Hi, Here´s what happens with my 95 F355. Ive been using it daily for the last week and everything was ok. Today I used it again. I start the car and let the water reach 140 F and I start driving. I always use the car just touching slightly the gas pedal and not going beyond 3000 rpm until every fluid gets to its temperature. So thats what I did today but sometimes it was as if the car had lag. I pushed the pedal a bit more and nothing happened until suddendly BAM! it pushes normally. When the car was up to temperature eveything ran fine. I head to the highway and start cruising at 130 mph during 30 miles aproximately -> everything perfect. I even push it a bit more and reach 170 mph, again everything like a dream. I get to my girlfriends house and stop the car, wait for 5 minutes (women being late, how strange huh). I pick her up and start the car, water temp was around 208º F, fans work and it goes down to 194 F. Its in this situation when the car bogs a lot and when running, the same thing as when it was cold happens. I push the gas pedal and it has no response until bang! it starts going. If I slightly push the throttle in neutral it bogs. However, if the water temp is at 185 F I don´t have this problem, if I slightly touch the gas pedal, it responds perfectly. Also, when it bogs I can hear a squeaking sound, like coming from the belt area, like if the alternator belt was a bit loose( I´ll check it tomorrow but its not likely to be loose). The car has a tubi exhaust, test pipes (completely decatted) and K&N filters. Already cleaned MAFs by the way. Any Ideas?
Whats exactly vapor lock? how does that get fixed? I recently took out the injectors to get them professionally cleaned. Maybe this has something to do with it?
When was the last time you checked the spark plugs. I had the same issues then I changed the spark plugs & the O2 sensors. The car performed the same hot as cold, smoothly.
Sparkplugs are 1 year old and have like 3000 miles on them. What makes me crazy is that it bogs when water is 190 F or above like in city traffic conditions. If it were the 02 sensors wouldn´t the car hesitate at any rpm? And wouldn´t a CEL show?
I had oil on my plugs due to a leaking head cover gasket. So my car was consuming oil on a regular basis. Does yours?
The SRI gold connector is on its way right now. When this cars work fine they´re the best in the entire world but when they start Bit*****... My goodness!
Any "check engine" lights? Is the "check engine" self test function work when you start the car, that is it comes on when you start, then goes off a short time later?
Yes all lights work properly and there is no CEL when all this happens. I wished there was a CEL, at least that way I would know what would be wrong. Is there some way to check the ignition wires, coil packs or o2 sensors? apart from buying new ones and trying them I mean Some resistance values they should show or something?
Update: Today I took the mafs out again. I took out the metal mesh on them and inspected the sensor itself, now with sunlight instead of the flashlight I used yesterday afternoon. The mafs weren´t as clean as I thought, sprayed some contact cleaner on it and some dirt dissolved. I also carefully wiped it with a cotton piece soaked in contact cleaner and now the film in the maf is shiny. I won´t be able to drive the car today so i´ll test it tomorrow and see if that was the problem. Really not sure about it because it wasn´t extremely dirty but figers crossed.
What about water temp sensor that goes to the ecu? Could it be bad and sending signal to computer to enrichen or lean out the fuel? Since it seems to be temperture related, you might want to check it out.
All the lights in the dashboard work properly, When turning the key they light and when I start the car they turn off. Whats SDECU? I thought of it. If tomorrow when I try the car the problem isn´t solved with the mafs cleaning I did today I will buy the sensor on monday and replace it.
Before you start randomly throwing parts at the car, deal with the connectors. Once the connections are a known, THEN replace parts that fall out of spec. The other equation to factor in these days is the in-tank fuel componets melting. These days, every spring after the first run or two the fuel filters should be removed, the ends covered with your fingers, shaken up and poured out backwards over a clean paper towel. If there is a problem..... you will surely see it by doing this! Catching it before it plugs the injectors and melts a piston justifies the effort. Thank the Feds and their alcohol fuel for this.
Dave I´ll install the connectors as soon as I get them. I told Niki I was going to install just the ones that are a bit corroded first and then the rest in the winter when I won´t use the car so much but I think I´m going to install them all of them now. By the way I live in Spain so I don´t know if those fuel issues can apply here. I´ve started the car now and let it get to temperature, it seems like its gotten a bit better. Also I´ve done a little experiment. Don´t know it it can be useful info but anyways. I have a timing light gun (cheap one, used it for a nissan I had) and I thought that I could check the ignition wires with it. So i connected the timing gun while the car was running and went checking each wire with it. In the 1-4 bank, there were two wires where the light flashed a bit slowly, in the other two the light flashed really quickly. On the bank 5-8 the light flashed really slowly or it even didn´t flash at all (I think this may be due to the timing gun rather than the wire not working at all) Does this tell you something? Tomorrow or maybe later tonight I´ll get the ignition wires out. What should I check with the multimeter. Also, can I check the ignition coils somehow? some resistance values or something? The car is 29800 miles, I forgot to mention it.
Today I checked the crank sensor cables and connectors and they were ok. I also checked the ignition wires´ resistance and this is what I got: 1: 6.20 Kohms 2: 6.14 3: 6.14 4: 6.21 5: 6.14 6: 6 7: 6.20 8: 6.19 On the cables the plug that goes into the coils has a 1 Kohm mark and the part that goes into the sparkplug 5Kohms... should my wires read 5 Kohms instead of 6.XX ??? By the way just a very stupid question, how are the cylinder numbers arranged??? 1-2-3-4 1-2-3-4 timing or timing ???? 8-7-6-5 5-6-7-8 My wires are plugged in the coils assuming the cylinder arrangement is like in the left option.
Passenger side from close to the passenger to the rear of the car: 1,2,3,4 Drivers side from the rear of the car towards the driver: 5,6,7,8
I don't think that you have a problem with the resistance of the cables. The values marked on them are an indication of how many ohms/metre or whatever. As for the numbering and firing order of the cylinders: Numbering: Standing behind the car and looking at the engine (you are at the flywheel end). Cylinder #1 is the forwardmost one on the right hand side. Count up moving in a "U" shape clockwise, finishing with #8 as the forwardmost one on the left hand side. Firing order: 1-5-3-7-4-8-2-6. Good luck.
Thanks guys I thought the wires on de 5-8 bank were plugged in the wrong place. I´ve tried the car today, definately this problem is not temperature related because it´s also showed up when the car was cold. It just does it when I Slightly push the throttle, in fact, the way it does it reminds me of when I had unsynchronized throttle bodies. Before anything of this happened I took the airboxes out and cleaned the butterflies (I was going to take the injectors out for professional cleaning). The butterflies were quite dirty. Is it possible that after cleaning the butterflies they might have slightly disadjusted? Let me explain: The no. 1 idle is used to adjust the vaccuum in each body (by letting some air in I am guessing) right? As when the throttle bodies were synchronized, they were all covered in dirt (those needles too), wouldn´t it be possible that by cleaning them now more air passed through those needles due to dirt not being there anymore and therefore disadjusting all the setup? Image Unavailable, Please Login
UPDATE: Just bought a manometer to check the balancing of the throttles. Checked the FPR today, took the vaccuum line and I didn´t smell any scent of gasoline, so I guess they´re ok. Also checked the TPS with the method of JM3 ( http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=206581&highlight=TPS ) and TARAAAAA! they´re out of spec. Left tps reads 592 mV and right 477 mV which is a diference of 115. According to the manual it should be between 400-600 mV but the difference between them no more than 100mv (actually the manual also says no more than 80mV at some point ) I´m going to wait till I receive the manometer to check the balance and then I will adjust the tps. Will keep this thread updated. By the way, when turning the key to energize the system to read the voltage of the TPS I noticed that the idle control valves started working but they didn´t stop until I took the key out. Is this ok? Cheers
UPDATE: Today I tried to adjust the TPS so they were almost among the same values. After some testing I came to one conclusion: Either the throttle rods and adjusting screws are really messed up or the left TPS is shot. I meassured the mV on each TPS. The right one was around 450mV and after pressing the gas pedal and releasing it it remained around that value. The left TPS was set at 500mV, as soon as I pressed the gas pedal and released it, the value rised up to 610 mV (out of range). When slightly pressing the gas the mV was crazy and very distant from the values of the right one. When pressing gas pedal to about 1/4 or more the mV values of the L&R tps were about the same, so I think I finally discovered the problem.
Let me get this straight. You drove the car 170mph and then turned it off at your destination? I know what's wrong with the car: the driver. Unless you are on the autobahn, enjoy jail when you get caught.
Lighten up man, the guy lives in Spain where they're not hung up on underpants shots, and pseudo sexual puritanical scandals, and can actually drive the car as fast as he'd like.
