Door Handle/lever Cable Snapped

The cable that the exterior door handle/lever is attached to snapped last weekend so the only way to open the drivers door now is to reach through the window and open it with the inside lever. I took the inner panel of the door apart last night which was quite easy to do, but I see trying to get to the inside where the cable attaches to the handle itself appears to be nearly impossible without taking out the whole window assembly. The track for the window interferes with access to where the cable can be reattached to the handle inside the door.

Anyone have any secrets to getting this fixed without having to take the window and window mechanisms out of the inside of the door?

 

Take the exterior door handle off. It's held by a single screw at the back of the door. Once you remove the screw, you can slide the handle out of the slot in the door. Attach a new cable to the handle and put it back in the door. The bottom end of the cable attaches to a collar and set screw on the door lock mechanism. You might be able to access this from the inside, but I think I unscrewed the lock and secured the cable from the back of the door.

 

If you need to make a new cable, and I assume it's the same type as on the GT4, you can use the handle off any 5 gallon pail.
My lock knob cable broke and I made a new one with this. Sam diameter.

 

It's a rod on the early 308s, no cable.

Held on by spring clips.

Take the glass of the mechanism and get at it.

 

He's talking about the cable that connects to the exterior door handle, not the lock knob rod. The door handle cable is an actual flexible cable. The lock knob rod is a solid rod. You can get to this without removing the glass.

 

Can you do it this way? Between the thickness of the handle and the cable head I didn't think you could get the assembled pieces back through the narrow slot. IIRC I had to "thread the needle" putting the cable back in with a long pair of hemostats after the handle was already in place. Do you pull the bezel piece?

Speaking of the "bezel".... Tex? Verell??

Rick

 

Oh sorry, I thought he meant rod, couldn't think if the right word, it was early.
On the GT4 it's all rods, thought it was a similar system

 

Verell makes the rear hood latch bezel.

This sounds like he's working on a 328 to me.

Early 308s have the small handle easily removed from the door by a mounting bolt.
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I don't see the handle, but I wouldn't mind playing with her knobs!!

THE DOOR, Tex, THE DOOR.... man you have a dirty mind... LOL

 

I do not have the bezel piece on my '78. I don't know if it ever came with one or if it got removed/lost somewhere along the way. Seems like my car didn't even have them originally since the slot is pretty narrow and the door handle pivot just barely slides in.

I wish I had taken a photo. The entire thing does fit. I had to reassemble this part of my car in 2009, then again in 2010 when the driver's side cable broke. The widest part of the handle is the pivot. The end where the cable attaches is narrower and even with the cable attached, it will easily slide into the door slot.

 

No BT, Rick's talking about the door latch bezel that you were supposed to send for Verell to mold.

The OP's profile says he has an '85 QV. I thought all the 308s had the same handle and there wasn't a difference between early and late.

 

It is a 308. Sorry for my absence - just got home from the office. I tried loosening that mounting bolt/screw but its real, reall tight and I was afraid I was going to break something.

I'll give it another go. During my sleepless night I thought of the process as described by taking the handle out, attaching the cable then running it down to the latching mechanism.

Thanks for all the input.

 

Awesome! Thanks! I have not put my door handles back on as I am waiting for a set of bezels from Verell. This will be so much easier than the threading the needle. Probably a jig saw puzzle though... handle through bezel, cable through handle, handle/cable partially through door opening, bezel in door opening, rest of handle in door, handle bolt.

And in response to someone's inquiry. Yes, there were two versions of this door handle. Some have a smooth back. Others have a hole in the back and a small rubber bumper on the back of the handle which is inserted through the hole... I'm not sure when the change was made. All I know is there is this variation along with cars having bezels or not.

Rick
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BigTex came thru with his 2 NOS parts several weeks ago. Unless something changes, next weel I'll make make the first of 2 molds. The 1st mold will make 2 parts/pour. I'll use it to make 6-8 patterns for the 2nd mold.

Rick, I'll get you 2 parts from the 1st mold so you can put your doors back together.

Also next week I plan on making the production mold for the GTS Louver bumpers.

 

As always Verell, you do a great service for this group!! Thanks!

Rick

 

My door is sticking today when I try to open it. The pull feels like it only partially unlatches the door and I had to pull a couple of times before it swung open. Does this sound like the start of the same issue? I already changed the hinge pins 2 years ago and they're aligned properly, the lock pins push closed and open inside, and the key pops them from the outside. Is there a way to adjust the tension on the door pull or the latch.

 

Probably not the same issue. Three things to look at. First, is the door strike (mounted on the car tight and adjusted correctly?). Second, it could just be the tapered pin on the door latch mechanism and the pocket it slides into on the door strike. Clean those both well and maybe a slight wipe of lightweight grease on the tapered pin. The Last item fits your description better and unfortunately is the most work... that is the latch mechanism itself. The actual latch is a rotary type that closes in two stages. It should open in one but if it is really filthy it is slow rotating and gets caught on the first stage when you try to open. These latch mechanisms get really gunked up with age but clean up nicely if you remove the latch and brush it in a pan full of lacquer thinner. After you clean it up re-oil all the pivot points and it should be good for years to come.

Hope this helps,
Rick
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