Need 328 AC clutch rebuilt or another one

Yeouch!

I'd start with Ted Rutland - 800 638-1444, then move on to Dennis McCann 614 855 1103, then try GT Car Parts 623 780 2200

One of these Ferrari "Lifesavers" should be able to get you back up and running.

Curious - - - -How did the clutch get toasted??

 

If the 328 clutch and pulley assembly is the same of that from a 308 York compressor then I have two of them.Unfortunately they are still on the compressors and I dont know how to remove them.Anyone know how they can be removed?

 

It's fairly easy. An impact wrench will loosen the bolt while you hold the clutch by hand. The rapid impacts of the wrench will loosen it without spinning the clutch in your hand (wear a glove). If you can't fit an impact wrench in - assuming the compressor is still mounted - you can hold the clutch with vice grips and unscrew the bolt with a regular socket/ratchet or wrench.

After the center bolt is removed you screw in a bolt - I believe it's 5/8 course thread but my memory may be faulty - and it will "pull" the clutch off the shaft.

I've done quite a few both ways with never any difficulty at all.

 

You mentioned "another unit (new) or rebuilt". man, Id get new. Depending, a lot of reman'd comps are done without changing out bearings- just seals. You dont want one of those. I bought 2 remand ones for my older cars, and yes, theyre still working, but leak oil (dang).

Hope your mech will also flush out the condenser! Especially like you said, the clutch burnt/went/whetever- when this happens, bits/shards of fine metal go down the system, and also end up in the condenser . (its good hes changing the exp valve too).

If you do it yourself, watch out- you can use brake cleaner, but man, dont shoot fluid down the condenser inlet using the narrow red tube that comes with brake cleaner! It is common for these to blow/shoot off the nozzle of the can and blow into the condenser! Then youll never get it out.....LOL

 

Pipo. The clutch is external to the compressor. No danger of anything entering a closed system. If the clutch started burning, maybe the compressor is on it's way out. Sounds like the clutch was being overworked by a seizing compressor

 

I have 2 compressors that were good when removed with the a/c clutches. We went with a more modern rotary set up. One is from my former QV the other my 87 328.

 

Overcharging the system can rapidly damage a compressor. THough usually the compressor will stop and the belt will start squealing before any real damage is done. But if the belt's new and quite tight and doesn't slip (squeal), the clutch will (hopefully) fail before any internal damage is done.

The last time I took the car to a shop for ac work and they "helped" me by recharging and adding "a few extra ounces of 134", the compressor locked up immediately. They looked up the charge by weight in the owners manual - 2.2 lbs - and decided if that was good, a few more oz would be even better. Since the the oem setup was R12 (it had been converted to 134 back in the 90's), this was a huge overcharge. There should have been about 1.8lbs of 134. We had to bleed it down to the point where the compressor would run.

That was my epiphany moment to learn to do my own ac work. I learned that the system was still overcharged which compromised cooling. That's when I bought the vac pump/gauge set and started reading...

 

Are they single groove for the York??
Those are Ferrari only items and very hard to source/replace.

If anyone wants to help me with one or two, my wallet is open.

I think the answer is to rebuild the one that was damaged if possible.

 

"Those are Ferrari only items and very hard to source/replace"

Are you sure about that? The system is pretty much a standard setup that was on all sorts of cars. Seems hard to imagine that Ferrari would need a Ferrari-specific part but OTOH, it wouldn't surprise me too much. I have never seen a dual-belt York though that doesn't mean there weren't any.

 

oops, my fault- I understood it as the clutch with compressor type......Thanks for the clarification. Guess you wont need to worry about the condenser, or even the exp valve for that matter, but thats been changed.

 

right- almost happened to me- I almost learned the hard way.

 

Recall that the compressor/clutch are the ONLY components in the engine compartment, all the rest is up front.

It's a York like the 911 uses, I blame them, for using them all up!!

 

911's benefit from rotary / 134 upgrades as well. will be doing my 911 next if I keep it. my Trans Am sold last night......

 

I am not sure if you realized it but Ferrari of Fort Lauderdale has a program designed for you to have work like this done with Offical Ferrari parts and service with afforidable prices. I realize that remanufactured or rebuilt may be cheaper but I wanted to extend our offer to you. if you look at our site all the prices are posted. No surprises and no BS.

But for a new clutch for your 328 is 1795 installed. That is official ferrari parts inclusive of labor. I think you will find this very impressive considering that retail is around $2700.

We designed this program to keep the dirvers driving. The Vintage Service Program is applicable for all cars from 308s to 360s.

We just figured you DESERVED Authorized service.

I hope this was helpful
Garrett

 

i just realized i forgot to include a link to the actual menu we have online. Here it is:
http://www.ferrarifl.com/vintage.php
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The system is a standard set up but the clutch was specially designed for Ferrari in order to sustain the load that would be associated with greater than 6,000 engine rpm. Standard a/c clutches would not last long enough.

 

Don't forget we run those goofy sized metric poly belts, that may be the unique feature.

I did find a comparable single groove generic part, but have not tried to install it....

 

You have two York set ups??

 

My bad. I misread it. do you want just the compressor clutch (without the compressor)? THe problem we have had is that it is hard to find this part (as you seem to already know). We stopped rebuilding them because of reliabilty.

If you PM me with yoru info i f will put my guys on it and make sure you are well taken care of.

Its up to you.

Feel free to reach out at any time. I really enjoy the older service. I tend to spend a lot of time in our restoration shop. So it is not a bother.

Garrett

 

Thanks Mike.I finally got around to seeing how it was held on and your instructions were half rightWhen you pull the centre bolt off,you screw it back in about 3/4 in but without the thick washer.Then by holding the clutch in your hand,you hit the centre bolt a few times with a hammer and the shock will loosen it off the compressor shaft which is a taperlock fit.Now I have two clutches for sale.PM me if anyone is interested.

 

Well yeah, that will work. THe BFH method is frequently a useable option!

Are you saying that the there was no threaded portion to insert the "puller" bolt? The Yorks I have worked on had them and my service manual shows it. Sounds like they changed something in production at some point.

 

IMHE:
I've noticed the book calls for some qty (talking R12) that is a bit more than cans provide given a fresh recharge. So I've always put somewhat less in the system and found it works very well with 40F air coming out on 80 degree days.

But here's the important part - I check the level by the sight glass and notice there still a few bubbles coming thru using this method. Also, when I break my cars from their slumber and the AC isn't blowing cold, the sight glass is the first thing I check. If I see no bubbles, I throw in a can, and I hear the compressor relay wake up, and the sytem start blowing cold, but doing this by 1-can per shot approach doesn't allow precision fill qty.

It seems in theory, the system would be filled correctly when the bubbles are just gone. Anyone concur with this method??

BTW: Once when investigating home split systems, I came across a device called an "electronic sight glass". I'm not sure, but I believe the theory of operation was to listen to the freon as it approached the TXV for bubbles.