How do I set up the fuel injection system

I have a Euro 1987 Testarossa, KE Jetronic, no lambda sensors, no O2 sensors, no cats and no warm-up regulator....

I posted earlier about my creeping idle speed.
I just spent an hour or so at a main dealer and their chief (from Maranello) mechanic took a look at my car.
Briefly he reduced the idle speed by adjusting the bypass screw. It did the job but noted that the screws were fully in.
He suggested that the system needs setting up from fresh.
Also the engine was probably running rich just from the smell of the exhaust.

Knowing that I have been through the system fully and confirmed that there are no leaks I am tending to think he is correct that the system needs setting up from square one.

I have just spent about 2 hours going through the manual and I am unsure how to go about this. I can understand the CO2 and air bypass parts. There are lots of instruction on how to set up the individual parts but nothing on how to set up things together and in the right order.

Does someone have a blow by blow list of how to set up the fuel injection system?
I am happy with doing the work just not sure on the order of what to do and what the limits are.

Can any one help?


I learnt something new as well that is not detailed in the WSM as far as I can see. The vacuum limiting device is adjustable. I have no idea how to set this up
Again anyone adjusted this before and the procedure to set it up? Seems this bit is trial and error

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You are right Steve, my manual shows the warm up regulators and does not mention my specific car so I was not aware of the missing pages. Is it possible to get these pages or the booklet you mentioned?

I am off to visit the thread you mentioned. Thanks for the help

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Jeff I did not make myself clear.

I was a guest at a main dealer to try out the new 458 and Cali.
I was invited also to receive a safety check, a suspension alignment check, to be fed and watered all day and watch the Spanish Grand Prix qualifying all for FREE!!!!! Yes FREE

During the free safety check I mentioned to the chief mechanic that I had an idle speed that wandered up to 1400 when the engine got to full soaked operating temperature. He noted as I did, that the engine seemed to be running rich from the smell from the exhaust. He wound in the bypass screws in an attempt to reduce the idle which worked. Unfortunately to get a reliable 1000 RPM the screws were fully in. We both knew this is not correct and that the system needs to be set up. However, what he did was right to get me home and to point me in the right direction for a fix. He left me with the option to fix it myself or to book the car in to be fixed by them.

This thread was an attempt to start the fix. Unfortunately, and as correctly deduced by Steve, my manual does not correctly cover my car. My car has no warm up regulator (and other parts compared to a US model) and so I am a little unsure how to set it up.

Here is my plan, but feel free to shout out if you think I am wrong….

1) Check and note the present CO levels in the exhaust
2) Check / measure / compare plenum vacuum levels with manometer
3) Check all pipes and hoses for leaks
4) Check smooth operation and closure of the throttle plate
5) Rebuild top of engine
6) Adjust mixture to get CO levels in spec
7) set correct idle with by-pass screws and check / measure / compare plenum vacuum levels with manometer
8) check / adjust mechanical balance of throttle controls

Take a couple of beers or start again

In fact dont just feel free, please add in anything relevant. It may or may not help me, but at the end of the day there is a little bit more information to help others that may have the same or similar problems

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I have just re-read Steves thread 4 again, this time a little more carefully

So after checking the functioning of the throttle plate, auxiliary air valve and vacuum limiting device and that there are no air leaks from pipes and rubber fittings I can move on to adjust things to Steves settings.

I conclude that getting condition 1 is essentially setting the correct "idle position" for the throttle plates.
Once this is set adjust the idle speed to 1000 with the bypass screws and then adjust fuel / air mixture to reach an exhaust CO value of 1% to 1.5%.
At all times the plenums vacuum should be equal.

Have I got that right??

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One more question...
If I run the engine and press the brake pedal while I turn off the engine should I maintain a power assisted brake? If so how many presses should I get before vacuum (power assistance) is lost?

Thanks

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Well here is where I am up to:.........
I have found a leak in the rubber gasket that fits between the RHS plenum and the throttle body. Fixed.....
The idle switch as part of the RHS throttle body is stopping the RHS throttle from returning to idle properly. Fixed but ready to re-adjust once the idle mix is set.

I have yet to check that the brake servo has no leaks although I have tested the pipe from front to back for leaks. so far passed.

Tomorrow, start the rascal up and set up the system and balance it.
Once balanced I will set the idle mixture. A local garage has offered to provide me with a CO and HC test. I guess I am buying the beers though

So far so good....

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Well she is up and running well again.

I got the sides balanced and now my two air by-pass screws are about 1.5 turns out.

I made myself a manometer to help with the task. Boy this is the best bit of home made gear I have ever used. It makes it a really simple task to balance and set up the banks of cylinders.

It consists of some water in two tubes with about 9 inches of airspace above the water. The engine sucks on this airspace. The side that shows the largest drop has the greater vacuum. All I needed to do was to keep the levels the same. The engine pulled the water level down to about the 4th or 5th calibrated mark

I tried to set the CO by adjusting the mixture. However, I suspect that my gas analyser has seen better days. It was not until I had weakened the mixtures so much that the engine started hunted that I realised my meter was not changing reading properly. Good job I noted the original setting. I think I turned the mixture screws out by about 45 degrees by the time I got it to hunt. I have left them at around 3-5 degrees anticlockwise. I will leave it like this to go to my test station for a first attempt. She is running okay so I am not too unduly worried it is too weak as I had black plugs before

Here are some pics of my (fully calibrated and expensive ) manometer and test gear.

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I guess that your Rube is the equivalent of our Heath Robinson
see http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=heath+robinson&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&prmd=ivnso&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ALrrTZaVM4yzhAeqsrG6Bg&ved=0CDYQsAQ&biw=1378&bih=1064 for a laugh.

I tried everywhere to get a proper mercury manometer but the only ones I could find were to test out household gas pressure not what I wanted so my expensive bit of kit was specially fashioned out of the best piece of Black Forest Pine and the best quality fish tank pipe that money can buy

It worked perfectly. I guess more accurately than a mercury manometer as well, so I am a happy TR owner and have another skill on my Ferrari owners CV

I think I may go into production, what do you think????

Yeah okay perhaps not

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Hi Louis, if you find a copy could you send me one as well, I have been looking for the last 3 or 4 years with no luck

 

Is that the ebay number Louis as I cant find it on the ebay site?
My car has no Lambda sensors so it might be the right one for me.

Thanks

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