Oil change, what spec?

Shell Rotella T 15W-40
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I'm happy with 10w-40

 

The materials and way they hardened cams back when the 308 and 328 were in production are much different then what is done today. These older engines require an oil with a higher zinc content. The recomended min PPM of zinc for these engines 1500. The heaveier weights recomended for these cars also has to do with the era of manufacturing. The clearances were different at that time and heavier oils are needed to take up the slack.

 

I used 15-50 Mobil 1 synthetic and it worked fine.

The last oil change I tried 5-30 Valvoline synthetic and the engine runs smoother.

 

I agree. I just poured in Motul 5100 10W50 semi-synthetic and will see how that runs when I get the car back on the road. One of the very few oils on the market that is in the correct, original weight rating and because it is primarily for motorcycles, in an API rating SG/SH/SJ/SL (which should make it having just enough zinc/phosphrous to protect the valvetrain).

I used to run Castrol 5W50 and liked how the car ran with it, but then switched to Mobil 1 20W50 "V-Twin" (for motorcycles*) because Castrol upgraded the API to "SM" (which I believe requires <800 PPM for zinc/phos. at that level). But, I have found that the thicker 20W50 made the engine sluggish when cold (at startup).

* = That specific Mobil 1 has a rating of "SG" which has levels of zinc/phos. of around 1500 PPM of each.

 

I read somewhere that older engines with flat solid (non-hydraulic) tappets, like ours, should get oil w/high zinc content because the hardening spec used for cams used anticipated it. Is this true? Perhaps the higher lubricity of syn oils compensates for lower zinc concentrations.

 

From what I've been told and what I've read, these additives do help. As for the difference between synthetic and mineral oil, I believe it's more a matter of the synth's ability to remain on the surface of parts and maintain it's integrity over time/use than what it can provide in regards to protecting/adding to the surface coating/treatment of the metal.

Keep in mind, we as Ferrari owners tend not to abuse oil like fleet vehicles, or ultra-high mileage daily drivers and therefore, it gets changed frequently, so the choice between mineral and synthetic is probably moot.

 

I'll add my two cents here as I just switched back to Castol GTX 20W50 yesterday.

I had been running the Castrol since I bought the car back in 2007 with no problems.

I had the major sevice done over this past winter and decided to go with Redline 5W40 Synthetic. The oil was just to thin and was finding every flaw and weeping out. There were several good size puddles under the car.

Yesterday morning I changed the oil back to Castrol GTX 20W50. I used 9 Quarts of oil and added two bottles of ZDDP additive. I took the car for a long drive to circulate the oil and parked it. The car has been sitting for almost 24 hours and there is no oil on the cardboard under the car.

I know it will start dripping a little even with the 20W50, but I have tried both and will now stay with the Castrol GTX.

 

im also using 20/50,,,can you tell me what the ZPPD additive is,,and what it does ., and where i can get it,,,thx,,Brett

 

ZDDP is a Zinc Additive. It is needed in many (not all) conventional and synthetic oils as the EPA has required it to be removed from most mass market oils for a variety of reasons. This is not an issue for modern cars, but older cars require it to prevent cam wear.

Here is where I order mine form. I use it in both my 308 and TR.

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/

 

I think there was a MAJOR contributing factor to this change that had nothing to do with the quality of oil. From 1968 through 1995 Ferrari Formula One cars wore Agip livery. In 1996 Shell became one of two primary team sponsors, along with Marlboro. I believe Marlboro were paying Ferrari around $50 million per season, and I'm sure Shell's deal was just as lucrative for the team. If Shell were to leave F1 and Sears started paying Ferrari $50-$100 million per season, you would probably see a spec for Sears oil in the owner's manual.

I'm not saying anything bad about Shell products, they're obviously very high quality, as are Agip products. Sometimes here in the US it's easy to forget the amount of influence that Formula One money has on everything.
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I have read frequent reference to AEHAAS in this thread. I have read a number of his posts on Fchat and discussion elsewhere and find it all interesting. I mean no disrespect, but is anyone aware of his credentials? Again, no disrespect intended.

 

I feel it appropriate to state that my previous posts in this thread re using Mobil 1 15W50 in my 328 are, as of two days ago, out of date. I switched to Mobil 1 0W40.

 

...if you use motorcycle oil.

I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T (10W-40); the V-Twin (20W-50) is another good choice for the higher viscosity route. Both of these oils are "limited distribution" motorcycle oils and thus escape the EPA's draconian reductions of zinc and phosphorous content in current general automobile oils. (Even though they are "limited distribution", both are probably available at your local AutoZone, etc.)

Current production vehicles would also benefit from the increased protection these oils offer; advances in metalurgy have not fully made up for the EPA mandated reductions in the zinc and phosphorous content! [Edit: but hydraulic lifters don't place the same demands on anti-wear additives, and the high levels of zinc/phosphorous will lead to a shorter useful life of the cat - the reason the EPA has mandated the reductions.]

-frank

 

Me too for the last 3 or 4 years. Seems to be fine on it. Those that say Synthetic leaks out their engines need to change some seals/gaskets.

 

"Those that say Synthetic leaks out their engines need to change some seals/gaskets"

Totally agree with that; the solution to fluids leaking is to fix the leak!

 

Redline 15W 50 in mine.