Anyone have a suggestion? I took the head light stalk switch apart and it is all good (both black and green wires connected). When I turn the stalk, the lamps go up and the running lights turn on (all of them). When I pull to Position II, no low beams. When I pull to Position III, high beams come on. Bulbs are brand new (thought that was it so I replaced them - also, if I switch the connectors at the fuse box the lows come on in Pos III so they do work - also, fuses are brand new Birdman fuse blocks - NOTE: it did this before I replaced the fuses blocks with Birds' conversion). When I check voltage, I get voltage on two of the 3-plug sockets at each lamp for position III (high beams) but nothing for position II (low beams). Is the "exterior lights" relay also for the head lamps? B/C that's all I got left. Anyone?
I had this problem. The plastic on my switch stalk was cracked so I ended up taking the entire switch assembly apart for inspection and cleaning. Turns out the stalk was still structurally sound, but the contacts were pretty dirty. After I polished the contacts and put everything back together, I had high and low beams again. Rather than an entire disassembly, I would first try spraying some electrical contact cleaner up into the switch body at the steering column and moving the stalk up and down to scrub the contacts. Also, are you getting power at the low beam fuses?
When I check the fuses I get nothing at all on the low beams. On the high beams, it reads .7V which can't be right. If I pull back on the stalk to "flash" the lights, the low beams come on. I'll try the di-electric cleaner and see if that works. If anyone else has a suggestion please say so.
Instead of using an autoranging multimeter reading mysterious .7v, I recommend using a more definative but inexpensive circuit tester as the proper tool to find presence of voltage. They look like an ice pick with a 12v bulb in the handle and a wire with clip for ground and cost between $5 and $10. If your low beams do light when the flash switch is pulled but don't light with the stalk in position II, the low-beam position, then the fault lies with that portion of the stalk switch or the yellow wire from that switch to the fuse panel top of fuses #3-#4. The 'flash test' you performed proves out all other low beam circuitry from fuse panel to the bulbs to be ok. Since you just fitted the Birdman block, check to see if that yellow wire was replaced properly at top fuse #3 or #4. I hope we are talking about a US car as Euro's are wired slightly different re the low beam with a special options socket and relay involving the flashing circuit. _________________________ http://www.FerrariWiring.com
I'll double check the wires, but they should be OK. In the past, the low beams have always been flakey. I'd turn them on and sometimes they'd come on, and sometimes I'd have to jiggle the handle a bit to get them to come on. Sometimes they'd just switch off (that's always fun in the dark on a road with no other lighting) and I'd have to jiggle the handle and they'd come back on. This was all before the birdman fues blocks. Is it possible to remove the switch from the steering column? It sure seems like something in there is not right. Also, I have a voltage tester in the house somewhere so I'll just use that. tks
I believe further dialog reveals the switch to be faulty and has been flaky for some time. Photo left indicates area needing to be de-flaked or replaced. I suggest seeking the wise console of Verrell, the 'geru of stalk'. http://www.unobtainiumsupply.com/attachments/File/UnobtainiumSupply_Product_List.PDF Image Unavailable, Please Login
It comes right out once the steering wheel is removed, Moorespeed in Austin has a BRAND NEW OEM switch assembly.... It's telling though, that it already shows hairline cracking......
Getting it apart is actually pretty easy. It's the putting it back together that's a PITA. - Unhook the battery - Remove the steering wheel hub (special tool required) - Remove lower steering column trim piece - Unhook electrical connectors at base of steering column - Remove bolts/screws (I don't remember which) holding column switch unit to steering column Once removed, you need to carefully remove the horn ring (held on by clips), then you can remove the top plate of the switch which holds the whole thing together. Be careful as each stalk contains several spring loaded contacts which are easily lost. Assembly is, as they say, the opposite procedure. The main problem is you need three (or more) hands to hold the springs and contacts in place while you put the stalks back. Hopefully, a contact cleaner spray will fix the problem. Mine was doing exactly the same thing as yours. The high beams worked all the time but the lows were flaky. Jiggling the stalk made the lows work every now and then.
I have a copy of our schematic on the kitchen counter at Valeria's house, she'd LOVE for you to have it!
Success...the electrical cleaner did it. Sprayed it into both sides and let it dry (OK, it dries in about 2s). At first I had to do the jiggle the switch thing, but ~30m later, after I got the wheels back on and the car on the ground, everything works perfect. No more jiggle the switch routine! Rotate switch, lights pop up and parking lights come on. Pull to Pos II, low beams come one. Pull to Pos III, high beams come on. Thanks all....
