DIY Major on 355. Costs... | FerrariChat

DIY Major on 355. Costs...

Discussion in '348/355' started by spaghetti_jet, Jun 2, 2011.

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  1. spaghetti_jet

    spaghetti_jet Formula Junior

    Jan 5, 2005
    949
    Europa
    Full Name:
    Bob
    #1 spaghetti_jet, Jun 2, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2011
    There has been some discussion about the cost of doing a DIY major in another thread, I’m 2 months into my major on my 1995 F355 M2.7 and so far I have spent EUR 3,748.29 on parts. Which at today’s rate works out to about GBP 3,300 or USD 5,400.

    Here's the list to-date of what I’ve done/bought (bit boring, apologies) but gives an idea what's needed to do to keep my 16 year old 355 in tip-top shape:

    Air filters
    Fuel Filters
    Oil filter
    Engine oil
    Transmission oil
    Power steering fluid
    Coolant
    Radiator drain plug x1 and o rings x2 replace
    Recover and refill A/C system
    Flush & replace brake and clutch fluid
    Drain and replace washer fluid
    Accessory drive belt
    PAS drive belt
    Spark plugs x8
    Cam belts x2
    Cam cover gaskets x2
    Cam cover o rings x6
    Cam shaft oil seals x4
    Camshaft pulley bolt o rings x2
    Camshaft drive pulley o ring seals x2
    Camshaft drive pulley ring nuts x2
    Camshaft drive pulley circlips x4
    Water pump seals x2 (large & small)
    Rubber isolator for evap valves x2
    Thermostat o ring
    Engine front cover gasket
    Front crankshaft oil seal
    Engine rear main o ring seal (between gearbox and block)
    Vacuum hoses throughout engine (approx 2m)
    Copper washers x5 (engine and sump plugs)
    Oil gallery o rings on cylinder head x12
    Exhaust manifold studs x16
    Exhaust manifold nuts x16
    Gearbox inspection plate gasket large x1
    Gearbox inspection plate gasket small x2
    Stainless steel jubilee clips 22-35mm x17
    Stainless steel jubilee clips 55-65mm x 4
    Stainless steel cap nuts x24
    Rebuilt bilstein rear dampers x2
    CV joint gaiters x3
    Rear left hand wheel bearing (came in at an eye watering €800)
    1kg lithium grease (re-greased all bearings)
    Voltage Regulator (alternator)
    Voltage rectifier (alternator)
    Clutch release bearing seals x3 + slider
    Drive shaft triple seals
    Shift shaft oil seal
    ½ Kg Kluber GLK 1301 flywheel grease
    Gold Connector “Supremo” kit
    Deck lid struts x4 (FR+RR)
    New throttle cable
    Hub nuts x4
    Front brake air ducting
    Wheel centre badges x4
    A/C low pressure Schroeder valve
    A/C high pressure Schroeder valve
    Fuel filler splash/drip rubber

    That’s more-or-less it so far. I am in no way complaining, actually the car has only cost me about €300 in maintenance over the last 5 years. So, it averages to around €800/year which I think is very reasonable for a 90’s supercar.

    Jobs still on my to-do list include de-stickying the interior, repaint the wheels (potentially black) and possibly re-trimming the dash in alcantara.

    Doing it yourself is very satisfying, and helps me detach for a few hours from the daily stress and politics of my professional life.

    Sorry for the length of post.

    Ciao, Bob.
     
  2. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,673
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Well, all I can say is ... you did it to yourself, Bob.
     
  3. 355dreamer

    355dreamer F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Apr 3, 2006
    10,476
    DC Metro
    Full Name:
    L.C.
    Wow! Kudos to you for doing it yourself. I would have to say that what you are doing if much more involved than a typical major.
     
  4. UConn Husky

    UConn Husky F1 Rookie

    Nov 11, 2006
    4,425
    CT
    Full Name:
    Jay
    Very nice work!

    One question for you, I see you replaced the rear left (driver side) wheel bearing. What was your symptom that it needed to be replaced? I'm chasing down a noise in that area and am wondering if it's a bearing, but the wheel is rock solid, can't wiggle it at all when it's in the air.
     
  5. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

    Feb 6, 2009
    34,789
    Ontario, Canada
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Great work
     
  6. spaghetti_jet

    spaghetti_jet Formula Junior

    Jan 5, 2005
    949
    Europa
    Full Name:
    Bob
    #6 spaghetti_jet, Jun 3, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    thanks for the positive comments guys.

    Regarding the wheel bearing, the symptoms were low droaning, classic bearing rumble.

    It was a complete failiure, which I feel was entirely my own fault. I had previously changed a CV gaitor boot and due to work/time pressure I simply reused the hub nut. I knew at the time it was wrong and fully intended to put a new one on ASAP etc (they only cost €7). Anyway, I forgot about it and it undid itself. It's on the right hand rear, which means the tendency is to undo by itself. With the hub nut loose the bearing promptly came apart. The wheel had plenty of play. The race is knackered, in the pic below you can see the crevices in the track.

    One thing I did notice was that the grease was completely waxed and was not offering any lubrication whatsoever. For this reason I have regreased the other wheel bearings and replaced all hub nuts for new.

    EDIT: meant to say, that on a set-up like this, I would have put a left hand thread on the RHR hub. Plenty of vehicles do this and considering how much the bearing hub must have cost to tool and make I can't see why they didn't put a LH thread there!
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  7. UConn Husky

    UConn Husky F1 Rookie

    Nov 11, 2006
    4,425
    CT
    Full Name:
    Jay
    Excellent detail, thanks!!!!
     
  8. fmech

    fmech Rookie
    BANNED

    Apr 27, 2011
    30
    how many miles this 355 have ?
    just curious
     
  9. spaghetti_jet

    spaghetti_jet Formula Junior

    Jan 5, 2005
    949
    Europa
    Full Name:
    Bob
    It's done 50,000km. But it's not a mileage thing. Mechanically the metal parts are in tip-top shape. The main issues are dried-up seals, perished rubbers, cracked hoses, grease which has dried to wax etc. etc. After all, the car's 16 years old.

    I had at least 2 leaking oil seals, maybe more, but there was so much oil & muck all over the place I just elected to change everything.

    I've got stacks of pics, I post some up when I get some time...
     
  10. mseals

    mseals Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Sep 9, 2007
    24,468
    Kuwait
    Full Name:
    Mike Seals
    Really looking forward to the photos...

    Mike
     
  11. saw1998

    saw1998 F1 Veteran

    Jun 8, 2008
    8,237
    San Antonio, Texas
    Full Name:
    Scott
    #11 saw1998, Jun 26, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2011
    Bob:

    It's like looking in a mirror. I am the exact same way when I do mechanical work. I replace every washer, seal, nut, plug, etc. I also try to R&R everything. I figure since I already have it apart and I'm in there, I might as well.... The only thing that really scares me is tranny work. Although I did do some drilling on my 308 ZF 5 speed box to make the 1-2 shift easier. It worked like a charm, but kind of scary to perform.

    Good luck and PLEASE keep us apprised.

    Best,


    Scott



    Quick questions. Why did you just rebuild the rear dampers (were they leaking oil)? Do you feel the rebuilt rears will causes a disparity with the non-rebuilt fronts and the ECU?
     
  12. dakkon

    dakkon Karting

    Oct 19, 2010
    61
    if your bearing is on it's way out, but not to the point where it is disintegrating inside " i.e. the wiggle test", you can buy one of these
    http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html

    take the wheel off, remove the caliper and rotor, put the wheel back on. Have someone rotate the wheel for you. put yourself under the car, with the needle end of the stethoscope on the bearing hub, just outside of the bearing. If you hear any kind of grinding while the bearing is being rotated, there are 2 options.

    1) grease the bearing, often times the grease in the bearings will "wear out" just like spaghetti_jet described his grease turning to "wax". Simply greasing the bearing will add lubrication and quite the bearing down a LOT.

    2) if the greasing of the bearing does not help much, you have cough a bad bearing before any further damage is done.


    if you don't want to go to harbor freight, and buy the stethoscope, you can also use a screw driver, and place the handle firmly against your ear. you need to create a sound short directly to your ear one way or another.


    In the Navy, we would take "sound cuts" of all the bearings in the motors we were responsible for... similar to what i am telling you to do, the only difference being we had a 5k$ computer that would digitally record the sound, and do an analysis on each bearings sound to tell us if there was any change.

    With the scope, you can check any bearing, from a water pump bearing to a wheel bearing.

    Good luck, i hope this helps.
     
  13. stevew3765

    stevew3765 Formula Junior

    Oct 27, 2012
    716
    Tulsa, Oklahoma USA
    Full Name:
    Steve Wool
    Mind blown smooth off!
     
  14. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 27, 2005
    4,367
    VA
    I think wheel bearing grease x4 just got added to the winter laundry list.
     

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