do not understand the sleeves #33 and 40 as indicated with a blue circle in below scheme. Can anybody tell me what they are and how to access/replace.

thanks on beforehand!
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