Engine Won't Start After Installing New Battery

Does your car still use a dinoplex?

If so, you may have killed it.

 

Do you have a volt meter?

Do you have a 12 volt test lamp?

First option:

Pull either coil wire 1/2 inch out of either coil and have a second person turn the engine over as if to start the motor. If there is a spark jumping between the gap between the coil and the coil wire; your ignition switch/coil is working OK. At least to and from the coil. That would indicate the problem could be in the rotor or distributor cap.

You may want to check both coils just to confirm what is, or is not, happening regarding ignition spark at the coils.

It will not shock you if you hold it in your fingers about 2 inches from the end of the wire while you do this. If it does shock you that is a good thing. You have confirmed that there is spark from the ignition system.

Second option:

Turn the ignition key to the engine run position and with a volt meter check to see if you have 12 volts on the positive terminal of either ignition coil in the engine bay.

If you don't know which terminal is positive, check both terminals on one coil at a time and see if either terminal on that one coil has 11.5 to 12 volts. The switch side of the coil should have very close to 12 volts.

Actually, the hot wire from the ignition switch is parallel wired to both coils. Basically a jumper wire from the + terminal of one coil to the + terminal of the other coil.

They should both have 12 volts on the positive terminal at the same time. If not there is a problem.

That same wire goes to the no. 7 terminal in the diagnosis test connector, so you can check there also. The no. 7 diagnosis terminal is connected to both coils.

If you have a test light instead of a volt meter see if the test light comes on when you touch any of the noted terminals. i.e. either coil or the no. 7 test terminal.

If you 12 volts at those points the next issue may be the electronic ignition modules(2 of them) behind the fender well panel in front of the left rear wheel.

To check the voltage at modules you will have to get to them. Wheel off, fender well panel off. Check terminal no. 8 on the modules for 12 volts with the ignition switch in the engine run position.

If you do not have a high voltage spark or 12 volts at these locations your problem is most likely a faulty terminal between the battery and the ignition switch or in the switch. I doubt that it is in the switch, but it is a possibility. It would be more likely a terminal malfunction.

This information will only diagnose the problem, but will help you locate or isolate the problem.

If you want to run these tests. Post the results and we can go to the remedy issues.

DRG

 

I had a similar experience with an '84 Mondial QV that I owned. I was having intermittent problems starting, especially when hot. Put in a new battery, but they didn't go away, it actually got worse. Turned out it was all coming from the shut-off switch between the battery and the chassis. That switch is a POS and it corrodes really badly, reducing the voltage sufficiently that it won't start. I simply by-passed the switch and ran a new negative cable directly from the battery to the chassis, cleaned the chassis connection really well to assure I was metal to metal, and sprayed it up with anti-corrosion coating on the chassis and negative terminal on the battery. With the new cable and clean connection straight to chassis, the car started right up and no more intermittent problems. It's worth checking that out and by-passing the cut-off switch before doing a whole lot more, as it's cheap and easy.

 

My father shared with me a variety of war stories from his experience with Mondials/3x8s/Boxers when I was looking into my 3.2, many of which were specific to the alarm craze of the 80s. The range of alarm varied, which made it difficult to diagnose and fiddle with after time or resale. I would assume these electrical gremlins are still relevant and tough to peg down today.

His concern for alarms was only trumped by the overheating issues arising from imported euro models modified to meet US regulation.

Best of luck sorting the alarm. Hope it was a fluke that corrected itself.

 

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ChampIII

 

Green = good, Red = bad.

I've had both. It is a systems check. Usually mine is accompanied by one of the lights above. Green just indicates that whatever it's crude little brain can look at is OK.

I'd be more scientific but I'm on the road and my manual is at home.

Glad to hear all is right now.

 

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ChampIII