waxing the rear deck lid on a 348

Ive NEVER waxed mine in 6 yrs. I just leave it.

Sorry I cant help.

 

Oh, good luck mate. Hopefully someone can help.

 

people actually wax their F-cars..........................sorry couldn't resist

My best advice is to take a micro fiber towel and some Meguiars 2 in 1 compound wax and hit each louver by hand. That should keep your busy for a few hours.

 

I don't wax the loovers, but I wax the rest of the rear deck.

 

I do wax mine just as I do the rest of the car. I use Zaino Bros products, a synthetic wax. To get into the sides of the louvers, instead of just relying on my orbital, I use a mf towel. I leave the wax on overnight and wipe off in the morning. I have not done it but I think you can remove the wire mesh from the decklid without too much trouble if you really ant to get into it.
Hope that helps.

-Billy

 

Yup. Fairly easy just a lot of nuts to undo. Good time to repaint it if needed. The lovers come out as one piece so they are easier to wax and clean that way as well.

--Mike

 

Try Meguiars Show Car Polish then follow up with Zymol carnauba wax.

Use microfibre cloths.

Each slat will take time and perseverence.

 

It takes long enough just getting the dirt out of all the little corners.

 

I'm with you ol' Papster. Me neither. The door grills are enough frustration for me!

 

I covered the vents on my 355 with tape I picked up in the car detailing section at an auto supply shop. Most of the polishes I use, those, don't cause the white residue powdery residue, but it takes time to tape off all the areas you don't want the polish and wax to get on, like the rubber around the doors or the convertible top in my case.

 

That white crap is likely old wax that was never removed.

 

First, use a Microfiber towel to apply was to the outer deck area. Use the same applicator towel but do NOT apply any additional to the Microfiber towel. There will (in all probability) be enough wax left to do a good job.

Second, Griot's Garage sells a wax removal product that will not harm paint. It comes in a shoe polish applicator-like plastic bottle. You can also use a small paint brush to get into areas which have white built-up wax residue.

Third, you can carefully apply Mother's "Back-to-Black" on the black grill surfaces. It will help to bring back that deep, mat OEM finish. However, as mentioned above, the best way is to remove the grills (warning it's kind of a PITA, I did it on my 308). They are held on with these strange push-fit plastic "cup" fasteners.

 

that white crap is exactly what it is, check out a statue some time

 

Anyone try this?

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/car+waxing/car+waxes+and+sealants/dried-on+wax+remover+8+ounces.do?search=basic&keyword=wax+remover&sortby=newArrivals&page=1

--Mike

 

I gave up Carnuba wax 8 years ago in favor of a synthetic mostly because of that 'white crap.' Plus, synthetic looks just as good imo and lasts 10x's longer.
In addition, I think the heat coming out of our engine bays really wreaks havoc on carnuba, protection and color-wise.

I love and have many of Griot's products but you've heard the saying about Griot's wax: 'Best AT Show', as opposed to Best in Show! It lasts about 90 days.

The Zaino products really are amazing, esp. the detailer spray.
http://www.zainostore.com/

-Billy

 

Tough job you have but this is a job best done by hand using a microfiber towel and a good wax / cleaner product that will not leave white residue once the product becomes dry. I have tried most of the wax and cleaner products over many years of dealing with collector cars. Adams makes some great products that can help you.

http://www.adamspolishes.com/