Best method / coating / covering to seal concrete garage floor | FerrariChat

Best method / coating / covering to seal concrete garage floor

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by finnerty, Dec 3, 2010.

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  1. finnerty

    finnerty F1 World Champ

    May 18, 2004
    10,406
    #1 finnerty, Dec 3, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2010
    My personal "shop" is in an out-building which has a slab-on-grade concrete floor ----- about 800 square feet. The space is well insulated and heated, but has one problem ---- a good deal of moisture wicks up through the concrete floor into the heated space causing a significant moisture / condensation problem inside.

    Last Winter I combated the problem by running de-humidifiers. But, I want a better, more permanent solution so I'm thinking about coatings or coverings that will provide a good, durable moisture / vapor barrier on the floor.

    Any recommendations / products you've used with good results??? Cost is not a big factor --- but, I don't want to go nuts with the budget for this....

    Thanks
     
  2. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2003
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    Dave M.
    Hydrostatic pressure is probably the bug-a-boo here.

    We had the same problem in one of my rental offices. They installed a tile floor with a water based adhesive and it NEVER DRIED. Adhesive seeped out between the tiles, it was a GIANT mess.

    We stripped the floors and used an epoxy coating that was designed specifically for this problem. Unfortunately, it was 20 years ago and I can't recall the name of the product.

    It worked, even though it was applied over a surface that was not quite damp, but certainly not completely dry either. 20 yrs later, it's still working like a charm.

    I suspect someone here will know what to apply, just be sure to explain carefully to whomever you buy the material from that you have a wicking problem, and that the material needs to stay stuck.

    DM
     
  3. finnerty

    finnerty F1 World Champ

    May 18, 2004
    10,406
    Hey Dave, would you mind moving this thread to the "Technical Q & A" forum for me, please? I probably shouldn't have put it here.

    Thanks
     
  4. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
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    Dec 10, 2003
    43,887
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    Dave M.

    I'd love to, but the force is no longer with me, I am, sadly, a moderator emeritus now.

    I'll hit the !, see if we can get 'er moved.

    DM
     
  5. Steveny360

    Steveny360 F1 Veteran

    Sep 5, 2007
    7,070
    What works best is laying down plastic before the floor is poured. I have a similar problem at my old house and I put slate down on the floor which pretty much stopped the problem as the slate would soak up all the water before it wicked through. I also sealed the slate several times. If you paint/epoxy floor my guess is it will peel in short order.
     
  6. Sledge4.2

    Sledge4.2 F1 Rookie

    Oct 19, 2007
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    Marin
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    Geno
    Probably not much you can do to get the moisture from seeping up. I guess you could seal it, but you'd just be trapping in where it doesnt want to be. Busting up the slab would be the best fix I think. Either that or maybe put a membrane down, and repour a topping slab?
     
  7. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner Professional Ferrari Technician

    Dec 29, 2006
    18,221
    Twin Cities
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    Tim Keseluk
    When do you notice the moisture?

    If the surface is at grade there probably isn't real hydrostatic pressure like you'd get in a basement.

    There are concrete sealers that moisture-cure and need to be applied to a damp surface.
     
  8. Sledge4.2

    Sledge4.2 F1 Rookie

    Oct 19, 2007
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    Geno
    the purpose sealers is to keep water going into the slab from the top, not to keep water from coming up from the bottom.
     
  9. pad

    pad Formula 3

    Sep 30, 2004
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    Tequesta, FL
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    Paul Delatush
    Have you considered a sump pump?
     
  10. 12659

    12659 Formula Junior

    Oct 6, 2005
    349
    Seattle WA. USA
    Full Name:
    mark
    try xypex concentrate
     
  11. finnerty

    finnerty F1 World Champ

    May 18, 2004
    10,406
    The description is interesting.....I'm gonna have to check this stuff out some more and try to find a source to buy ---- I suspect it will be too $$$$, but thanks for the tip!
     
  12. finnerty

    finnerty F1 World Champ

    May 18, 2004
    10,406
    #12 finnerty, Dec 4, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2010
    Pretty much year round, but worst in the heat of summer and after extended raining which soaks the surrounding ground outside (and fills up the water table underneath). The slab is a few inches higher than the adjacent grade, and it does have a full perimeter, 40" (IIRC) deep, foundation footer around it --- but, I suspect that footer wall has many cracks in it by now (30 years old) so, it's likely not the good "dam" it used to be.
     
  13. finnerty

    finnerty F1 World Champ

    May 18, 2004
    10,406
    #13 finnerty, Dec 4, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2010
    Not a bad idea, actually. That would probably help get water out from under it a bit. But, I'm not too excited about busting a big hole in the slab and installing a cistern / reservoir for the pump, then figuring out how to dump the water outside (far enough away from the building so it doesn't just flow right back under :)) and keep the outlet pipe from freezing in the winter ----- sounds like a lot of work and expense. It would be much easier, of course, if the building had indoor plumbing already --- unfortunately it does not :(
     
  14. aleesterdonald

    Dec 6, 2010
    16
    Probably not much you can do to moisture indoors. I think we can concentrate, but you just want to catch, if you do not want to be. Exposing the plate would be the best remedy in my opinion. Either that or maybe put the movie down, and repour topping slab?
     
  15. NW328GTS

    NW328GTS Formula 3

    Nov 16, 2009
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    Hal
    I used a Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield. Its a two part epoxy paint made for garages. Worked great to seal the floor. You have to wait for dry weather and make sure the slab is dry before you apply it... but after it cured it resists water from above and below.
     
  16. bill365

    bill365 F1 Rookie

    Nov 3, 2003
    3,319
    Chicago area
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    Bill
    Hi David,
    You may want to try trenching around the slab on the outside and using a sump pump or just gravity (if possible) to evacuate the water. If in a cold area, put the field tubing, pump outlet tubing and sump pit, lower than the frost depth. Of course I don't know if there is a suitable place (lower elevation) for open dumping of the discharge, if you'll have to use a "dry well" or a drain field, to "relocate" the water. Just a thought. That much water could cause serious problems with the slab, especially in a cold area.

    Good luck,
    Bill
     
  17. RED GTS

    RED GTS Formula Junior

    Jun 14, 2004
    578
    Full Name:
    Gungnir
    this is from personal experience.

    1. do a french drain completely around the shop/barn, make sure the rain gutters feed into it and it drains well away from the slab.

    2. zypex over the slab keeping it moist so the crystals can fill in all small holes in the concrete, then use a cementous product like westcoat, this can be made to look like tiles. expensive and time consuming but took care of the problem when epoxy, vct tiles failed. I will post a picture when I get to it.
     
  18. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
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    Terry H Phillips
    The French drain is a great idea. Trench around the whole building with an outlet at the lowest point leading to a cistern. Fill the trench and cistern with rocks and cover with newspaper (start saving) or cloth and then cover with dirt.

    If your outbuilding is metal, you may have an overgrown solar still that is condensing water overnight that flows down to your concrete floor. Some vents high up in the sides and possibly an exhaust fan in the ceiling would help cut down on the condensation. If you look at metal buildings in high humidity areas, the bottom of the wall near the slab will tend to rust out first because this is where the condensate concentrates.

    Taz
    Terry Phillips
     

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